Behr vs Glidden
#1
Behr vs Glidden
Hi,
I am now ready to paint my bathroom ceiling and walls after priming with two coats of oil based Zinsser Cover Stain. I'm going to my local HD tomorrow to pick up the paint. The Behr brand has not been getting good reviews on this forum, so I'm going for another brand. How is Glidden brand paint? I have a Glidden brochure with me and I don't see a specific one made for bathroom walls. I do see one for ceilings. Do I need to buy paint exclusively marked for bathrooms? If not, is there anything specific that I have to look for? I want to buy oil based paint in either eggshell or satin as recommended on this forum.
Thanks for the assistance.
Nadine
I am now ready to paint my bathroom ceiling and walls after priming with two coats of oil based Zinsser Cover Stain. I'm going to my local HD tomorrow to pick up the paint. The Behr brand has not been getting good reviews on this forum, so I'm going for another brand. How is Glidden brand paint? I have a Glidden brochure with me and I don't see a specific one made for bathroom walls. I do see one for ceilings. Do I need to buy paint exclusively marked for bathrooms? If not, is there anything specific that I have to look for? I want to buy oil based paint in either eggshell or satin as recommended on this forum.
Thanks for the assistance.
Nadine
#2
I'm not sure exactly where it was said to use oil-based paint for a finish coat on walls. In fact, you will have a real hard time finding any oil in a finish type product (for walls) let alone in eggshell or satin.
I would use a latex finish coat, it will adhere to the coverstain just fine, and look for one made for kitchens/baths. If you can't find a specific bath paint at HD, add some mildew inhibitor to it, thats basically all k and b paint is anyways.
I would pick Glidden over Behr anyday.
I know Sherwin Williams and Ben Moore both make specific kitchen/bath paints.
I would use a latex finish coat, it will adhere to the coverstain just fine, and look for one made for kitchens/baths. If you can't find a specific bath paint at HD, add some mildew inhibitor to it, thats basically all k and b paint is anyways.
I would pick Glidden over Behr anyday.
I know Sherwin Williams and Ben Moore both make specific kitchen/bath paints.
#6
Let me add to the chorus of "Behr stinks"!!
I used Behr in one bathroom and Benjamin Moore Kitchen & Bath in the other. The difference is enormous. BM looks classier and covers better.
I used one coat primer, two coats paint. Also, I agree with prowallguy - latex would be better than oil.
I used Behr in one bathroom and Benjamin Moore Kitchen & Bath in the other. The difference is enormous. BM looks classier and covers better.
I used one coat primer, two coats paint. Also, I agree with prowallguy - latex would be better than oil.
#7
What's wrong with 'Behr'? Ive used it both exterior and interior and fairly pleased. The latex does seem to be temperature sensitive though when painting interior..
#10
Ok..I get the message. - Im not a pro painter..but have painted a fair bit, both for myself..and my customers. So far.. so good. Ive use General paint as well..Maybe Ill try something else and see.
Where's the data sheets? - Im curious...
Where's the data sheets? - Im curious...
#11
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To answer briefly , Data sheets contain the info about the chemical ingredients of the paint. For example percent solids volumes weight of solids. type of binder and pigments etc etc. Behr doesnt post them on their website but most companys do ie, SW Diamond vogel BenJ.Moore Its not really a big deal but as for me I always like to know the volume solids and also the amount of titanium dioxide , silica etc. To summarize..Behr spends thier money on marketing and almost zippo on the paint .
#12
PB is right on. Any reputable paint manufacturer is trying to sell their paint to painters, because they will buy alot more paint than DIY'ers. Hence they publish the guts of their product to show the pro's that their product is the best. Behr markets to DIY'ers who don't know a binder from a resin, and wouldn't know if the paint they are using is showing signs of blocking or poor edge hold-out.
#13
Ok.. Now you got my attention and interest..
What is "showing signs of blocking or poor edge hold-out."?
I ask because Ive done a good deal of painting as a 'handyman' business and been using Behr. Ive been noticing that keeping the 'edge' wet, for the next area to be painting seems to becoming a concern for me. I thought it was either the room was too warm, or to cool, or my painting skills. Is this the 'edge hold-out' you mentioned..as an issue w/Behr?
What is "showing signs of blocking or poor edge hold-out."?
