FAQ's: Tank & Tankless Water Heater Questions Only. *Read This Post First.*

[Plumber2000]

Hello Members and Guests.

This topic pertains to only tank type and tank less water heaters only. All Gas or Electric water heater questions accepted. All other types of water heating systems should be posted in the correct forum topics.

***This topic does not pertain to "BOILER" water heaters. Whether the boiler is or is not used for room/space heating, boiler type water heater questions should be posted in the "Boilers - Steam & Hot Water Systems" topic.

"Boilers - Steam & Hot Water Systems" topic here:
http://forum.doityourself.com/forumdisplay.php?s=&daysprune=&f=128

This thread contains answers to frequently asked gas or electric tank type water heater questions only. This thread is meant to be a quick answer to tank and/or tank less water heater problems, only an immediate resource for many common problems.

If you need additional advice and/or clarification of the advice given on this page, please post a "new question" so we may assist you better.

Please indicate important details as to the type of water heater, gas or electric, what brand of water heater you have and any other specific details that may be important. Help us help you.

Electric water heater not heating or water is cold?
Water Heater leaks?
Water Heater Making Noises?

Electric water heater not heating or is cold?

Thermostats not working to maintain water temperature and/or keeps tripping the electrical circuit after reseting?

Replace both Upper Stat and Lower Stats. Turn electrical power off before working on heater!

Dip Tube broken?

The Dip Tube is on the inlet side of the heater, pull and check. Replace if broken. Replace if there is a crack in it or it has holes, etc. or is no longer physically there.

A broken and or defective dip tube symptoms. Usually will cause the hot water to run out quickly. Warm will turn warm and or cold quickly.

DIP TUBES:

http://img23.photobucket.com/albums/v70/DUNBAR/DIP_TUBES.jpg

Electric water heater elements not working? Refer to this link.
http://images.orgill.com/200x200/76169.jpg

Testing elements with an ohm meter.
CAUTION:
Be sure electrical power is turned off before testing! Replace burned out elements.

Breaker tripping at power panel?

Reset breaker at the main electrical panel. If an electrical problem persists, could be the bottom element is burner and/or shorted out and/or there is an electrical problem within the electrical power supply system. *An electrician may be needed to locate and correct any problems with the electrical power supplied to the water heater.

CAUTION:
The electrical power supplied to an electric water heater is 220 to 240+ volts! If you are not highly qualified to do electrical work, hire a professional.

Water Heater Leaks?

Leaking at connections on top of water heater

Tighten up and/or replace flex connectors on water heater.

Leaking from bottom of heater

Time to replace the water heater.

Leaks through drain valve at bottom of heater

Close faucet/spigot tightly and/or have it replaced and/or do-it-yourself.

Leaks through T&P Valve
Replace Valve

Thermostats overheating, replace both upper and lower stats on an electric water heater. Doing so ensures the problem is resolved the first time.

T&P valve is bad and/or leaking? Replace it with a new one.

Thermo Expansion is taking place, install a thermo expansion tank.

Water Heater Makes Noises?
Refer to Water Heater Draining & Flushing Information.
Copy and re paste link address below into browser address bar

WATER HEATER DRAINING AND FLUSHING INFO:
http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=159797

Tank less Water Heater Links & Information
See Link Address Below

http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=164130

Sharp Advice. TCB4U2B2B Business Management Services.
Web Site Host, Moderator Hiring Agent, Gas Appliances Topic Moderator, Multiple Forums Moderator & Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics Technician.

Personal Driving Safety Reminder: Buckle Up & Drive Safely.
"The Life You Save, May Be Your Own."

Edited & Updated October 3, 2006

[Plumber2000]

Bradford White Water Heater 1-800-334-3393
http://www.bradfordwhite.com/

Anodes:
http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pa...ter-anodes.html

TANKLESS WATER HEATER HELP LINK:
http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?threadid=147262

WATER HEATER DRAINING AND FLUSHING INFO:
http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?threadid=134483

In-sink-erator 1-800-558-5700
http://www.insinkerator.com/

Web Site Host, Moderator Hiring Agent, Gas Appliances Topic Moderator, Multiple Forums Moderator & Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics Technician.

Personal Driving Safety Reminder: Buckle Up & Drive Safely.
"The Life You Save, May Be Your Own."

Edited & Updated October 3, 2006

[Sharp Advice]

Below is basic help information pertaining to tank type water heaters. The information is rewritten in easy to understand language. Taken from multiple sources and based upon basic appliance diagnostic services.

It is highly suggested checking the basics before assuming there is a mechanical problem or part failure before attempting any repairs. Read your owners manual for additional brand specific information and instructions.

Safety Concerns:

If you smell gas, do not try to light the water heater or any appliances in that area. Do not turn on or turn off any electrical switch. Immediately contact your gas supplier. If you cannot contact the gas supplier, call the local fire department.

Do not use or store gasoline, use flammable liquids or any products which produce flammable vapors near any gas appliance.

Tank Type Water Heater Safety Awareness:

Water heaters are one of the gas appliances that are all to often overlooked on the maintenance issue. They are almost always installed in a location obstructed from plain view by intent. We forget they are there, as they provide thousands of gallons of hot water over the life of the tank.

By design, tank type units draw in large amounts of combustion air from the underside of the tank. In doing so, lint and dust become collected in the area around the base of the tank and inside the burner compartment. Lint, dust, pet hairs, etc. being well aerated and dry, makes it a highly flammable material.

