Rugs, Carpets and Carpeting - Seam Work
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terrywouldbe
07-20-02, 06:11 AM
When straight edging for a seam, should just the backing of the carpet be cut or should the pile also be cut with the backing? I'm concerned here with the appearance of the seam after cutting.
The fellow with whom I used to work put together some of the prettiest seams you'd ever want to see. He and I, of course, knew where they were, and could, therefore, see them, but to the untrained eye, there was just no seam there. Customers knew there was a seam somewhere, but they rarely could find it. I don't know if he just knew something that other installers didn't or if he just enjoyed making it look good, doing it right, and avoiding callbacks from disgruntled customers.
Also, are there any websites that illustrate power stretching techniques? I have found very few books on the subject of detailed carpet installation.
I should note that I was taught and like to adhear to the principle of stretching a carpet as tight as a guitar string. That power stretcher would come out of his van on the smallest of jobs. Sadly, everyone I know just likes to boot a rug in whenever they can get away with it, and not use a stretcher at all. Also, that (lazy man's hook, as I call it) that now comes with the stretcher to avoid having to assemble the whole thing and stretch from wall to wall. When did that appear in the industry? There's no way you can get a good stretch with one of those. Or, convince me otherwise :rolleyes:
I haven't installed in quite some time, but I live in an apartment whose landlord hires professional Installers (or should I call them "layers"?) Anyway, after about 7 months of wear, the carpet can be picked up in the center with your thumb and forefinger rather easlily. Seams are in the wrong place, come apart, etc. etc. It's all just exhausting.
Anyway, I'd just like some thoughts from you guys on this. I am thinking of installing the next carpet that goes down in my own apartment and just needed some advise.
Thanks,
-Terry
The fellow with whom I used to work put together some of the prettiest seams you'd ever want to see. He and I, of course, knew where they were, and could, therefore, see them, but to the untrained eye, there was just no seam there. Customers knew there was a seam somewhere, but they rarely could find it. I don't know if he just knew something that other installers didn't or if he just enjoyed making it look good, doing it right, and avoiding callbacks from disgruntled customers.
Also, are there any websites that illustrate power stretching techniques? I have found very few books on the subject of detailed carpet installation.
I should note that I was taught and like to adhear to the principle of stretching a carpet as tight as a guitar string. That power stretcher would come out of his van on the smallest of jobs. Sadly, everyone I know just likes to boot a rug in whenever they can get away with it, and not use a stretcher at all. Also, that (lazy man's hook, as I call it) that now comes with the stretcher to avoid having to assemble the whole thing and stretch from wall to wall. When did that appear in the industry? There's no way you can get a good stretch with one of those. Or, convince me otherwise :rolleyes:
I haven't installed in quite some time, but I live in an apartment whose landlord hires professional Installers (or should I call them "layers"?) Anyway, after about 7 months of wear, the carpet can be picked up in the center with your thumb and forefinger rather easlily. Seams are in the wrong place, come apart, etc. etc. It's all just exhausting.
Anyway, I'd just like some thoughts from you guys on this. I am thinking of installing the next carpet that goes down in my own apartment and just needed some advise.
Thanks,
-Terry
Carpets Done Wright
07-20-02, 09:27 AM
Well straight edging from the back is my 4th tool in my arsenal of seam cutting techniques.
1st would be to row cut the carpet, by running an awl, knitting needle, flat screwdriver, or even a pocket comb, down the row, thus separating the nap. Now your your top cutter/cushionback cutter/slide knife, what ever you want to call it in your neck of the woods, and run the blade closest to the side your seaming edge will be, and slide it cutting down the row. If the nose crosses over the row created by your row runner, stop and use the row runner again to stay on the row. Now do your fill the same way.
2nd would be to run a row and cut one side, and lay it over the next peice and do what is called "trace cutting" with the cushionback cutter/slide knife.
3rd would be to row cut one side and striaght edge the next.
4th would be to straight edge both pieces if I couldn't get a row ran in either side.
5th would be double cutting.
Seam sealing with latex seam sealer is mandatory with all residential tuffed carpets!!! As per CRI standards.
http://www.carpet-rug.com/
Powerstretching diagrams are posted on the CRI website above, in the 104 & 105 installation minimum standards. You should download them and print them both out for good reading and a good reference when they don't want you to do it right and cut corners, only to blame you later for the failure!
Besure to charge adequately for your services!! $3.50 and up to install base grade in an empty job. Or at least $30 per hour, plus materials to start, if you choose to go that pay route.
DON'T BE A HACK!!!!
Have you ever heard of CFI?
http://www.cfiinstallers.com/
1st would be to row cut the carpet, by running an awl, knitting needle, flat screwdriver, or even a pocket comb, down the row, thus separating the nap. Now your your top cutter/cushionback cutter/slide knife, what ever you want to call it in your neck of the woods, and run the blade closest to the side your seaming edge will be, and slide it cutting down the row. If the nose crosses over the row created by your row runner, stop and use the row runner again to stay on the row. Now do your fill the same way.
2nd would be to run a row and cut one side, and lay it over the next peice and do what is called "trace cutting" with the cushionback cutter/slide knife.
3rd would be to row cut one side and striaght edge the next.
4th would be to straight edge both pieces if I couldn't get a row ran in either side.
5th would be double cutting.
Seam sealing with latex seam sealer is mandatory with all residential tuffed carpets!!! As per CRI standards.
http://www.carpet-rug.com/
Powerstretching diagrams are posted on the CRI website above, in the 104 & 105 installation minimum standards. You should download them and print them both out for good reading and a good reference when they don't want you to do it right and cut corners, only to blame you later for the failure!
Besure to charge adequately for your services!! $3.50 and up to install base grade in an empty job. Or at least $30 per hour, plus materials to start, if you choose to go that pay route.
DON'T BE A HACK!!!!
Have you ever heard of CFI?
http://www.cfiinstallers.com/
terrywouldbe
07-25-02, 01:45 AM
Thanks C D W. Actually, I have seen my bro use the row cutter and cushion back cutter many times. Never seen him use seam sealant tho, hmm :o
Anyway, I remember him usually cutting from the back, and it seemed as though the nap would be cut off from one side, but left intact on the other (i.e; the fill side). Maybe not though, it's been a looong time.
Anyhow, thanks for the links. And no, I have never heard of these industries. How long have they been around? I remember my bro telling me "there's just no schools out there that teach you how to install rug - gotta learn it on your own". Course he's been doing it 20+ years, maybe he was right back then???
Thanks,
-Terry
Anyway, I remember him usually cutting from the back, and it seemed as though the nap would be cut off from one side, but left intact on the other (i.e; the fill side). Maybe not though, it's been a looong time.
Anyhow, thanks for the links. And no, I have never heard of these industries. How long have they been around? I remember my bro telling me "there's just no schools out there that teach you how to install rug - gotta learn it on your own". Course he's been doing it 20+ years, maybe he was right back then???
Thanks,
-Terry