Code requirements when replacing existing wiring/fixtures

[JustinG]

When we bought our house (in Berkeley, CA), about half the wiring was modern ('98 or later) Romex, the other half was original Knob & Tube. I'm upgrading the remaining Knob & Tube wiring to Romex, and in the process fixing any obvious safety issues (e.g. miswired receptacles, disconnected grounds, 2-wire ungrounded fixtures, etc.)

What I don't know is whether I'm required to fix all Electrical Code issues at the same time I'm doing the wiring upgrade of a particular fixture.

For example, all my bedrooms' clothes closets have pull-chain, bare-bulb fixtures, which I'm replacing (for safety/fire reasons) with enclosed-globe lighting fixtures at the same time I'm replacing their source wiring from K&T to Romex. Since the latest Code requires all closet light fixtures to be operated via a wall switch, do I also need to add a wall switch when adding the new fixture and new wiring? Or am I allowed to replace a pull-chain, bare-bulb fixture with a pull-chain, enclosed-globe fixture?

[ibpooks]

Originally Posted by JustinG

What I don't know is whether I'm required to fix all Electrical Code issues at the same time I'm doing the wiring upgrade of a particular fixture.

The code basically allows you to leave K&T circuits as-is or to replace it with modern wiring. Piecemeal upgrades really aren't allowed. Simple fixture replacement does not usually count as a modification of the circuit, however adding the switch does count.

My recommendation is to abandon the K&T and install new modern circuits where they are needed. I do not recommend interconnecting the new and the old.

Because this involves flush mount lighting there is an additional complication in that most modern light fixtures require 90 degree wiring. K&T is at best 60 degree so a simple fixture replacement really limits what fixtures you can use. Furthermore, the types of fixtures which are allowed in closets is already pretty small so you're really hamstrung by the old K&T. Another vote in the "abandon and replace" column.

The requirement for closet lighting for an enclosed incandescent fixture is 12" clearance from the nearest point of storage (edge of top shelf or top of cloths rod). The clearance is 6" for an enclosed fluorescent or LED fixtures. If you cannot meet either clearance due to the size of the closet, then only small battery powered lights are allowed.

[JustinG]

Thanks for the quick reply! Some additional notes and questions are below.

Originally Posted by ibpooks

The code basically allows you to leave K&T circuits as-is or to replace it with modern wiring. Piecemeal upgrades really aren't allowed.

My recommendation is to abandon the K&T and install new modern circuits where they are needed. I do not recommend interconnecting the new and the old.

Unfortunately, a piecemeal upgrade is what the house had when I bought it. The service entrance has been upgraded recently, and all circuits started as romex from the service entrance, but most of these circuits have a junction box which connects into K&T wiring. So most of the circuits were already a hybrid of Romex and K&T. One circuit even starts as romex, moves to K&T in a basement junction box, and then moves back to Romex in the attic!

I am gradually fixing this. What I'm doing is removing the K&T from one circuit at a time and running Romex to the same fixtures and receptacles that the K&T parts of the circuit were previously supplying. In most cases I'm fishing romex through the same holes that I just pulled the (now dead) K&T out of.

Also, while I'm working on each circuit, I'm replacing any ancient fixtures, switches, and receptacles which don't support proper grounding, and also replacing ancient boxes with to-code-or-larger modern boxes.

Overall, does this sound like a reasonable approach?

re: the rules for closet light fixtures, I think I'm OK with these three:
1) enclosed fixtures - currently planning to use enclosed, surface-mount incandescent fixtures in all closets except one where I only have 10" clearance, there I'll use surface-mount fluorescent.
2) 12" clearance - all current fixtures are mounted over the doors, 2+ feet from shelf space in all cases but the one I mentioned above.
3) 90-degree wiring - this is OK, since there won't be any K&T on these circuits (or any old romex either) once I'm done.

But the wall-switch requirement has me worried. And adding 4 closets' worth of wall switches is a lot of additional work I'd love to avoid if possible, but I'll do it if I must.

But I'm not adding a fixture, only upgrading the fixture and upgrading the wiring between an upstream junction box and the fixture. Does that constitute enough of a change to make the wall-switch requirement kick in? Or can I simply replace the existing bare-bulb, pull-chain closet fixtures with enclosed, pull-chain fixtures?