Part of every spring cleaning activity, water heaters should be inspected for proper operation and cleanliness around the area. Failure to do so, the problems associated with the units can become potentially hazardous to both a persons property and health.

Many city, county and state codes require a water heater to be raised 18 inches or more above the floor level, when installed inside areas of the home. Such areas can be but are not limited to basements and garages.

Often times a noise is associated with one of the early warning signs of troubles. A sputtering or popping noise. The sputtering or popping type noise is most likely caused by restricted burner ports on the round burner head.

Simple cleaning to remove accumulated lint and dust cures this problem. The remainder of the time a popping or sputtering noise isn't a good sign.

Normal dust and lint have restricted the burner ports and or secondary air shutter. Many times some or all of the flames that should be burning around the burner head are actually burning within the air shutter opening beneath the burner head. Visual signs of this condition can be verified. Corrective actions then need to be taken immediately.

The secondary air shutter opening is located directly beneath the burner head. There should never be flames there. If there are flames there while the burner is on, the burner head is restricted and must be cleared.

Removal of the entire burner assembly is required, cleaning the burner head and reinstalling it cures the problem. Unless it is already to late and SOOT has formed.

Formation of soot and or carbon deposits in the firebox. Lack of air. Clogged flue. Orifice too large. Defective thermostat control or defective internal gas regulator. Lack of air. Heater installed in a confined space. Burner flame yellowed and burning improperly.

Problems which cause flame distortion, complete gas combustion will not take place and black soot and carbon will form. These are not a conditions the DoItYourself person should attempt to correct. If soot is present inside the firebox, get professional help from your gas utility or a licensed plumber.

Complete combustion is not solely dependent upon a clean burner and burner compartment. Other factors can cause soot to form. Inside the flue of the tank is a spiral baffle. It's purpose is to accurately control the escape of the heat produced by the gas combustion process. These internal baffles sometimes deteriorate and may partially or fully collapse.

A collapsed or restrictive baffle will drastically restrict the up wards flow of flue gas and fumes. In doing so, it distorts the natural flame design and up wards flow of hot fumes. Which causes incomplete combustion which in turn causes toxic fumes {CO} and soot.

Another factor that can and does cause soot, is restricted primary air. The enclosure the water heater is in must be properly ventilated. A restricted air enclosure around the tank or any gas appliance, can cause incomplete combustion and smothering flames leading to soot formations. Refer to combustion air below.

Water inside the firebox. If this condition exists, the tank has a water leak either in the firebox itself or the vent flue within the tank. Tank replacement is suggested.

>>>CAUTIONS:<<<
Hydrogen gas can be produced in any hot water heating system that is not used for several weeks. Hydrogen gas is highly flammable and can ignite when exposed to a spark or a flame.

To prevent the possibility of of injury under this condition, run a hot water faucet for several minutes. The sound of hydrogen gas presence in the water will produce a sound of air escaping through the faucet as water begins to flow out. Allow all air to flow out before turning off the faucet.

Soot indicates there is a major problem with the appliance.Evidence of soot on any gas appliance needs to be evaluated to determine the exact cause. The corrective actions and procedures necessary to correct the problem should only be done by a licensed professional.

CLOUDY WATER:
Chances are the tank needs to be flushed. The method and procedures are already posted within this forum. Try flushing the tank and note the results.

Another possibility is the faucet heads. Remove them and clean them. While each is off the faucet, run the hot water to flush the piping system. Allow the hot water to run until it comes out clear. Then reinstall the aerators back onto the faucets.

It's always possible the tank is internally rusted out beyond the ability of flushing the tank & flushing piping lines out to correct the problem. A new tank would then be required.

Other possibilities may be the water supply, which is out of your control. Heating often does slightly change the molecule structure of the water based on the mineral contents within the water.

The piping system and lines within your structure may also be all or part of the problem. Only your licensed plumber would know if the piping system was the direct cause of the problem and or if the tank is the problem.

PERCOLATING - Noises or Noisy Tanks:
Water heaters that make noises or sounds like they are percolating is caused by excessive sediment deposits on the bottom of the tank. The noise is commonly referred to as "percolating."

Which means the heat transfer to the water must pass through a layer of sediment, which causes the water to actually boil close to the bottom of the tank.

Thus the boiling is the method and means used to pass the heat through the sediment to heat the water inside the tank. This also causes a very high concentration of heat at the base of the tank.

To help resolve the problem, tank flushing is required. See the posted topic at the topic of the forums list of questions. Read the tank flushing instructions and flush the tank.

Tank flushing usually but not always resolves the problem. Tanks that have not been flushed yearly may have an excessive amount of sediment which has already baked onto the bottom of the tank.

Older tanks also acquire this problem despite frequent flushing and tanks used in high sediment water supplies. If flushing does not resolve the problem, tank replacement is the only solution.

TANK FLUSHING REASONS:
It is often recommended and also a good idea to FLUSH a water heater tank yearly. The reasoning behind this maintenance procedure is to flush out sediment and rust particles that will naturally settle and accumulate on the bottom of the tank.

Sediment is found within almost all supplies of water more to some degree. Rust comes from the tanks interior, do to normal tank aging, iron pipes within the houses own water piping system, those of the main water supply from the streets piping system and other sources, depending on the water supply.

TANK FLUSHING METHOD:
To successfully accomplish this task, simply attach a common garden hose to the water heaters faucet. To flush the tank, there is no need to turn off the gas. Leave the inlet water supply valve on.

Simply attach the garden hose to the faucet or spigot, place the other end in a location where hot water will not cause damage and simply open the tanks faucet valve.

