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Humidifiers and Dehumidifiers Furnace Installed and Portable Units. Installations, Repairs and Maintenance, Services and Technical Advice

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Old 11-02-08, 10:41 AM
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Honeywell 220 to Goodman

Hey guys! I just picked up a Honeywell 220. I've read a lot on here about trying to wire directly to the furnace board if possible.

I have a Goodman ARUF023 model. I pulled the front panel and did not see any "hum" or any other promising looking spade terminals.

Does anyone know about this furnace model? Am I stuck using a sail switch. Of course I was trying to not have to use the 120 transformer which will require me to wire up an outlet near by to plug into.

Any advice?

Thanks!
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Old 11-02-08, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by DocG2828 View Post
I have a Goodman ARUF023 model.
Does anyone know about this furnace model?
This is not a furnace, it is an air handler for heat pump w/ electric heat back up.

There is no hook up on here for the humidifier.


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Am I stuck using a sail switch. Of course I was trying to not have to use the 120 transformer which will require me to wire up an outlet near by to plug into.
You are kinda stuck with the sail switch, but there is another way we can wire it.

you can wire it from G wire at the air handler to the humidistat. Humidistat to humidifier.. humidifier back to the air handler's C.
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Old 11-03-08, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Jay11J View Post
This is not a furnace, it is an air handler for heat pump w/ electric heat back up.

There is no hook up on here for the humidifier.



You are kinda stuck with the sail switch, but there is another way we can wire it.

you can wire it from G wire at the air handler to the humidistat. Humidistat to humidifier.. humidifier back to the air handler's C.

I realized when I started more research on this model that it was referred to as an air handler. Furnace is just my generic term for it all since I don't know much about it.

So if I wire it that way, it'll give me my 24v from the G wire? Would I just get a new spade connector and put both wires into the same connector and back onto the G post? When would this tell the humifier to turn on, whenever the heat is on?

I have everything installed so far except the sail switch. So this would still be possible without any patching work.

Thanks for your help. I've read a lot of posts on here and you always seem to provide very good advice. Thanks!
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Old 11-03-08, 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by DocG2828 View Post
So if I wire it that way, it'll give me my 24v from the G wire? Would I just get a new spade connector and put both wires into the same connector and back onto the G post? When would this tell the humifier to turn on, whenever the heat is on?
G is for fan. so any time the t-stat calls for anything, G will power up to run the fan, then that will power up the humidifier.

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I have everything installed so far except the sail switch. So this would still be possible without any patching work.
No, you won't need the sail switch, if you already got it cut in, then go ahead and use it if you want.

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Thanks for your help. I've read a lot of posts on here and you always seem to provide very good advice. Thanks!
You are very welcome.. Glad to help.
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Old 11-03-08, 12:18 PM
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Great! The sail switch isn't mounted so I'm good!

I'll just stop and pick up a few spade connectors rather than a new receptacle, yellow wire, box...etc!

I should be good to go then! I forget what the wiring on the humidistat and humidifier look like, but I'm assuming it'll be pretty obvious which one is the hot going into each one and should be the line from the G terminal. If not, you'll see me again!

Thanks!
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Old 11-03-08, 12:25 PM
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With low voltage, there is not right or wrong side to wire..

Wire like this below..

G---humidistat-----humidifier----C
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Old 11-03-08, 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Jay11J View Post
With low voltage, there is not right or wrong side to wire..

Wire like this below..

G---humidistat-----humidifier----C


Ok, sounds pretty much like a no brainer. Hate that I paid 70 bucks for this install kit and all I'm using is the ducting, tubing and wiring.


One last question....should I be using the brass inserts into the tubing and then the plastic or brass ring thingy's. Seems like the one side to the humidifier where I used the brass insert it has a slight leak.
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Old 11-03-08, 12:38 PM
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One last question....should I be using the brass inserts into the tubing and then the plastic or brass ring thingy's. Seems like the one side to the humidifier where I used the brass insert it has a slight leak.
I hate to say this, I hate those "plastic" water lines.. Get the copper ice maker lines instead. I've seen one too many leaks/water damage caused by these lines.

But, yeah you must use those insert to "support" the hose under compression ring
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Old 11-03-08, 12:44 PM
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I hate to say this, I hate those "plastic" water lines.. Get the copper ice maker lines instead. I've seen one too many leaks/water damage caused by these lines.

But, yeah you must use those insert to "support" the hose under compression ring


Man...that install kit seems to be more and more useless LOL.

I have a buddy who does pipefitting...I'll probably have him help me just install a true T-joint too instead of the saddle valve.

Guess I'll do the wiring and make sure everything with the plumbing is snug and correct and test her out. Then plan to switch to copper piping and tubing.


