Upholstery and Fabrics - affixing padded headboard
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dianemarg
07-12-02, 08:49 AM
Hi! I am planning to make a padded headboard for our queen size bed. However, although I can find lots of info on how to actually pad the plywood, I can't find any info on how to actually affix the padded headboard to the wall! I realize it will be screwed into studs but where do you screw it through the headboard. I don't want the screws to be visible and I want to ensure the headboard is securely fastened. I can't imagine a few screws in the bottom of the headboard would be sufficient. Any ideas/feedback would be appreciated! Thanks!
jczxohn
07-24-02, 10:25 PM
The easiest way to fix the headboard to the wall is with a "pocket fastener". You can find them in most hardware stores. The back piece fastens to the wall, preferably to a stud, although one screw to the stud and one molly bolt for the other hole can be used. This piece has a flat loop or "pocket" on
it. The other piece has a "tongue" on it which slips into the "pocket" of the wall piece. When assembled the fastener makes the headboard stick out 1/4" or so from the wall, which can be disguised by putting heavy piping or welt around the back before installing. If you haven't already upholstered the headboard, the best way to install the "tongue" section is with "T-nuts" rather than screws. Much more secure for a heavy item like a headboard. Do all the hardware installation before you upholster. Finally, The bottom of the headboard should be fastened too, to keep it from riding up and out of the pocket.
Two of the largest pocket fasteners you can find will probably carry the weight, esp. if you get some nice heavy screws into studs down below the mattress line. The most difficult part is getting everything to line up. One trick is to put the headboard where you want it, level it, and drill a small hole through the tongue section, headboard frame, and into the wall and hopefully a stud for each hole. Don't try to put more than one molly in a six inch square area. It will weaken the sheetrock.
Sorry it's taken so long to respond. Been on vacation. Good luck. If you have any other questions, I should be more prompt.
it. The other piece has a "tongue" on it which slips into the "pocket" of the wall piece. When assembled the fastener makes the headboard stick out 1/4" or so from the wall, which can be disguised by putting heavy piping or welt around the back before installing. If you haven't already upholstered the headboard, the best way to install the "tongue" section is with "T-nuts" rather than screws. Much more secure for a heavy item like a headboard. Do all the hardware installation before you upholster. Finally, The bottom of the headboard should be fastened too, to keep it from riding up and out of the pocket.
Two of the largest pocket fasteners you can find will probably carry the weight, esp. if you get some nice heavy screws into studs down below the mattress line. The most difficult part is getting everything to line up. One trick is to put the headboard where you want it, level it, and drill a small hole through the tongue section, headboard frame, and into the wall and hopefully a stud for each hole. Don't try to put more than one molly in a six inch square area. It will weaken the sheetrock.
Sorry it's taken so long to respond. Been on vacation. Good luck. If you have any other questions, I should be more prompt.
dianemarg
07-25-02, 07:22 AM
jczxohn, Thanks a bunch!! That was wonderful info. We haven't upholstered the headboard yet but better yet, we haven't finished framing the wall it will be going onto. I will have my dear husband put in some backing where we will need it and make some notes as to where it is and then he can be sure to affix to wood through the sheetrock. Thanks again for the advice - I would never have come up with that one on my own!!! Have a great day and hope you had a good holiday!