Alarm Forum FAQ (Please read before posting)


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Old 03-04-05, 07:01 PM
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Alarm Forum FAQ (Please read before posting)

Alarm Forum FAQ (Please read before posting)
________________________________________
This is my first stab at making a FAQ for this forum: I invite all to please give me feedback on what will make it clearer or more comprehensive.

Alarm Forum FAQ

Rule #1: _Do not use system default commands unless you are sure about the details of your system!_ If you do so, you will have to recreate _all_ of the settings for all of your zones and system functions. With some systems, if you don't have the proper programming keypad installed, this can be very difficult, or even impossible, until you obtain the proper keypad.

Powering Down a System:
(On nearly all alarm systems, the programming information is stored in non-volatile memory, no settings will be lost on power down. On some brands/models you will need to reset the system clock.)

Nearly all security panels can be powered down in the same way. First, disconnect at least one of the battery leads. Next, remove AC power by:

(1) Unplugging the power transformer from its outlet. It’s usually beige, black or grey, and covers the bottom outlet. Usually it's on an adjacent wall to the location of the control cabinet, sometimes it can be more remote; in an attic near the access, or even in another room altogether.

OR

(2) Remove one or more of the power leads from the terminal strip inside the control cabinet (not the keypad). Most systems have a diagram on the inside of the door. On 90% of systems the first two positions on the terminal strip is the power input. Be sure to tape or wire nut the end(s) so that they don't touch each other or anything else. A momentary short will trash the transformer. (It’s 16vac, so it’s not hazardous level voltage).

OR

(3) Trip the breaker to the outlet the system gets power from. This is only useful for temporary service work, but may be easier than the other options.

What is the basic knowlege I need?
Alarm installation manuals are written with the assumption of at least basic electrical/electronics knowlege.
You need some degree of understanding of basic electrical and electronics terms and practices. Libraries and many online sites can provide the basic concepts that will make tackling an alarm project simpler.

The important concepts to understand include the difference between a series and parallel circuit; the difference between a normally open and normally closed circuit, and the use of basic testing tools.

"I can't understand the manual....":
Alarm manuals are not written like typical consumer electronics installation manuals. They are not linear. They are a reference, and you have to use the index/table of contents and take each task section by section. There's not really a definitive order that this stuff goes together, because every installation is by definition a custom setup. You will have to page flip back and forth. Sometimes critical information is in the glossary, or in a note on an illustration several pages away from the written instructions. Also realize that each manufacturer uses slightly different terminology for various functions (one companies "bypass" is another companies "shunt").

What tools do I need?
For trouble-shooting an existing system, the absolute minimum is basic hand tools like wire-strippers/crimpers (most of this is very small gauge wire), screwdrivers, and some means to test for continuity on a circuit. This is all 12vdc, except for the 16vac transformer, and you can do a surprising amount with an automotive test light, but having an inexpensive Volt/Ohm/Milliamp Meter, and learning to use it, can save you a world of headaches and frustration.

For more than the basics, like installing or modifying a system, you will need drills and bits that can go through aged wood (drilling even a 1/4 inch hole through the thickness of a old door header will push most consumer grade tools to their limit). You may find a few trips to the tool rental store in order.


How do I identify my system?
_Do not rely on the Keypad model_! Many alarm manufacturers use a common set of keypads on multiple models.

The first place to start is to look inside the door of the system enclosure. (90% of the time, there will be a diagram with the proper system name on the inside of the door).

Some alarms are re-branded (ADT, for example, has used several different hardware sources over the years) to identify the actual alarm hardware, there is usually a model number on the main PC board, usually on the main IC chip, or the edge of the PC board.

Similar model numbers do not always program alike; there is a huge difference between a DSC PC1550 and a DSC PC1555, for example.

How do I find Manuals?
Most manufacturers have user manuals available for public download.

Installation manuals can usually only be accessed by alarm installers who register with the website. There are third party websites that have installation manuals for download. Some are free, some charge a token fee for the download. Search using the phrases:
“Alarm Installation Manual (Brandname model number)".