I ask because Ive done a good deal of painting as a 'handyman' business and been using Behr. Ive been noticing that keeping the 'edge' wet, for the next area to be painting seems to becoming a concern for me. I thought it was either the room was too warm, or to cool, or my painting skills. Is this the 'edge hold-out' you mentioned..as an issue w/Behr?
#14
'Blocking' is real close to 'flashing'. Blocking occurs when rolling, and you overlap a previously rolled area. Like when you talk about keeping a wet edge. Any paint rolled and 'dried' within an hour should be able to be rolled back over without appearing to be 'double coated'. With good quality paint, you can reroll over dry edges and it will 'reactivate' the paint, enabling you to blend it in. Paint is comprised of binders (adhesion properties), pigments (color), resins (hardeners), and vehicle (water or oil). Cheaper or lower quality paint lacks the good stuff, binders and resins, and is comprised of mostly vehicle. The act of paint drying, is really just the vehicle evaporating out of the film. With not much good stuff, like binders, it evaporates real fast, hence drying too fast. So when rolled back over, it looks like it was double coated instead of blending in.
'Edge hold out' or also called 'edge cling', is when you paint a piece of trim, like door frame or baseboard. You ever notice you can coat it 2 or 3 times, and still the sharp edges of the trim appear dark, or blue? Its almost as if the paint is repelled from the edges. A good paint will have 'edge cling' and it won't appear to be dark on the edges after 1 or 2 coats.
Hope this makes sense, my brain is smoking now.
'Edge hold out' or also called 'edge cling', is when you paint a piece of trim, like door frame or baseboard. You ever notice you can coat it 2 or 3 times, and still the sharp edges of the trim appear dark, or blue? Its almost as if the paint is repelled from the edges. A good paint will have 'edge cling' and it won't appear to be dark on the edges after 1 or 2 coats.
Hope this makes sense, my brain is smoking now.
#15
Damn.. thats a great explaination and makes perfect sence. Ive never really considered these characteristics in and of paint..tho an important aspect to the process. Maybe its time to do some paint shopping/comparisons. Im pretty much a regular at my HD..and been using Behr, both at home and for clients...but have noticed the 'blocking' is not good with the Behr lately. Im not sure about General paint, a regular up here too!(Vancouver BC). So you guys like SW, BM Glidden?
Thanx for the info
Thanx for the info
#18
Originally Posted by prowallguy
PB is right on. Any reputable paint manufacturer is trying to sell their paint to painters, because they will buy alot more paint than DIY'ers. Hence they publish the guts of their product to show the pro's that their product is the best. Behr markets to DIY'ers who don't know a binder from a resin, and wouldn't know if the paint they are using is showing signs of blocking or poor edge hold-out.
I really don't think this info is correct - from memory, I think at least three Behr Interior paint finishes were selected by CONSUMER REPORTS a few months back as THE top performing brands out of all the ones tested. I've used Behr myself for years, and have almost invariably had great results, both in application and finish durability.
What I was told by a HD guy at the paint counter is that Glidden is the Home Depot off-price brand - the quality is not at the same level as the Behr (Premium Plus) product.
#19
Behr is listed in the CU top ten because it was tested by people that aren't painters. They give thumbs up and down to characteristics of the paint that someone on the job everyday doesn't care about, or look for. CU is geared to a one-time DIY'er. An article written by a fellow Guild member:
Quote:
I just finished reading the Consumer Reports roundup of interior paints.
As usual it is written from the DIY perspective and offers little for
the professional. And as usual, I reject most of the criteria used to
judge these paints:
Major problem #1--- Once again CU only chooses the national brands. I
understand why, since it does the DIYer little good to get stoked about
a paint if they can't get it in their state. But the omission of great
regional brands is a fatal error and renders this seemingly
"comprehensive" roundup a complete failure. Maybe when they include
Coronado, Porter, Muralo, Touraine, and so many others it will be worth
a revisit.
Problem #2--- Would it be too obvious to point out that the most
important aspect in our superficial trade is "HOW DOES IT LOOK?" CU
spends a millisecond on this subject and cubbyholes this into "Does it
appear flatter than advertised or glossier than advertised." "Does it
go on smoothly" This is important to the DIYer because they are always
newbies. Pros are familiar with sheen levels after one or two jobs and
aren't surprised by sheen. "Brush glide" (smooth application) is nice,
but even if a paint is less user friendly, pros will usually find a way
around it---or ignore it completely if they think the finished product
is worth the extra effort.
