Bricks, Masonry, Asphalt and Concrete - experience using Peel Away 1

I'm in the process of stripping some interior brick using "Peel Away1". I was under the impression that it would remove mutiple layers of paint regardless of the type (lead). It has done a pretty good job at taking most of the paint off (appr 3 layers) but I'm still having to do a tremendous amount of scrapping. I'm leaving the solution on for 24 hours before removing and trying to apply it according to the manufacturers instructions 1/8 -1/4 inch thick. It appears that the bottom layer is giving me the most trouble. I suspect it is in fact leadbase due to the grayish color and hardness.

Any suggestions on how I can get this product to work better or am I asking for unrealistic results?
Could also use advice on cleaning off the residue. Because all the paint is not coming off part of the residue I believe is from the paint not the Peel Away product. I can't power wash due to hardwood floors.

This is an old warehouse which I'm trying to renovate for retail so I'd like to make it look as clean / original as possible.

Thanks in Advance
JAF

Jaf,

I used Peel Away 7 (supposedly stronger than 1) on
a large interior brick wall and had the same problem -it turned the paint into a semi pastey form- but it was still on the wall and, despite much scraping, a lot remained. It didn't 'peel' off at all. I eventually sanded (with a grinder)
the whole wall (20'X 11') -very very labor intensive but it did the job. Peel Away helped a little but left much to be desired -especially considering the cost. If you don't have many many
hours to spend sanding, perhaps you should think of other alternatives to exposed brick.

Herb

The first layer of paint is the only layer that was absorbed into the clay. The key would be knowing what type of brick surface was painted... sandface, smooth common, wavetex, barktex, wirecut?

Sandface - that would be the best to release the paint...
Common - slick, almost like a clay tile, easy to clean...
Wavetex/Barkex - increased natural surface area, very difficult...
Wirecut - natural surface, also very difficult

Unfortunately, it's never a good idea to paint brick, because once painted, it is usually very difficult to return them to their prior look.

Good luck.

www.southsidebuilders.com

Sorry i did not get back to you sooner. PEEL AWAY I only rquires that the original coat of paint be oil based and it will remove all of the paint in one application (oil/latex). After removing the product (usually a 24 hour dwell time) the surface has to be washed down with water and it sounds like in both instances this was not done. PEEL AWAY I emulsifies each layer of paint and it then mixes in with the paste for the removal process. There is left a residue of paste and emulsified paint thus the requirement to be cleaned with water. Visit thenweb site at www.peelaway.com for more info or call Dumond Chemicals.

I appreciate all of your input.

HY, the website stated that PA1 is designed to work best with lead base paints so I'm not sure why it isnt? Unless I'm mistaken on what type of paint the first layer is.

I'm still experimenting with the clean up. On some of the brick- which was scrapped totally clean, the residue will probaby come off with one good cleaning (scrubbing), maybe two. The other problem areas are going to take at least 2 maybe 3 cleanings.
I've also decided to give some of the more extreme areas another treatment of PA1. What's happening is the paint that is not coming off is smearing a residue that will continue to happen until removed.
The walls look great WET, but when dry appear pinkish.

Anyone have an idea on what would cause oxidation? I also have one section of the wall that has a white (fluffy/airy type) haze that keeps re-appearing, even after I brush it off and clean.

Just to give you an idea, I've spent at least 70 man hours, plus over $1,200 in materials alone on 2 walls approximately 45 ft long by 12 ft high. This is definetly a larger project than I anticipated.

thanks
jaf

I am pleased you followed up on my reply to you. If the clean down is done right after you remove the product so the surface is still moist it will be a lot easier to do. Use a scrub brush with a bucket of clean water agitating the surface and then clean with a good heavy duty sponge. That will allow you to do the clean up without creating a real mess. As to cost PEEL AWAY I usually does about twenty sq. ft to a gallon. When you purchase the five gallon buckets at about $20 a gallon that equates out to about a $1 per sq. ft. but it should remove all of the paint in one application so you should not have to do it two and three times. As for the white haze you are getting after you clean the surface that is alkalinity and I suggest you use straight white vinegar (spray it on) and after about three hours just wash it off and that white haze will disappear. PEEL AWAY I has been used to remove lead paint for the past fifteen years so it is not a coating that the product will not work. Any more questions just call our office and we will be glad to discuss it with you.