Decks, Patios, Porches and Docks - Sanding a deck or any outdoor project
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yardnut
06-19-02, 07:34 AM
My deck will be two years old in July. Actually there is an older small section (no idea how old that is, but house is 9 years old) and then the newer, larger deck. I have noticed that the the stair hand rails on the old section are exceptionally rough and splintery, but I have yet to do anything about them. When I finished building my bench arbor, I decided to do go ahead and thouroughly sand it as I wanted no splinters - and I remembered those handrails. I haven't done the trellis yet, but now that the rest looks so nice and smooth, I am wondering if I should sand that as well - splinters should not be an issue up there, but will it make a difference in the appearance of the stain when applied?
And while sanding, I checked out the rails of my new deck, and darned if they are not splintered and rough as well!!! And I put CWF on them last year to boot! Should I have sanded the deck first??? Obviously the guy that built the deck felt no need, so is that usually done? The deck is PT lumber. I went ahead and sanded down those rails, and I will have to restain them now, and I probably will do all the rails while I'm at it. I guess my overall question is....how important is sanding in the lasting appearance of the PT wood? I had thought the wood finish product would take care of that, even in full sun.
And while sanding, I checked out the rails of my new deck, and darned if they are not splintered and rough as well!!! And I put CWF on them last year to boot! Should I have sanded the deck first??? Obviously the guy that built the deck felt no need, so is that usually done? The deck is PT lumber. I went ahead and sanded down those rails, and I will have to restain them now, and I probably will do all the rails while I'm at it. I guess my overall question is....how important is sanding in the lasting appearance of the PT wood? I had thought the wood finish product would take care of that, even in full sun.
fewalt
06-19-02, 12:52 PM
Hello Yardnut,
I have only sanded occasionally, using either 100 or 150 grit paper. Sometimes after pressure washing some 'fuzzies' can develop. It is usually just the grain raising slightly. Hand rails and any barefoot area is primarily what I have concentrated on. A quick once-over with my 6 inch random orbit sander does the trick.
Stain MAY go on more evenly with a light sanding, but I still limit it to the hand rails. If you think your arbor needs a light going over, by all means give it a go. You are probably gong to be the only one who notices.
Most deck cleaing contractors won't sand unless they have inadvertantly splintered or 'fuzzied' the wood with their PW. Most fuzzies will flake off in a short time, but you still don't want any splinters in yor hands.
Generally, a good stain will be absorbed by the wood whether it has been lightly sanded or not.
I hope this has helped.
But like I mentioned in the other post, some stains will not absorb properly if applied over an existing stain. As info, you should get three (maybe four) years out of the F&P. It depends mostly on the sun's UV.
fred
I have only sanded occasionally, using either 100 or 150 grit paper. Sometimes after pressure washing some 'fuzzies' can develop. It is usually just the grain raising slightly. Hand rails and any barefoot area is primarily what I have concentrated on. A quick once-over with my 6 inch random orbit sander does the trick.
Stain MAY go on more evenly with a light sanding, but I still limit it to the hand rails. If you think your arbor needs a light going over, by all means give it a go. You are probably gong to be the only one who notices.
Most deck cleaing contractors won't sand unless they have inadvertantly splintered or 'fuzzied' the wood with their PW. Most fuzzies will flake off in a short time, but you still don't want any splinters in yor hands.
Generally, a good stain will be absorbed by the wood whether it has been lightly sanded or not.
I hope this has helped.
But like I mentioned in the other post, some stains will not absorb properly if applied over an existing stain. As info, you should get three (maybe four) years out of the F&P. It depends mostly on the sun's UV.
fred