Tools, Sharpening and Power Machinery Welcome, Help, Links & Information

Hello and Welcome Aboard Everyone...

Welcome to My World!
You have a dull question?
Post it here. I may have a sharp answer!

My name is Tom and I really do sharpen tools. I have been sharpening, as a vocation & part time business for well over 20 years and have my own small shop.

I gather many of the tools from local lumber yards, building material yards, hardware stores, fabric shops, where homeowners bring in their tools. Lumber, building material yards and equipment rental yards, where contractors bring their tools.

I also have a selected number of direct contact custom cabinet builders and wood working customers. These customers are some of my businesses best customers. They appreciate service provided and pay me dearly too!

Other pickup locations in my service area include several small non related retail shops, like fabric stores, shoe repair and fix-it shops. The vast majority of items I get turned in for sharpening are the tools customarily found in and around the home, garden shed, barn and garage.

To name a few tools, knives, scissors, mower blades, pruning shears & snipers, hedge cutters, drill bits, both hand & power saw blades, mower blades, router bits, end mills, assorted cutting tools both steel and carbide.

Many of the cutting tools found in the home, used in the garden, shop, shed or found in the garage, can be sharpened by the homeowner with a few basic skills, learned talents, two or three basic machines, lots of practice and patients.

In this forum, I hope to assist you to accomplish the basic sharpening tasks for your everyday type of tools. In the coming weeks, months and years ahead, I will be posting sharpening tips, hints, general shop and sharpening safety articles.

Therefore, I invite you to return often and should you have any questions on sharpening tools commonly found around the house, do post them. I will be glad to hear from you and offer as much technical advice as possible and help needed.

Understand of course, that in context of text (words) alone, like that found here in this forum, there will be many tools that just cannot be explained how to sharpen using plain simple text only instructions.

However, feel free to ask and it shall be my pleasure to offer you any tips, hints and advice I can. A suggestion would be to purchase a generic sharpening procedures basic book and learn the sharpening basics.

A general word of CAUTION working around any machinery and especially with blades, may be in order here. Most importantly, wear eye protection. Dress for the occasion. Never wear long sleeve shirts, excessive jewelry or work in a dimly lighted area. Have a first aid kit handy.

Allow NO distractions and always consider the fact that an accident can happen working around machinery. Be prepared for nicks, cuts, bruises and occasionally slivers.

So now you must be wondering what the sharpeners industry saying is?

I can sharpen anything except your "mind and your wits"!

Sincerely,
Sharp Advice. Web Site Host, Forums Manager, Monitor & Multiple Topics Moderator.
Accurate Power Equipment Company. Complete Saw and Tool Sharpening Service.

[This message has been edited by Sharp Advice (edited December 17, 1999).]

[This message has been edited by Sharp Advice (edited December 20, 1999).]

[This message has been edited by Sharp Advice (edited August 28, 2006).]

[Sharp Advice]

Hello and Welcome to Do-It-Yourself.com and the Saw and Tool Sharpening forum Topic.

In my sharpening forum topic, we can help you learn to sharpen many varieties, types of hand and power tools commonly found in the house, garage, workshop and shed.

Often sharpening can be done using commonly found garage or work shed hand tools and power machinery. Have questions? Ask them in this forum topic. Be glad to help...

MOWER BLADE SHARPENING LINK:
DIY Web Sites Mower Blade Sharpening Link:
http://doityourself.com/lawn/sharpmowerblade.htm

DIY Sharpening Link:
http://www.tskgrinding.com/
Nationwide supplier of industrial knives and sharpening supplies.