Allow the existing hot water to flow out of the hoses end until it does so cleanly and clearly. Depending upon the amount of rust, sediment and debris inside the tank, this process may take less than one minute or several minutes to accomplish.

Once this is accomplished and your satisfied the exiting water is flowing cleanly, close the tanks faucet valve. Remove the garden hose from the faucet or spigot.

SIZZLING SOUNDS:
That sizzling sound may be an early indication of a pin hole leak in the tank. To determine if that is so, turn the thermostat down to it's lowest temperature setting for now.

Remove the decorative outer cover first. Than remove the inner firebox cover. Use caution. The metal may be hot but not likely if the outlet water is cold.

Look inside the firebox from a distance. You are looking for rust spots, rust scales or any such indications of such. If any are present, water is entering the firebox via a pin hole in the tank.

Depending upon the age of the tank, more than 10 years, likely there is an internal water leak in the tank. If the tank is less than 10 years old and you have the warranty to prove such, contact the mfg or a plumbing agent whom does warranty services for the brand.

If no warranty is available or the tank is out of warranty, etc, and rust, scale is evident, time for tank replacement. If no evidence is present, you can move back at arms length, turn up the T Stat to it's highest setting and allow the burner to fire up.

Shortly there after water droplets should be visible dropping down onto the burner. If so, the tank will need to be replaced. If no water droplets are present after 10 minutes, tanks okay.

COMBUSTION AIR:
The formula for calculating the required amount of intake air is a minimum of 1 square inch of intake air per 1,000 Btu's of appliance rating. Which means there must be 1 square inch of combustion air for each 1,000 Btu's. Check the appliance rating plate.

Half of the total square inches must be in the ceiling or from 12 inches below the ceiling. The other half down at the base of the wall or 12 inches above the floor level. None of this air can come from within the living area of the home.

Each half of the half has to be equally spaced on either side. This rule applies to appliance in closets and inclosure's. Attics, basements and sheds may have slightly different variations.

The supplied air must be supplied from outside or from either under the house on a raised foundation flooring or from the attic, if there is an attic. At no time should the air be taken from inside the living area. Codes vary. Check those in your area. Contact the local building and safety department in you city, town or local area.

Usually the gas utility company has service persons whom may provide insight and determinations. At other times it will take a plumbing professional, local inspector or building contractor.

CONTROL REPLACEMENT:
To replace the entire control, turn off the incoming water valve. Open any hot water faucet to relieve the water pressure. Turn of the gas supply at the isolation valve where the flex connector is attached to the supply pipe.

Than remove the flex gas inlet line from the control valve. Remove the three lines under the control valve. No need to remove the parts from inside the firebox.

Using a mechanics strap wrench, wrap it around the outside diameter of the control and unscrew it out of the tank. Apply any type of common household oil, motor oil of any type or any type of automotive grease to the threads of the new part and screw it into the same place the old control was removed from.

Reinstall the three lines removed prior. Reconnect the gas flex line. Turn the water inlet valve back on. Open any hot water faucet to bleed out any air from the tank. Close sink faucet when done bleeding out air.

Turn on the gas supply shut off isolation valve on the supply pipe. Check for leaks with soapy water or leak detection soap. Light up the pilot. Turn on the burner. Recheck for leaks under the temperature control unit.

TEMPERATURE - PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE LEAKS:
If the water is coming out of the pressure-temperature valve, chances are that valve has rust and or sediment under the seat of the valves shut off.

Lifting the lever slightly will allow water to come out faster. Doing so may or may not flush out the sediment or rust. Lift the lever only part way not all the way. Just enough to allow water to forcefully flush out and just enough till the water appears clean.

Doing so might clean out the valves seat & washer. Not always but sometimes. If it seems to work, check it several times or the next few days. May or may not totally solve the problem.

If at anytime flushing the valve does not work, valve replacement is the only know solution. Tanking flushing is also recommended. The instructions for tank flushing can be found in a topic above.

The relief valve could be defective. Replacing it could solve the problem. Too much inlet water pressure and or the thermostats water temperature is set too high or there is sediment under the seat of the valve or in the tank.

VENT TESTING:
A venting system not functioning correctly can be highly dangerous. Fumes can & will contain carbon monoxides. The amounts vary. None is acceptable in the living environment once the vent pipe heats up.

If there is suspicions of fumes entering the living area as a result of a blocked and or restricted venting system, it is highly suggested to have a professional test the system.

Most gas companies, natural or propane, do this simple test to ensure public safety. As well as plumbers & installers of water heaters and room/house heating agents, etc.

In order for drafting to take place, the venting system has to have hot gases attempting to escape up the vent pipe. The roof top vent cap does not allow much outside air to enter down the vent pipe.

If the roof top vent cap on the outside rooftop vent pipe is installed correctly, by this I mean not pushed down too much on the exposed pipe end, the cap will do it's job.

Allow hot fumes and gases to escape out to the outside but not allow outside air forced by winds to back flow down the vent pipe.

The down draft divertor cap installed correctly on the top of the water heater will set up on it's legs. The vent pipe onto it. The open space just beneath the cap and that above the water heaters built in flue pipe, is the space where inside air enters to the vent pipe to help dilute the hot escaping gases and fumes.

Once the water heater, a non power vented type, is warmed up after being on for 5 minutes max time, that space should be drawing in and up wards air very close to it.

The test to verify if inside air is being drawn up wards into the space between the water heaters flue and the down drafters cap, is to strike a stick match. Once a flame is established on the match, put the flame close to that open space.