Problem # 3- Hiding and Mildew Resistance are nice. But once again if
a paint gives a better appearance with two coats pros will use it.
(DIYers want a one coat so they can get back to football on TV.) And
scrubbability? CU does not even get into the newer "flat enamels" or
ceramics. Muralo Ultra Ceramic, Pratt &Lambert Accolade, Coronado Cerama
Gard are regional and therefore not mentioned.
Problem # 4-- Do the words "leveling", "flashing", "blocking", "edge
cling", "sagging", "enamel holdout", "recoat time", "cure time", mean
anything to you? Of course they do-you're a pro. They mean nothing to
a DIYer so CU completely ignores these ESSENTIAL paint qualities in
their review.
Problem # 5--- Such a bunch of paint yokels I haven't seen in recent
memory...Did anybody see the word PRIMER mentioned at all? Yes CU,
paint companies have these things that go on first and these things are
part of the "system" than can make or break a job. So with primers you
can tackle painting garbage painted atrium halls with uniform finish and
get good PROFESSIONAL results over patching compounds.
This review is a joke for the pro. Take it and send it to your DIY
relative.
Quote
I couldn't agree more.
Quote:
I just finished reading the Consumer Reports roundup of interior paints.
As usual it is written from the DIY perspective and offers little for
the professional. And as usual, I reject most of the criteria used to
judge these paints:
Major problem #1--- Once again CU only chooses the national brands. I
understand why, since it does the DIYer little good to get stoked about
a paint if they can't get it in their state. But the omission of great
regional brands is a fatal error and renders this seemingly
"comprehensive" roundup a complete failure. Maybe when they include
Coronado, Porter, Muralo, Touraine, and so many others it will be worth
a revisit.
Problem #2--- Would it be too obvious to point out that the most
important aspect in our superficial trade is "HOW DOES IT LOOK?" CU
spends a millisecond on this subject and cubbyholes this into "Does it
appear flatter than advertised or glossier than advertised." "Does it
go on smoothly" This is important to the DIYer because they are always
newbies. Pros are familiar with sheen levels after one or two jobs and
aren't surprised by sheen. "Brush glide" (smooth application) is nice,
but even if a paint is less user friendly, pros will usually find a way
around it---or ignore it completely if they think the finished product
is worth the extra effort.
Problem # 3- Hiding and Mildew Resistance are nice. But once again if
a paint gives a better appearance with two coats pros will use it.
(DIYers want a one coat so they can get back to football on TV.) And
scrubbability? CU does not even get into the newer "flat enamels" or
ceramics. Muralo Ultra Ceramic, Pratt &Lambert Accolade, Coronado Cerama
Gard are regional and therefore not mentioned.
Problem # 4-- Do the words "leveling", "flashing", "blocking", "edge
cling", "sagging", "enamel holdout", "recoat time", "cure time", mean
anything to you? Of course they do-you're a pro. They mean nothing to
a DIYer so CU completely ignores these ESSENTIAL paint qualities in
their review.
Problem # 5--- Such a bunch of paint yokels I haven't seen in recent
memory...Did anybody see the word PRIMER mentioned at all? Yes CU,
paint companies have these things that go on first and these things are
part of the "system" than can make or break a job. So with primers you
can tackle painting garbage painted atrium halls with uniform finish and
get good PROFESSIONAL results over patching compounds.
This review is a joke for the pro. Take it and send it to your DIY
relative.
Quote
I couldn't agree more.
#20
"I wish I was half the man my dog thinks I am"
Woof Woof.. !
Good points 'prowallguy'. I think I've past the stage of a DIY'er and moved to my business. - Handyman as it may seem, quality is still of importance to me and my clients. Anyone who doesnt prime, when required will not get the results one may expect.
I, for one, (who does) and hopefully others, will appreciate your feedback. That's why we are here. You ('guys') are the pro's - and value the info we receive here.
Keep the lines of communication open...it can only benefit us all in the long run.
Woof Woof.. !
Good points 'prowallguy'. I think I've past the stage of a DIY'er and moved to my business. - Handyman as it may seem, quality is still of importance to me and my clients. Anyone who doesnt prime, when required will not get the results one may expect.