What about a flexible hose like used on toilets and sinks? The stainless braided ones?
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Old 11-03-08, 01:08 PM
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Man...that install kit seems to be more and more useless LOL.
Yeah, I did not get the kit for mine when I put mine in.

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I have a buddy who does pipefitting...I'll probably have him help me just install a true T-joint too instead of the saddle valve.
Good ideal.

Here is mine.




Quote:
What about a flexible hose like used on toilets and sinks? The stainless braided ones?
OMG are you kidding me!? You might as well leave the roof off of your house! :wall:






Just kidding! Those are fine.. They are braided, so that gives a better support, and got a true fitting on the ends.
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Old 11-03-08, 01:13 PM
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Good lord how many shutoffs do ya need!?

Or is the first one a pressure regulator?

I wonder about that on mine...perhaps I have my water pressure cranked too high. Just cranked it up a few weeks ago to get a little more gusto out of my shower and sprinklers.

I'll have to hit the plumbing dept though! I like the setup! :thumbup:
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Old 11-03-08, 01:40 PM
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Good lord how many shutoffs do ya need!?

Or is the first one a pressure regulator?
LOL One is not enough.

No, you are right it's a regulator.. The first year we had it, it drove my partner nuts with the hissing water, and he would crank the valve down to almost no water flow on the humidifier. So I added that last year, and all is well!
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Old 11-03-08, 05:27 PM
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I think I've done it!

I've turned the fan on....and when I switch the humidistat above 40 it clicks and I can hear the water flowing. So far I have no leaks, but I am going to switch it to copper t-junction and copper tubing just to be safe.

Its been warm here so the heat hasn't kicked on at all....but it seems to run correctly and nothing is burning or smoking!

You rock man! I like the pressure reg idea though, may go ahead and put one in just to be safe. Beer 4U2

I also put in a new filter and one of those gel pads for the scent on the filter...my house now smells like cinnamon and I"m about to puke....woah strong!
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Old 11-03-08, 05:44 PM
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I think I've done it!
Great!

Quote:
Its been warm here so the heat hasn't kicked on at all.
Yeah, it been warm here today too, had a record high of 74˚

Quote:
I like the pressure reg idea though, may go ahead and put one in just to be safe.
Try it with out it.. They are not cheap!

Quote:
I also put in a new filter and one of those gel pads for the scent on the filter...my house now smells like cinnamon and I"m about to puke....woah strong!
My mom did that once, I about fell over when I walked into the house..

After that she only put in 1/4 of it intead of the whole thing.
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Old 11-08-08, 02:53 PM
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I lasted about 10 hours with that gel insert and it went in the trash. :D


Quick question for you....everything is running great....but it seems like I'm having an awful lot of water coming out the drain. Once it kicks on, within 10 seconds a decent stream starts coming down the drain.

Maybe too much water pressure? Seems like such a waste of water.

Should I try closing the valve a little maybe so less water enters the humidifer? I'm not sure how much is actually draining each time, but man it seems like more than it should.

Its certainly not a drip drip like an AC unit.
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Old 11-08-08, 07:21 PM
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The unit will use about 2-3 gallons of water an hour if it ran non stop.

Do not shut down the valve, it is normal for the water to flow like this.. It's keeping the pad clean, and adding humidity into your home.
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Old 11-05-09, 09:21 PM
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The unit will use about 2-3 gallons of water an hour if it ran non stop.

Do not shut down the valve, it is normal for the water to flow like this.. It's keeping the pad clean, and adding humidity into your home.



Ok, obviously it has been a while since I have posted on here! Last season it worked great! I just went to change the filter and get her ready to run again this winter. I shut my "tap in" valve and all that good stuff....closed the bypass duct valve.

Went to open the water tap in valve...and it leaks now.

Is that fairly common with these cheap tap-in valves? I open it up and the top part of the valve wants to spray water everywhere. Should I spend the time to put a real valve in? Not sure the parts I'd need to connect down to a rubber hose.....

advice? I appreciate all the advice I got setting it up! Thanks to you guys I had it up and running! Now, year 2.... LOL
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Old 11-06-09, 09:51 AM
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Packing nut may not be tight, take a cressent wrench and tight the packing nut. It's the nut under them stem valve.

They are known to leak and has to be tighen, but I would suggest a shut of valve like you find under the sinks or toilet.
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Old 11-17-09, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Jay11J View Post
Packing nut may not be tight, take a cressent wrench and tight the packing nut. It's the nut under them stem valve.

They are known to leak and has to be tighen, but I would suggest a shut of valve like you find under the sinks or toilet.


Thanks....today is the first chance I've had to take a better look at it. I'll try to snug everything up.

If it all continues to leak, I'll pull this and put in a new one. I've never worked with copper pipes, but how hard can it be right? :D

Thanks again!!
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