The down draft divertor cap installed correctly on the top of the water heater will set up on it's legs. The vent pipe onto it. The open space just beneath the cap and that above the water heaters built in flue pipe, is the space where inside air enters to the vent pipe to help dilute the hot escaping gases and fumes.

Once the water heater, a non power vented type, is warmed up after being on for 5 minutes max time, that space should be drawing in and up wards air very close to it.

The test to verify if inside air is being drawn up wards into the space between the water heaters flue and the down drafters cap, the method is to use a stick match. Once a flame is established on the match, put the flame close to that open space.

Allow the flames to from the match to be drawn toward the flow of air without being so close the air snuffs the match. The match flames should tilt in wards to wards the cap.

This simple test shows the air flow direction. The flames can be allowed to burn down the match stick without going out until the flame gets close to your fingers.

If the reverse happens in the test, the flames snuff out, the match may be too close and or too far. If the match is held in the close to area but not inside the area space and the flames snuff out or point away from the space, the venting system is defective.

The defect may be caused by several conditions. Most commonly is an incorrectly installed vent cap on the outside vent pipe. As noted in detail above. The other may be a clogged, bent, damaged and or somehow restricted venting pipe.

In rare but possible instances, an interior inside the room and or closet space the appliance is in can cause a reverse venting effect. Professional help is highly suggested.

T-STAT TEST:
A quick test of the thermostat may be to remove the temp knob. Rotate the key point the knob is attached to. Use your fingers. Turn it clockwise to it's max amount. The burner should fire up. If not, the thermostat may have already heated the water to it's maximum or recently turned off.

If the pilot light is not on or goes out repeatedly or occasionally, the information provided below may help to determine the problem and help to resolve it.

REPLACING A THERMOCOUPLE:
Usually the pilot will go out if a thermocouple is defective. Usually but not always. Replacing the thermocouple may correct the problem of pilot outages.

If the pilot is present on, allow time for the T-Couple to cool. About 15 minutes. You should hear a click shortly after the pilot flame goes out. The click is a tiny sound so you must listen carefully.

After 15 minutes attempt to relight the pilot. Rotate the top selection knob to PILOT. Depress the red button and hold it down while lighting the pilot. Continue to hold that red button down for 1 full minute.

After that 1 minute time has passed, release the red button. The pilot flame should remain on. If not, the T-Couple is defective and must be replaced.

If replacing the T-Couple does not resolve the pilot outage problem, replacing the magneto may be required. Replacing the mag and the T-couple does not correct the problem, the thermostat is defective.

MAGNETO REPLACEMENT:
Replacing this part is not difficult. The magneto is the part the threaded end of the thermocouple screws into. It's located on the control valve. Left side under the temp adjustment dial.

The magneto is the part the threaded end of the thermocouple screws into. It's located on the control valve. Left side under the temp adjustment dial. Should have a red cap on it.

The part threads out of the control. Replacement is easy. Use a light amount of tension when tightening in the new part. Do not apply any thread compound to the threads. They must be grounded to the control. Thread compound will reduce metal to metal contact.

PILOT LIGHTING INSTRUCTIONS:
The correct procedure is to always use EXTREME caution at all times. For personal safety, turn the selector knob to the "OFF" position and wait 5 minutes.

The pilot assembly will be at the end of the aluminum pilot tube exiting the gas control valve. The correct place to light the pilot, will be at the very top of the assembly up inside the firebox.

After the pilot lights, continue to hold that reset button down for about 45 to 60 seconds or so, then release it. The pilot flame should remain "ON." If the pilot flame remains on, stand back at arms length. Rotate the selector knob to the "ON" position.

The control knob on the top of the thermostat control will have a "Pilot" position. Turning that round control knob to this position will allow you to lite the pilot while depressing the "Red" button.

The "Red" reset button must be held down in the depressed position for at least 60 seconds before releasing it. If the pilot remains ON, turn the control knob to the "ON" position and the main burner should fire up.

If the main burner does not light up, raise the thermostats temperature to maximum to allow the burner to light up and then lower it to your desired temperature.

NO PILOT GAS PROBLEMS:
The most common reason why pilot gas will not come out of the pilot orifice in the burner assembly has rust and corrosion.

Gas appliances left unused in vacation homes etc will buildup rust and corrosion in the pilot assembly. To correct this type of problem, first remove the pilot tube from the control.

The tube is the thin aluminum tube on the right hand side under the control. Once it is removed, turn the control to the pilot position and depress the red reset button for 1 or 2 seconds.

Doing this is to insure that pilot gas is in fact coming out of the control and is turned on at the inlet supply pipe. If gas does come out, the pilot assembly is clogged up.

The entire burner assembly will then have to be removed, the pilot assembly disassembled and cleaned out, reassembled and the entire burner assembly reinstalled back into the firebox.

Be sure to reinstall the burner assembly exactly as it current is. Burner assembly must be level and the leading edge at the front of the burner installed into the flange in the lower pan in the firebox.

Once all this is accomplished, soap test for minor gas leaks all the connection points you disassembled. The pilot must be on to leak test the pilot tubing connection and the burner must be on to test the burner tube.

If any of the repairs, methods, procedures is or appears to be more difficult than you care to attempt, some gas supply companies provide these services. Basic maintenance procedures are given in the manufacturers provided owners manual and on the labels attached to the appliance.