SHARPENING EQUIPMENT:
Thorvie International:
http://www.thorvie.com/

Foley-Belsaw Company:
http:www.foley-belsaw.com
1-800-821-3452

Sharpening Web Site:
http://belsaw.com/
1-800-468-4449

SPA Engineering Sharpening Web Site:
http://www.spa-uk.co.uk/eng/index.htm

Darex Drill Bit Sharpeners:
http://www.darex.com/index.html

Rush Sharpening Machinery:
http://www.rushmachinery.com

Knife Sharpening Links:
http://www.cutlerscove.com/links/sharpeners.html

Sharpening Made Easy - Knife Sharpening Pages.
http://www.ameritech.net/users/knives/

http://www.ameritech.net/users/knives/knives.htm

A Guide to Honing and Sharpening:
http://www.antiquetools.com/sharp/

Regards, Sharp Advice.
Web Sites Host, Forums Manager, Monitor & Sharpening Forum Moderator.
Accurate Power Equipment Company. Complete Saw and Tool Sharpening Services.

[Sharp Advice]

Links To Prior Postings Pertaining To Mower Blade Sharpening.

Do It Yourself Web Sites Page:
http://doityourself.com/outdoorpower...mowerblade.htm

Sharpening Mulcher Blades

Lawn Mower Blade

lawnmower blades

Mulching Mower Blades

lawn mower blade sharpening

mower blades

lawn mower blade

http://forum.doityourself.com/tools-sharpening-power-machinery/62699-lawnmower-blade.html#post176973

http://forum.doityourself.com/outdoor-power-equipment-small-engines/23145-snowblower-surges.html#post62699

[Sharp Advice]

Chainsaw Help and Information.

Chainsaw Tune Up.......2 Cycle Engines
2-Cycle tune-up
2 Cycle Running Problem
2 cycle engine

SMALL ENGINES:
Some info applies to chainsaws.
Diaphram Carb & Engine Running Problems:
Diaphram Carb & Engine Running Problems (Merged Threads - Tripper)

Carburetor Service & Repair:
Carburetor Service & Repair

Engine Starting Problem (Carburetor)
Engine Starting Problem (Carb Problem)

Engine Starting & Running Problems:
engine starting & running problem
Engine Starting Problems

Carb Adjustment Web Site Help Page: (Chainsaw)
http://www.madsens1.com/sawtune.htm

[Sharp Advice]

Hand Filing:

Chain saw chain cutters come in several sizes. Using the correct round file size is required. If possible, take a few chains with you as a sample. Buy the correct file sizes for the chains that need to be sharpened.

You'll also need a flat file to lower the depth gages. The depth gages are in front of the cutting teeth. They determine the cutting depths of the teeth. They really only need to be checked and lowered every other sharpening.

Also needed is a flat metal measuring gage. The flat gage is used to determine the height of the depth gages in relationship to the cutting teeth.

Best, but not required to purchase, is a chain holding device or jig which can be held in a common work shop vise.

Leather work shop gloves to protect hands and safety goggles should be used at all times for personal injury protection.

The depth gages are the raised sections directly in front of the cutting edges. They determine the depth the cutting edges cut at. They control the depth the cutting teeth cut at. To high and the teeth make saw dust, cut slowly and make the saw work more than it should.

Make the saw work more than it should, meaning running a lot but not getting much accomplished. Depth gages to low will make the cutting teeth cut too deep, over work the engine and create larger chips of wood bits, etc.

To determine the height of the gages in relationship to the teeth, lay a flat blade across the chain when the chain is vertical. Use a feeler gage to check (measure) the difference between the height of the depth gages and the height of the cutting tooth.

Do this on a brand new chain and note the distance amount between gage height and tooth height. After the second sharpening, lower the depth gages, using the flat file, to return the original height found using the feeler gage. It's that easy.

Try to file the gages to maintain the original curved angles, if possible. A special file can be and should be used for this process. Do not lower the gages too low. Once the depth gages are reset correctly, the chain will cut like new, using less cutting effort and make it easier on the saw, less heat buildup, bar rail wear and reduce chain stretching, etc.

Turning the bar over every other chain sharpening helps to more evenly distribute the bar rail wear. Most bars can be turned over. But not all bars. Refer to the manufacturers instructions included with the machine and or bar rail, if purchased separately.

Turning the bar rail over also helps to extend the service life of the bar. Cleaning out the center groove each chain sharpening helps to keep the chain running level in the bar rail.