I, for one, (who does) and hopefully others, will appreciate your feedback. That's why we are here. You ('guys') are the pro's - and value the info we receive here.
Keep the lines of communication open...it can only benefit us all in the long run.
#21
Kinda like Dr. Phil sez:
Helping you help yourself.
And I have to add:
He was told (trained) to say that. Its called marketing. He doesn't know the difference. If he was asked why the Behr is better, or what ingredients make it perform the way it does, he'd look at you cross-eyed and mumble something about just recently being qualified to use the cash register.
Helping you help yourself.
And I have to add:
I was told by a HD guy at the paint counter is that Glidden is the Home Depot off-price brand - the quality is not at the same level as the Behr (Premium Plus) product.
#23
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I am with the pros.
I agree with the pros here. I belive in using the best material in any project I do. I always ask friends of mine in the business what they use (in this case paint). I like Pittsburg Manor Hall, Sherwin Williams, and Pratt & Lambert.
I find it offensive that HD thinks that whatever they shove in somebodys face should be good enough.
Also, support your local paint store owners, alot better service and they care.
thanks,
mechrus
I find it offensive that HD thinks that whatever they shove in somebodys face should be good enough.
Also, support your local paint store owners, alot better service and they care.
thanks,
mechrus
#24
Also, support your local paint store owners, alot better service and they care.
#25
Well I agree as well, re: best materials ...And supporting the local stores, but before I got on this forum, I didnt have any foundation for comparisons on (eg) paint. I found a local BenMoore retailer and stopped in. The service was better and the young man seemed quite knowledgable. I will be trying BM paint on my own reno project and see how that compares to what Ive generally been using ..(ie Behr). - And to boot, BM is having a sale on now, so the price difference is negligible. We'll see how it goes. I hope to report excellent results...
#26
Well, so far I am very pleased with the BenMoore primier I put on the walls yesterday. Covered everything nicely...even the plaster and bare drywall. Not like another brand of primer Ive used in the past.
We'll see how the finished coat looks after I get that on...but I bet it'll be great....(it better)!
We'll see how the finished coat looks after I get that on...but I bet it'll be great....(it better)!
#29
Just like all paint brands, some love it, some hate it. I for one had a bad experience with it many years ago, so now I tend to shy away from it. All in all, its been around for a long time, and many use it, so it can't be too bad.
#30
Glidden paint sucks
I'm painting my living room. I was using Pratt & Lambert paint for most of living room, and it worked great. I then bought a gallon of Glidden of a different color for just a wall to create a contrast, and the Glidden paint doesn't stick and it even peels off the paint below it. I'm very frustracted; I want to finish painting before the holiday is over. I painted three walls with Pratt & Lambert, and they worked great. But now I'm stuck with this one wall painted with Glidden. I now understand why Pratt & Lambert costs $30 a gallon and Glidden costs less than $15.
#32
Almost all brands of paint have different grades, from premium to mid-level, to apartment to contractor.
Shame is some of the premium grades behave the same as apartment paint.
Shame is some of the premium grades behave the same as apartment paint.
#33
Different grades apparently make a difference.
I am pleased to report that the BenMoore (midgrade) that Im using is so much better than the Behr stuff I had used in the past.
Im probably going to stick with that for the future....as long as the client is willing to pay the difference.
Its worth it to me and my own project at home.
I am pleased to report that the BenMoore (midgrade) that Im using is so much better than the Behr stuff I had used in the past.
Im probably going to stick with that for the future....as long as the client is willing to pay the difference.
Its worth it to me and my own project at home.
#34
I am pleased to report that the BenMoore (midgrade) that Im using is so much better than
Its good stuff.
I use that all the time if the 'Regal' line isn't spec'ed by a decorator/customer.
#35
Yes, well at least the primer is Moore Spec (architecturally specific..whatever that means...)..and the finish coat is 'Moorestyle'. Not sure if that is the same....branded differently for the Canadian market.
#36
According to the young man at BM, their paint grades here are...
1.- BM Collections - best
2.- MooreStyle - better
3.- Moore Spec - good (contractors grade)
..He did mention a 4th, called MoorePro, but that it wasnt very good....
1.- BM Collections - best
2.- MooreStyle - better
3.- Moore Spec - good (contractors grade)
..He did mention a 4th, called MoorePro, but that it wasnt very good....