Gas Appliances Forum Topic:
http://forum.doityourself.com/forumdisplay.php?f=65

Tank less Water Heater Information:
http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=147262

Anodes:
http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pa...ter-anodes.html
http://www.waterheaterrescue.com

DIY'S Water Heating Pages:
http://doityourself.com/waterheater/index.shtml

How To Determine Water Leakage Exists In House Piping Exists:
http://forum.doityourself.com/showt...threadid=164130

DIY'S Water Heating Pages:
http://doityourself.com/waterheater/index.shtml

Water Heater Help Information:
http://forum.doityourself.com/showt...6740#post556740

Additional information and links are provided in the google ads and the "Related Links" to the right. >>>

The above helpful information will be edited and/or updated as needed.

Check back often.

Regardless of your personal choice, each product has to be selected by your individual selection process, needs, requirements and price range.

In my personal option, there isn't any one product better than the other. They all perform equally well and all require parts and service sometime during the products life expectancy and ownership. Select the one of your choice, install it, use it and maintain it well.

Always consider the warranties and future service needs for any major appliances your considering to purchase. Price isn't always the best guide for long term appliance investments.

Sharp Advice. TCB4U2B2B Business Management Services.
Web Site Host, Moderator Hiring Agent, Gas Appliances Topic Moderator, Multiple Forums Moderator & Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics Technician.

Personal Driving Safety Reminder: Buckle Up & Drive Safely.
"The Life You Save, May Be Your Own."

Edited & Updated October 3, 2006

[Sharp Advice]

Topics Covered:
Tank Flushing and Draining.
Explanation of The Terms.
Information and Procedures To Accomplish The Task.

Safety Warnings:
Follow all manufacturers instructions.
Draining Requires Turning Off The Appliance First.
Be aware that HOT water can cause personal injuries and damage to surrounding areas.

Within this forum there are often questions asked, references made to and replies posted regarding either FLUSHING of a water heater tank or the DRAINING a water heater tank.

There are differences between draining and flushing and often the terms are accidentally interchanged and or used incorrectly. Draining refers to emptying the tank while flushing refers to removing debris from within the tank.

TANK DRAINING PROCEDURE:
At times it may become necessary to drain {empty} the water heater tank for various reasons. Replacing the tank with a new tank, moving the tanks current location to another location, installing replacement parts to the current tank, etc.

If you have a need to do so, the very first step is to turn OFF the gas or electric supply to the tank! Without water in the tank, the temperature sensing element or elements will cool off, do to the lack of hot water.

Without water in the tank, it is essential to turn off the energy source prior to draining the tank. Failure to do so will cause permanent damage to the control, burner, electrical elements, tank and any other parts.

Second step in the draining process's to turn OFF the incoming water supply. The COLD water inlet supply valve will be on the inlet water pipe located on the right side of the tank at the top.

The valve may be one of two commonly used varieties. A gate valve, which has a round knob that is turned in wards {clockwise} until fully seated in the closed position.

The other type is the newer ball valve variety. This valve will have a lever that is turned so the lever handle is no longer parallel to the pipe. Instead, the lever handle will be across the pipe. Third step is to OPEN at least one HOT water faucet within the house. By doing so, internal water pressure within the tank will be relieved.

Air will than be allowed to enter through the opened faucet to help displace the water in the tank. Failure to execute this step will result in the tank not completely emptying.

Fourth step is to locate the faucet {Spigot} on the tank. These faucets are always located near the bottom of the tank next to the thermostat temperature control dial or lower thermostat on electric water heater tanks.

To this spigot, attach a common garden hose and place the other end of the hose where the exiting hot water will be safe to flow and the hot water will not cause damages to the surrounding areas.

Once the garden hose is attached to the spigot or faucet on the tank, OPEN the valve and allow the entire tank to DRAIN until fully emptied. This process may take several minutes. Be patient.

TANK FLUSHING PROCEDURE:
It is often recommended and also a good idea to FLUSH a water heater tank yearly. The reasoning behind this maintenance procedure is to flush out accumulated sediment and rust particles that will naturally settle and on the bottom of the tank.

Sediment is found within all supplies of water more or less to some degree. Rust comes from the tanks interior, do to normal tank aging, the iron pipes within the houses piping system, those of the main supply, the streets piping system and other sources, depending on the water supply.

TANK FLUSHING METHOD:
To successfully accomplish the tank flushing task, simply attach a common garden hose to the water heaters faucet. To flush the tank, there is NO need to turn off the gas or electrical supply nor open any hot water faucet within the house.

Leave the inlet water supply valve ON. Just attach the garden hose to the tanks faucet, place the other end in a location where HOT water will do no damage and then simply OPEN the tanks faucet valve.

Allow the existing HOT water to flow out until it does so cleanly and clearly. Depending upon the amount of rust and debris inside the tank, this step may take less than one minute or several minutes to completely and fully accomplish.

Be patient. Depending upon the amount of sediment and rust contained within the tank and how often this process is done, will determine the amount of time required to fully complete the tank flushing process.

Once this process is accomplished, CLOSE the tanks faucet valve. Remove the garden hose from the faucet.

PRESTO! The FLUSHING is completed...........

Sharp Advice. TCB4U2B2B Business Management Services.
Web Site Host, Moderator Hiring Agent, Gas Appliances Topic Moderator, Multiple Forums Moderator & Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics Technician.

Personal Driving Safety Reminder: Buckle Up & Drive Safely.
"The Life You Save, May Be Your Own."

