Painting - Painting cedar siding-no vapor barrier on interior walls
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jandrewnels
03-19-02, 10:22 AM
Our 1928 Wisconsin home has aluminum siding over the original 3" lapped cedar siding. We want to remove the aluminum and repaint the original cedar. The cedar is not primed on its backside and I assume the original paint is oil. I'm almost certain there is no vapor barrier in the walls - looks like cellulose insulation was blown into the originally empty wall cavities. I'm concerned with the problems I've heard moisture can cause. Would stripping the paint to the wood and repainting with latex primer and latex top coat be the way to go?
Appreciate any opinions.
Thanks,
JA
Appreciate any opinions.
Thanks,
JA
KeithP
03-23-02, 04:24 PM
Moisture transfer can indeed cause big problems. If you were to apply the siding today, it would be primed on both sides and four edges first, then installed. Vapour can lift a non-permeable coating. I also assume the basecoat is oil and lead-based paint. Stripping that can be hazardous and perhaps illegal, if not done properly. The trouble with cedar is that even after a long time, the tannins in the wood fibre can leach out and bleed through most finishes, knots especially. Great care must be taken most times to seal cedar before painting or staining. If however, it looks well and there is no bleeding you might just be in luck. Having a respected contractor do an inspection might be to your advantage. A historical home should be restored properly and I assume this is your plan. Some painters may want to burn and shellac any knots found before priming with oil, then topcoating with latex. If you were here, I would have a technical rep from one of my suppliers do a no cost inspection and job spec for you. Better to see a job like this before offering too much advice really. Hope this gives you a few options to consider first. :)