"ADT" systems:
ADT doesn't make its own hardware. They contract out to other major manufacturers. Some of the systems are purely proprietary and made strictly for ADT, others are modified to varying degrees for ADT, but are variants of standard systems.

Focus 5 = Proprietary Artitech Panel
Focus 6 = Proprietary Artitech Panel
Focus 40 = Proprietary Panel
Focus 45U = Proprietary Panel
Focus 48 = Proprietary Panel
Focus 55 = Moose Z1100e?
Focus 75 = Proprietary Ademco Panel
Focus 100B = Proprietary Panel
Focus 200D = Proprietary Custom Ademco Panel
Focus 256 = Proprietary Panel
Focus D15 = DSC PC1550
Focus D32 = DSC PC5010 (Power832)
Focus D50 = DSC PC1555 (Power632)
Safewatch = ADT Caretaker+ or Z900, both proprietary
(must replace master chip & eeprom chip for takeovers on some models)
Safewatch Custom = Moose Z1100 with LCD Keypad
Safewatch Custom RF = ITI SXV
Safewatch Plus = ADT Proprietary version of ITI Caretaker Plus
(must replace master chip & eeprom chip for takeovers on some models)
Safewatch Plus/Entrepreneur = Moose Z910A, (Z900 with additional RAM)
Safewatch Plus RF = ADT Proprietary version of ITI Commander2000
Safewatch Pro = ADT Proprietary Moose panel, not sure of type.
Safewatch Pro 2000 = Vista-20SE
Safewatch Pro 3000 = Vista-20P
Safewatch Pro EZ = Custom Napco P801 (Cannot be downloaded using standard PCDWin

What is Installer Lockout?
This is a feature that is used by some installers to try to keep competing installers from “taking over” systems. Depending on the brand and model, this feature can be easy, hard, or impossible to defeat without access to the OEM tools.

I armed my system and it (a) switched to "stay" mode; (b) my door doesn't react when I open it?

Most modern alarm systems default to having some form of automatic stay mode that kicks in if you do not open and close an entry/exit door before the exit delay times out. This is a safety feature intended to prevent false alarms from people walking in front of their own motion detectors.

Even when you deliberately arm the system in stay mode, which usually has no audible exit countdown, the exit delay still runs, and the system doesn't actually arm until the exit delay times out.

Hardware Questions?

Keypads and controls are designed to match electronically, i.e. keypads are not interchangeable, sometimes not even within the same brand family.

There are generally 3 kinds: LED keypads that display zone status and other information by simply turning on and off one or more rows of LEDs. Fixed English displays that provide a limited vocabulary of words and numbers, and full Alphanumeric displays that can be programmed with descriptive words (and often multiple languages).

For a DIY situation, the Alpha keypad is generally the best choice (and for some systems, the only choice). It keeps you from having to learn hexadecimal and binary math, for one thing, and you spend less time page-flipping to interpret the information on the keypad during programming.

Wireless hardware is nearly always specific to the receiver it was designed to interact with. Each wireless device is a zone or slot. Generally, there cannot be more than one wireless device on a zone.

Hardwired contacts, motion detectors, glassbreak sensors, and other initiating devices are generally interchangeable between systems.

Wiring requirements: For most typical systems, door and window contacts can use 2 conductor wire. Motion detectors, Carbon Monoxide detectors, Glass break sensors, and some types of Smoke Detectors are generally 4-wire devices (2 for power, two for alarm connection).

Some systems accept 2-wire smoke detectors, and many brands make 2-wire addressable versions of common alarm devices (these usually aren't cheap, but can be the best solution for some situations).

Most system makers specify 22awg wire as a minimum. For longer (500ft+) runs, go with 18awg. I'd also consider 18ga for sirens and ac power in general if the run is fairly long (100ft+). Lighter wire _will_ work, just don't count on warranty claims.

Phone connections:
Alarms can be setup as stand alone systems. To connect them into the telephone lines, it needs to be done correctly, or else someone could prevent the system from dialing out by simply taking a house phone off the hook. This trick is called line siezure, and is accomplished by circuitry built into nearly all modern alarm controls.