Edited & Updated October 3, 2006

[Sharp Advice]

Cleaning Out Tank Type Water Heaters:
http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=244744

Links To Existing Threads. Information & Advice Offered:
http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?p=877893#post877893

http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=239300

http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=244148

http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=241215

http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=161631&highlight=tankless

Gas or Electric Water Heater?
http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=238306

TANK LESS WATER HEATER HELP LINK:
Tank less Water Heater Help & Informational Link:
http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?threadid=147262

WATER HEATER DRAINING AND FLUSHING INFO:
http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=159797

CARBON MONOXIDE WEB SITE INFO:
http://www.carbon-monoxide-poisoning.com/symptoms.html

CARBON MONOXIDE DIY THREADS:
http://search.doityourself.com/texis/doityourself/search/?pr=base&prox=page&rorder=500&rprox=500&rdfreq=500&rwfreq=500&rlead=500&sufs=0&query=carbon+monoxide&cq=3&submit=Search

Links To Anodes:
www.waterheaterrescue.com

http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pa...ter-anodes.html

Sharp Sharp Advice. TCB4U2B2B Business Management Services.
Web Site Host, Moderator Hiring Agent, Gas Appliances Topic Moderator, Multiple Forums Moderator & Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics Technician.

Personal Driving Safety Reminder: Buckle Up & Drive Safely.
"The Life You Save, May Be Your Own."

Edited & Updated October 3, 2006

[Sharp Advice]

REPLACING A THERMOCOUPLE:

When a water heaters pilot automatically shuts off and you find yourself suddenly without hot water, most likely but not always, the thermocouple is too weak to produce the needed and required D/C current required to keep the gas valves internal shut off safety valve (ASO) opened.

Or, in some cases, the thermocouple is simply burned out from normal usage. Thermocouple replacement is than the only option.

Items and conditions to check first:
Be sure the pilot flame is all blue and no yellow is present. If any yellow is present or there is any doubt pilot flame is correctly burning or maybe it's dusty and not hot enough, blow the pilot out or turn it off at the control knob. Rotate knob to the OFF position. Allow pilot assembly to cool.

Than use can of computer keyboard canned air cleaner to blow out the entire assembly. The pilot may be slightly restricted. Pilot assembly must be cleaned. This can usually be done using a can of compressed computer keyboard cleaner. Insert the plastic extension tube into the can and than blow out the entire pilot assembly. Do not do so when the water heaters burner has the possibility of turning on. Be sure the control knob is in the "OFF" position before cleaning is done and the pilot assembly is not hot.

Once the cleaning and blowing out of the pilot assembly is done, the pilot can now be relighted and water heater can be allowed to operate for a day to determine if pilot cleaning has resolved the pilot outage problem. If the above does not solve the problem and the pilot once again goes out, or will not allow the pilot to remain "ON", replacing the thermocouple is required. Instructions below.

Replacing the thermocouple should now resolve the problem of pilot outages described above. The thermocouple is the part the pilot flame is in contact with. The opposite end of the thermocouple is threaded into the gas valve. This end must be carefully unscrewed out of the gas valves control using a small open ended wrench.

A thermocouple is generic except for it's length. Thermocouples are made in different lengths. Measure the removed part or take the one you remove to any hardware store and replace existing thermocouple with an exact duplicate in length. The parts cost is very nominal.

New thermocouple packages will contain complete do-it-yourself installation instructions and pictures. The package also contains additional clips of various assortments. Not all the parts contained in the package with the thermocouple will be needed. The packages contain an assortment of holding parts and clips that are generic and designed to fit a wide variety of applications.

If the burner doesn't light up immediately, not to worry. The water in the tank may already be hot enough. To verify this, rotate the temperature knob to a higher setting to test it. The burner flames should now lite up and resume heating the tanks water. Readjust the temperature knob setting back to it's original setting or to the "NORMAL" setting.

If you had or have to remove the entire burner assembly, entire burner removal is very common on some models, soap test the two tubing nut fittings to the right of the thermocouple fitting while the burner is "ON".

The pilot and the burner "MUST" be "ON" to very any leaks exist. Gas must be flowing through the tubes to find leaks. "NONE" will be located and/or found when the control is in the "OFF" position.

Common error often made by the DIY person. No leak will be found and an assumption.... will be made all is okay. Not so. If there are any leaks found at the tubing nuts when pilot and burner are "ON", tighten the hex head nut fittings carefully and slightly tighten more and/or as needed, to stop any visible tiny leaks found using leak detection soap, as indicated by the soap bubbles. No leaks must be present.

HINTS & TIPS:

DO NOT use any pipe tape on any of the hex head nut fittings.

DO NOT use a wrench to start the male tubing nuts or the threaded end of the thermocouple.

HAND start the threads to avoid cross threading and damaging the threads. Once your sure the threads are correctly pre-started and tightened as much as possible using fingers only, use the correct sized open ended wrench to further tighten the nut but do it CAREFULLY.

DO NOT over tighten the nuts! Damage can occur. Just firmly secure the hex head nuts.

Install new T-Couple into pilot assembly exactly as the existing one is currently installed. Element end must be placed exactly to the same height as the exiting one is installed into the pilot assembly. Reinstall pilot assembly as found.

Gently thread nut end of T-Couple into gas control valve, starting threads by hand to insure threads will not cross thread and become damaged. Tighten thermocouple nut snugly but do not over tighten. Tighten just snugly enough until hex nut bottoms out into the magneto head. Magneto head usually has a RED plastic cover over it.

Cautionary Notes:
Once repairs are made, relight pilot, set control to "ON" position and turn up temperature control dial.

Disclaimer Notes:
The information above is offered to provide basic information, advice and instructional procedures only. Methods and procedures apply only to tank type water heaters.