Having the bar rail resurfaced whenever installing a new chain helps and in my opinion is a must, to extend the service life of the new chain. Doing so does not allow the new chain(s) to unevenly wear out the links which run on the bars rails.

Using plenty of chain oil helps to lube the chain as well as cool it. Cooler running decreases the heat buildup and chain stretching and wear. Also helps to flush out sawdust from the bar rail, etc.

Holding the saw straight keeps the bar cutting straight. Thus reducing the wear on both the chain and the bar rails. Chains where not meant to cut at angles. Doing so unevenly wears on the bar rails causing unwanted cuts at angles.

Maintaining sharpened chains and level bar rails allows the saw to cut with less effort and wear on the engine. Chainsaws are higher maintenance machines than initially or basically thought to be. A factor to consider.

Regards and Good Luck, Sharp Advice. Web Site Host, Moderator Hiring Agent, Forums Monitor, Manager and Sharpening Forum Moderator. Accurate Power Equipment Company. Complete Saw and Tool Sharpening Services.

[Sharp Advice]

VIP: Read the instructional manual! Follow all the procedures and PRACTICE!

Specific instructions apply to each brand on sharpener. Reading the instructions is vital in obtaining final results and good cutting quality.

An often asked question. Why do the cutting teeth vary in size???

Cutter tooth size will almost always vary after the chains first usage and always after it's first sharpening. Much depends upon several factors.

Most commonly is the condition of the bar rail. Always over looked as a key factor in chain condition. Rails have to be level on both sides. Bar rail surfacing is not often done simply because they are not thought to ever need truing by the machine owners and very often not suggested by sharpeners to have this service done. But bar rail truing is highly critical. Have the bar resurfaced and trued every three or four chain resharpening, in my opinion, and as a professional sharpening person.

Next factor is using the average tooth wear method. Not all cutter teeth will wear equally during cutting. Therefore, finding the average tooth size is critical. Than adjusting the cutter distance in the vise clamp to about the average wear and sharpening from that distance.

The key factor is to only remove just enough material to cleanup the cutting surface and restore the cutting edge back to it's original sharpness on average. Than lower the height of the depth gage's to about 20 thousands of an inch or so. Not much more then that must be maintained.

Another factor is the operator. Which cannot be controlled....

Chain over usage is often done and a key factor. Users wait far too long between sharpenings. Which causes excessive dullness, chain stretching, excessive heat build up and stress on the chains and bars.

Under oiling the bar rail is also a key factor. Creates excessive resistance and heat buildup between chain and bar, etc. Sharpening only the chains, which are usually only brought in to a shop, does not allow sharpeners to see the bars and offer bar rail truing. A critical process to proper chain operation, longevity and safety as well!

Best possible results happen when the grinding wheel is correct shaped and sized, an average tooth size is measured, while in the machine. Slide the chain up-wards or down-wards in the holding vise device on the machine and while lowering the wheel into the tooth.

Once the average is determined and set, sharpen chain. Than lower the raker's and or depth gage's, if need be. Usually not required on the first sharpening. Always likely on the second sharpening.

Another factor is who and/or whom sharpened the chain prior to you? Another sharpening shop? The machine owner? All factors to consider.

When all the factors cannot be controlled, the average method works best. When a chain wears out, does not cut well enough after proper sharpening or wears out too soon, selling a new chain is the next opportunity for the shop owner.

Hope some of the above information helps to understand the causes of the conditions found on chains and methods to help resolve the problems encountered. Chains and bars are a science all of there own. Many critical factors, angles and conditions not often seen or known by chain saw users, owners and even some sharpening shop owners.

Regards and Good Luck, Sharp Advice. Web Site Host, Moderator Hiring Agent, Forums Monitor and Sharpening Forum Moderator. Accurate Power Equipment Company. Complete Saw and Tool Sharpening Services.

Reminder: "Work Shop Safety Is No Accident."

Trail & Errors, Practice & Patience creates perfect sharpening results.
Safety Reminder: "Work Shop Safety Is No Accident."

Personal Driving Safety Reminder:
Buckle Up & Drive Safely.
"The Life You Save" "May Be Your Own!"