The FCC and telecom providers require a means to disconnect alarm systems from the house wiring, for testing and repairs. This is accomplished using a
RJ-31x jack and cord. The basics of hooking this connection can be found at this article: How Do I ... Wire an RJ31X Jack? - HomeTech Solutions

What are Zones?
The absolute minimum zoning consists of 1 delay zone for the primary entry/exit door(s) and the perimeter (everything else). Needless to say, in a location with large numbers of windows and doors, you will want to break these up into more manageable groupings. For a small apartment, a 4 zone system might suffice, for most modern houses, 8 zone systems are the minimum, and even those can be a little cramped, without adding zone expanders. Most modern systems can be expanded to at least double their out of box zoning.

Smoke Detectors and Security panels:
Alarm system smoke detectors are a worthwhile investment. They are generally of a higher quality than the typical hardware store smoke detector. They last longer, generally are less prone to false alarms (if properly installed) and have the advantages of the system's battery backup and ability to call a monitoring center.
There are two main types. 4-wire smoke detectors are the most common, especially on older installations. These take a 4 conductor cable, two for alarm and two for power. 2-wire smoke detectors are becoming more common, and most modern panels have some accomodation for them, either in the form of a dedicated zone, a specific zone, or programming changes. Most wireless systems have smoke and heat detectors that work for them.

Unlike the typical security contact, fire devices like smokes and heat detectors have normally open contacts. Smokes should be wired in a single loop, with the last device in line having the end of line resistor (with a power supervision relay for UL compliant installations).

System Sensor: (System Sensor) is one of the industry standards for smoke detectors. The guides and other information available from them is a good place to start. Smoke detectors have pretty specific installation requirements and limitations, so read and heed.


Alarms and Voice over IP (VoIP)

At this date (April, 2005) the general consensus on using VoIP connections for security systems is that, while you _can_, the makers of the VoIP adaptors, and the makers of many alarm systems recommend against such a connection. Basically, if you choose to do so, you are pretty much on your own.

If you so choose, the security panel needs to be wired to the RJ-31x jack correctly so that the alarms line seizure function works correctly.

Be aware that some high speed alarm communication formats, like Contact ID, may not work with this setup (the compression technology of the VoIP system may not allow the information to pass through).

If you are in a situation where remote programming/operation of the system is being done over phone lines, this also may not work with VoIP.

Not all versions of VoIP will provide the voltages that some alarm panels use to verify the presence of a live telco line, and will thus generate a phone line trouble.

Software changes to the VoIP system can disable alarm communication, or render it unreliable.

Finally, the VoIP adaptor, the router, and cable modem all need back up power, or you will have no communications in the event of a power failure.

I'm sure that in the future, these issues will be resolved by both alarm makers, and VoIP makers; but this is the current state of the art. For more information on connecting VOIP to an alarm system correctly, see this article: Alarm-to-VoIP Connection: It?s Possible, but not Recommended - Kinks and Hints - SDM -- New Directions for Security Systems & Integration.

Brand Specific:

Honeywell/Ademco (and its rebranded clones):

"I can't see the zone programming on my keypad..."
Honeywell/Ademco design system generally need a "2-line alphanumeric" keypad (6139, 6160 or equivalent) to access the programming menus. Zone programming and wireless device enrollment _can_ be done without one, but it is _VERY DIFFICULT_, even for people who are very familiar with the programming sequence.

Retrieving Installer code
Nearly all Ademco family (this includes First Alert, Security Link, and several ADT models) panels can retrieve the Installer code by disconnecting the battery, then the AC power. Wait a minute, then reconnect power in the opposite order. Within 50 seconds, on any keypad press * + # at the same time. Unless the system has had an installer lockout feature activated, the panel should go into program mode. The details by system will vary, but the programming section number that shows on the display will be the location for the installer code (on _most_ panels this will be 20). Key in # and the location number, and the panel will read back the installer code one digit at a time. Exit program mode using *99.

To turn off the dialer on _most_ Honeywell/Ademco panels (and clones):
Once in programming enter *41* and *42*. This erases the dial out phone numbers and turns off the dialer. Check your install manual, there are a few obscure models that the phone numbers are in a different location.