Results and methods may vary. Always read your owners manual and closely follow the advice and procedures given in the manufacturers booklet, owners manual or on the labels attached to the tank and or parts packages. Always follow all safety warnings!

Read the other topics in this forum and those within this water heater forum for additional information provided by the plumbing professionals. Doing so will provide you with other problem possibilities, causes, solutions and alternate correctional methods, etc.

SAFETY REMINDERS:

1)
If you do not feel safe and/or comfortable performing any types(s) of repairs to any water heater, you are not very mechanically inclined, not handy with common shop and/or toolbox hand tools, etc, have a professional provide this service and/or any other such services to gas appliances. Safety First!

2)
It is always possible there are other reasons for pilot outages. The thermocouple could simply be worn out or burned out. The magneto head, installed into the gas control valve can be defective.

3)
The water heater may have venting problems, collapsed and/or restricted internal vent baffle, air flow restrictions, lack of adequate intake combustion air, gas pressure problems, smothering flames, defective thermostat and/or control and/or several other unseen and or unsafe pre-existing conditions, etc, that "ONLY" the well experienced and well trained service person will be able to determine exists.

Bare in mind, pilots that tend to go out for reasons other then a thermocouple burning out, may not be caused by the thermocouple itself. A thermocouple is just one part in a complete safety devices system.

There are several conditions which may cause the appliance to operate in a condition which could be hazardous. Some of those conditions are designed to extinguish the pilot. In do so, all gas flow through the gas control valve is shut off automatically for safety.

If there are any doubts regarding the physical, operational or safety aspects of the water heater or any gas appliances operating conditions, especially heaters, that exhibit repeated pilot outages, smells and or odors, etc. associated with the gas appliance, may indicate a hazardous condition exists.

For personal and families safety, possible property damages, etc. do not hesitate to contact qualified professional help. Also bare in mind many gas utilities offer in home appliance services. Contact the utility directly for information, services offered and applicable fees.

CARBON MONOXIDE WEB SITE INFO:
http://www.carbon-monoxide-poisoning.com/symptoms.html

WATER HEATER DRAINING AND FLUSHING INFO:
http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=159797

Sharp Advice. TCB4U2B2B Business Management Services.
Web Site Host, Moderator Hiring Agent, Gas Appliances Topic Moderator, Multiple Forums Moderator & Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics Technician.

Personal Driving Safety Reminder: Buckle Up & Drive Safely.
"The Life You Save, May Be Your Own."

Edited & Updated October 3, 2006

[Sharp Advice]

TANK TYPE WATER HEATER BASIC PILOT LIGHTING INSTRUCTIONS:

The correct procedure is to always use "EXTREME" caution at all times. For personal safety, turn the selector knob to the "OFF" position and wait about 5 minutes or more. Be sure any thermostat temperature dial used to operate the water heater is turned to the "LOWEST" temperature setting and/or position.

The position selector knob, on the common tank type water heater, almost all types of other gas appliances that have a constant burning pilot flame, will have 2 or 3 positions marked on the rotating selector knob or dial.

The most likely and common 3 positions are OFF, PILOT and ON. All water heaters use the three position selections. On the 2 position control selector control knobs, any combination of the above may be found, depending on the type of gas appliance the control is used on.

The pilot assembly gas supply tube will be at the end of the aluminum pilot tube at the bottom and on the left side of the control valve exiting the gas control valve. The correct place to light the pilot, will be at the very top of the pilot assembly inside the firebox. Pilot assembly will be attached to the burner. Most, if not all burners are round and corrugated.

After the pilot lights, continue to hold that "RED" reset and/or depressed down for about 45 to 60 seconds or so, then slowly release it. Button should raise up.

Stand back at arms length. If the pilot flame remains on, rotate the control selector knob to the "ON" position. Burner should now fire up. If the main burner does not light up, raise the thermostats temperature to maximum to allow the burner to light up and then lower it to your desired temperature.

If the pilot does not remain on when you release the "Red" button, the thermocouple is dead. This often happens when the flame gets extinguished for any number of reasons. In the above case, the thermocouple must be replaced.

Additional Possible Causes For Pilot Outages:

It is always possible there are other reasons for pilot outages. The thermocouple could simply be worn out or burned out. The magneto head, installed into the gas control valve can be defective.

The water heater may have venting problems, air flow restrictions, lack of adequate combustion air, gas pressure problems, smothering flames, defective thermostat and/or control and/or several other unseen and or unsafe pre-existing conditions, etc.

Bare in mind, pilots that tend to go out for reasons other then a thermocouple burning out, may not be caused by the thermocouple itself. A thermocouple is just one part in a complete safety devices in the system.

There are several conditions which may cause the appliance to operate in a condition which could be hazardous. Some of those conditions are designed to extinguish the pilot. In do so, all gas flow through the gas control valve is shut off automatically for safety.

If there are any doubts regarding the physical, operational or safety aspects of the water heater or any gas appliances operating conditions, especially heaters, that exhibit repeated pilot outages, smells and or odors, etc. associated with the gas appliance, may indicate a hazardous condition exists.

For personal and families safety, possible property damages, etc. do not hesitate to contact qualified professional help. Also bare in mind many gas utilities offer in home appliance services. Contact the utility directly for information, services offered and applicable fees.

Disclaimer Note:
The information above is offered to provide basic information and instructional procedures only. Always read your owners manual and closely follow the advice and procedures given in the manufacturers booklet or on the labels attached to the appliance. Always follow all safety warnings!

