Kenmore 90 Series dryer makes load buzz

[rblundell]

I replaced the motor on my Kenmore electric dryer. It ran through one cycle just fine. Now when you hit the start button the dryer makes a buzzing sound. I can hear the timer ticking but the dryer does not start. The door switch is working. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[ecman51`]

Did you replace the motor for same reason?

Check for full line voltage of 240 volts first. If you have that, -

-see if you can turn the dryer drum by hand. If it appears to turn pretty hard, you will have to open up dryer and inspect. Make sure some lose clothing did not get into area below lint screen and is now bound up in blower wheel.

Also disconnect dryer belt and turn the new motor shaft to make sure it spins freely(in case you got a lemon). And also spin the tensioner idler pulley to see if that is binding. And see how the drum turns by hand with the belt disconnected, to determine if there is drag on rollers or a rear bearing. Also make sure that any front support glides are not worn out.

[rblundell]

I replaced the original motor because it would not start. I got it on ebay and think the replacement was used. So it is suspect. Line voltage is good. Drum is free and guide rollers were checked when I replaced the motor. The motor spins freely and the belt is in good condition. Now the motor doesn't even buzz. I checked both motors with an ohm meter and they both read the same... no shorts/zero ohms. Maybe I'm not testing them properly. Thanks for your help!

[ecman51`]

Originally Posted by rblundell

I replaced the original motor because it would not start. I got it on ebay and think the replacement was used. So it is suspect. Line voltage is good. Drum is free and guide rollers were checked when I replaced the motor. The motor spins freely and the belt is in good condition. Now the motor doesn't even buzz. I checked both motors with an ohm meter and they both read the same... no shorts/zero ohms. Maybe I'm not testing them properly. Thanks for your help!

Dryer motors are different from many other motors in the sense that they only require one little push of a button (on the control panel) that keeps them going because they use this external start and internal centrifugal switch that keeps them spinning even after you let go of the push button. Because of this, testing them may prove more challenging, since they need to be spinning to engage the centrigual switch in order to keep the contacts closed.

A USED motor? As in - someone may have sold you their junk? If that is the case, and you report this to E-Bay, don't they ban you from E-Bay?

However, befroe we jump to conclusions, based ont eh fact you BELIEVED yor other motor swas bad - perhaps NEITHER motor was/is bad. You may have to figure out, off the schematic, to bypass the timer, so you go directly to the motor, to see if the fault is in the timer. Also you need to rule out in your case of no buzz, that something like the door switch did not go bad. Although that seems doubtfull since you said that you did have a buzz earlier, right?

[rblundell]

Yes the motor I bought on ebay was supposed to be new. But it had dust "bunnies" and the coupling for the fan blower was still attached and had obvious tool marks. The ebay person I bought it from has made good his "error".

I'll see if I can bypass the timer you may very well be right that both motors are good. Is there any general rules in bypassing the timer (other than uplugging the power when I set up the bypass)? I'm not that good with schematics. Thanks a bunch for your help!

[ecman51`]

Originally Posted by rblundell

I'll see if I can bypass the timer you may very well be right that both motors are good. Is there any general rules in bypassing the timer (other than uplugging the power when I set up the bypass)? I'm not that good with schematics. Thanks a bunch for your help!

I can't say, without seeing some kind of schematic myself. I have been trying to drum one up.

I do know ONE thing you do not want to happen is cause 240 volts (L1 and L2 on a diagram) to go to the motor, by mistake.

[rblundell]

Originally Posted by ecman51`

I can't say, without seeing some kind of schematic myself. I have been trying to drum one up.

I do know ONE thing you do not want to happen is cause 240 volts (L1 and L2 on a diagram) to go to the motor, by mistake.

I found the schematic and tech sheet. It has some self tests which resulted in eliminating the motor as a problem since it ran fine during test mode. I think you got me on the right track! I can test the Even Heat Control and the timer.

Here is some more info from the Timer test INFO SHEET. Right now I'll just focus on the time dry mode.

TIME DRY MODE

Timer Contacts Timed Dry Cool Down Wrinkle Guard Off

W to BK O O O O
R TO BK X X O O
V to BK O X X O
BU to BK X X X O

CORRECT ME IF MY ASSUMPTIONS ARE WRONG:

1. In the timed dry mode I should have continuity between these terminals-R to BK.
2. I can jump these wires to bypass the timer R to BK.

Is this correct?

Thanks you have been a great help!