DSC:

Power Series Panel Codes and Defaulting -- The Power Series panels (PC1555/Power 632; PC5010/Power 832; PC5020/Power 864; and several variations) all use a common programming model.

First rule of thumb: _There is no bypass for the installer code!_ If the installer code has been changed from the factory default (1555, 5010, 5020, and 5555 have all been used on one model or another), then the only way to get into programming, short of a lucky guess, is to default the panel.

If the installer lockout feature has been turned on (determined by powering down the panel; on power-up the phone relay on the main board will click about 10 times if the lockout feature has been turned on), then the manual default will factory default all panel settings _except_ for the installer code.

The basic hardware default for a _Power Series_ panel is as follows:
(Check the installer manual _first_; there can be small variations on this with some of the variant models)
1. Remove AC and battery from the panel.
2. Remove all wires from the Zone 1 and PGM1 terminals.
3. With a piece of wire short the Zone 1 terminal to the PGM1
terminal.
4. Apply AC power to the main panel.
5. When Zone Light 1 is lit on the keypad the default is complete.
6. Remove AC power from the control
7. Reconnect all original wiring and power up the control.


DSC:
My programming attempts do not match the program form in the manual I have.
There are multiple versions of the "power series" panels (632, 832, 864). Some have very small programming changes from the original version, others (the CP-01 versions) have major changes in important programming areas. There are not a lot of visible differences, and both versions are sold concurrently. There are also small technical changes that were only documented in technical dispatches sent to dealers.

DSC: I defaulted my panel and now all of the zones show "open".
A lot of DSC panel installers choose to not use the End of Line Resistors (for a myriad of reasons) and instead choose to use a feature in the programming that turns off the requirement. When the panel is defaulted, this requirement is turned back on.

The specific location that has to be changed will vary by model, but will usually be in the system options sections of the program.

On the most common, the "Power series" panels (PC 1555, PC 5010, PC 5020, PC 1616, PC 1832, PC 1864, and their variants), this will be programming location 13 where you turn ON Option 1 to disable the need for resistors.

DSC: The power was off/I powered down the panel, and now the trouble light is on:
Nearly all DSC models require a clock reset after a loss of primary and backup battery power. The keystrokes for fixing this will vary by model, but is generally pretty easy to resolve. It's a user manual issue

DSC: Power series panels (632, 832, 864); trouble 3 (telephone line trouble) and/or trouble 4 (failure to communicate) shows on new/defaulted system.

DSC panels default to the communicator turned on, and TLM (telephone line monitoring) turned on. If you will not be using the communicator functions, you have to turn them off by entering programming, turning off option 7 in section 015, and option 1 in section 380.

DSC Power series keypad stopped responding during programming process:
It's easy to accidentally set a keypad as a "global" or to a non-existant partition. When addressing the keypads if you enter 01 (for example) for the address you have set it as "global" which means it displays no information until you select a partition. Press and hold 1 until the keypad wakes up. Reenter keypad programming and change it to 11 (partition 1, keypad 1).

DSC PC1500/1550 Installer lockout removal (note: this only works on PC1500/1550 and not all models of those):
To reset the Installer's code to 1500:
1. With power on, short default pins and type * 8 0000
2. Remove short from default pins and press 91 to remove the lockout.
3. Press 20, then 1500, then press # #.


Napco MA1000/1008E system default (many thanks to MrMister)

The steps:

1) Power down.
2) Take a jumper from neg aux and apply to 5th pin from top right end of microprocessor.
3) Power up
4) Hold-down button '8' for 2-3 seconds, and press 456789 (default dealer code)
5) By now, you should be in dealer programming mode
6) Remove the short : the wire as at step 2
7) You should now be able to access the dealer program.


For recent revisions of the 1000e you may need to jumper
from IC pin 25 to terminal 5 on the terminal strip, instead of pin 5 on the IC chip. Otherwise, follow the same directions.
 

Last edited by MrRonFL; 05-02-09 at 03:10 PM.
 

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