Insulation, Radiant and Vapor Barriers - Ceiling light into shop/garage
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alltire
05-19-02, 10:48 AM
I was hoping that you might be able to answer a couple insulation questions on my 8 month old 45' X 56' pole barn that I built (and am still finishing) . I have a 175,000 btu gas fired direct radiant heater that runs the 56 foot length of my building and directs downward (of course) to the concrete floor. I used this heater a few times this past "Minnesota" winter (luckily a fairly warm winter), but without insulation installed, it was not very effective. It would eventually heat the floor (from 14' above) and I could work on things that were close to the path of the infrared emission. The steel pole barn with small air gaps, and trim unsealed, did nothing for holding any of the warmth that the objects may have transferred to the air.
I am insulating this summer with Icynene foam, and expect to seal up the building totally. Finally, here's the dilemma; I have translucent panels on the south side of the roof and the south wall that I want to keep, to let sunlight in. These panels on the roof are 8' long X 36" wide and are placed every other panel on the lowest grade of the roof (near the gutter). In other words there is a 36" steel panel every other panel, then a 36" translucent panel, then steel again, and so on. The rest of the way toward the ridge cap (after the 8' translucent panel) is 36" sheet metal as is standard for a pole building. Also, the top 4' of that wall (below the gutter on the south side of the building) is also this translucent panel running the entire length of the 56'. Again, these panels let a great amount of light into the building, so I don't want to cover them up with insulation. My plans are to use 1/8" plexiglass on the inside of the wood that these panels are all attached to, and make sure that all panels are sealed with caulk, or insulation. I can see 3.5" of dead air at the translucent roof panels and a 5.5" dead air space between the wall panels. As long as I seal these panels (inside and out) will there be enough insulating factor to hold heat (that doesn't rise), as it is directed to the floor. I'm told that for every 1" of dead air that I'll get an "R" factor of one; do you know this to be true? I've checked into Lexan that is multi-layered, and the panels will cost over $1500.00 to order, and only give an R3 insulation factor at 1" thick (they're 3 layers of honeycomb).
I know I've rambled on and on, but any help with this would be greatly appreciated, and if you can't answer my questions, do you know anyone who can?
I do understand that the heat is going to rise as the air warms, but I'm hoping that the infrared "push to the floor" will help with holding on to the heat longer.
Thank you,
Joe Saunders
I am insulating this summer with Icynene foam, and expect to seal up the building totally. Finally, here's the dilemma; I have translucent panels on the south side of the roof and the south wall that I want to keep, to let sunlight in. These panels on the roof are 8' long X 36" wide and are placed every other panel on the lowest grade of the roof (near the gutter). In other words there is a 36" steel panel every other panel, then a 36" translucent panel, then steel again, and so on. The rest of the way toward the ridge cap (after the 8' translucent panel) is 36" sheet metal as is standard for a pole building. Also, the top 4' of that wall (below the gutter on the south side of the building) is also this translucent panel running the entire length of the 56'. Again, these panels let a great amount of light into the building, so I don't want to cover them up with insulation. My plans are to use 1/8" plexiglass on the inside of the wood that these panels are all attached to, and make sure that all panels are sealed with caulk, or insulation. I can see 3.5" of dead air at the translucent roof panels and a 5.5" dead air space between the wall panels. As long as I seal these panels (inside and out) will there be enough insulating factor to hold heat (that doesn't rise), as it is directed to the floor. I'm told that for every 1" of dead air that I'll get an "R" factor of one; do you know this to be true? I've checked into Lexan that is multi-layered, and the panels will cost over $1500.00 to order, and only give an R3 insulation factor at 1" thick (they're 3 layers of honeycomb).
I know I've rambled on and on, but any help with this would be greatly appreciated, and if you can't answer my questions, do you know anyone who can?
I do understand that the heat is going to rise as the air warms, but I'm hoping that the infrared "push to the floor" will help with holding on to the heat longer.
Thank you,
Joe Saunders