Be sure the appliance is turned off before attempting any repairs. Always check for gas leaks whenever a repair includes any connection of a gas part, gas line or tubing or gas supply.

Retail parts dealers can also help determine what the possible problem may be. Bring the make, model and serial numbers. The info will help to determine the possible problem causes.

An excellent source for water heater replacement parts is your local retail appliance parts store or any local hardware store. Appliance parts dealers stock replacement parts for all appliances. Local parts dealers are listed in the phone book under appliances.

WATER HEATER HELP LINK:
http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?threadid=159797

WATER HEATER DRAINING AND FLUSHING INFO:
http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=159797

CARBON MONOXIDE WEB SITE INFO:
http://www.carbon-monoxide-poisoning.com/symptoms.html

GAS & ELECTRIC WATER HEATER INFO & LINKS:

DIY'S Water Heating Pages:
http://doityourself.com/waterheater/index.shtml

Water Heater Help Information:
http://forum.doityourself.com/showt...6740#post556740

Water Heaters:
http://links.doityourself.com/links/water_heaters/

Gas Water Heater Picture:
http://repair2000.com/gashtr.gif

Gas Water Heater Thermocouple Picture:
http://www.thisoldappliance.com/parts/thermocouple.gif

Electric Water Heater Picture:
http://repair2000.com/elechtr.gif
Thermostat: http://www.thisoldappliance.com/parts/tstat.jpg

Pressure-Temperature Valve Picture:
http://www.thisoldappliance.com/t_p_valve.jpg

Electric Water Heater Element Picture:
http://www.thisoldappliance.com/parts/whtr_element.gif

DIY'S Plumbing & Hardware Shopping Center And Much More:
http://doityourself.com/store/plumbing.htm

DIY'S Appliance Parts and Accessories Shopping Center.
http://doityourself.com/store/applianceparts.shtm

Additional Information can be found in the related info links to the right >>>

Sharp Advice. TCB4U2B2B Business Management Services.
Web Site Host, Moderator Hiring Agent, Gas Appliances Topic Moderator, Multiple Forums Moderator & Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics Technician.

Personal Driving Safety Reminder: Buckle Up & Drive Safely.
"The Life You Save, May Be Your Own."

Edited & Updated October 3, 2006

[gianni]

Hello All;

back in September 05 I installed a Bosch Aquastar 250 SX water heater after a long time researching and reading. Here are some of the lessons I've learned. Any feedback on these would be greatly appreciated;


1. Check to see what the required static gas pressure needs to be for the instant hot water heater you plan on buying. Then check to see what your gas company will provide. I found that my unit requires a minimum of 6" WC when my gas company only gaurantees 3" WC. My gas company was able to increase the pressure in my lines to just around 6" WC, but I still have some minor issues where my unit is gasping for gas.

2. Try to install 2 handle faucet controls. While you ideally want to set your water heater temperature to 1 constant temperature, it is not really that practical. Make your life easier, install 2 handle units and set your tankless heater to 120 degress. While this does reduce the efficiency a bit, it keeps the wife happier and that makes for an easier life all around.

3. There is a delay for these units to fire up and begin cranking out hot water. That delay will be made worse if you are using one of these units to heat an entire house. My unit is not centrally located. Combined with a 3200 sq ft home...well, i should have considered better unit placement or considered 2 units.

4. Get an installer who has experience with these units. My installer had never done one before. While he did an ok job, he was the one who pushed for the current location of the unit. Had a more experienced installer been involved, he would have realized that there are more venting options an that we had more choices for unit location.

5. Lastly, make sure your wife understands the difference between a tank water heater and tankless. My wife just knows that she can't get hot water how she wants it and that makes her hate the water heater

As I said before, any feedback greatly appreciated. Also, any ideas if having higher gas pressure in my lines is bad for anything else?

Thanks!

[Sharp Advice]

Hello: gianni.
Excellent dissertation and observations. Others members should know or need to know before considering purchasing any instantaneous water heater.

More on the topic here:
TANK LESS WATER HEATER HELP LINK:
Tank less Water Heater Help & Informational Link:
http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?threadid=147262

I usually do not quote any parts or aspects of a question unless I can determine it is necessary to do so. In this case I did so because of the nature of the question:
Also, any ideas if having higher gas pressure in my lines is bad for anything else?

There is rarely any need to increase gas supply line pressure. Only in very large complexes is higher than normal pressure used. Normal natural gas pressure in the main supply line for a residential house is between 7.5 to 10 inches water column pressure. Which is about 1/3 of a pound or so.

Each individual appliance than steps that down to 3.5 to 4 inches water column pressure. So increasing the supply pressure does nothing beneficial and may do more harm than good. Gas volume is essential, not pressure so much. To have proper gas volume delivery, there has to be proper pipe sizes for natural gas, as well as propane. Too little volume effects proper appliance operations, not just pressure alone.

Any doubts about gas pressures, whether natural or propane, contact the supplier. The equipment to set the correct delivery pressure and volume out of the meter for natural gas is the responsibility of the supplier and not that of the customers. Nor should any customer and/or plumber etc. make any adjustments to any natural gas equipment, period.

Sharp Advice. TCB4U2B2B Business Management Services.
Web Site Host, Moderator Hiring Agent, Gas Appliances Topic Moderator, Multiple Forums Moderator & Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics Technician.

Personal Driving Safety Reminder: Buckle Up & Drive Safely.
"The Life You Save, May Be Your Own."

Edited & Updated October 3, 2006