Solid Hardwood, Engineered and Laminate Flooring - Hardwood Flooring
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BillH
02-02-02, 12:19 PM
We're laying hardwood flooring right now, is there a mix you can make with the sawdust to fill holes and cracks?
twelvepole
02-02-02, 01:32 PM
Cracks between boards in hardwood floors should not be filled because fillers will eventually fail and pop out due to expansion/contraction of boards due to temperature and humidity
conditions. Cracks at ends of boards are sometimes filled because expansion/contraction tends to be less of an issue along the length of the boards. Filling should be done prior to sanding and finishing. Dents, holes, and gouges can also be filled prior to sanding and finishing. If you are going to stain the floor, the filler may not accept stain in the same manner as the wood and where you used filler will be noticeable. If you are going to stain, some recommend staining first and then filling using a color putty that matches the color of the stain or knead colors together to achieve a match.
Excess putty will have to be removed by sanding on unstained floors or using denatured alcohol on stained floors or the putty haze will show through the finish. Never use denatured alcohol to wipe an alcohol-based finish such as alcohol-based shellac. Test procedure in inconspicuous place before beginning and to assure denatured alcohol will have no ill effects on your stain or finish. Denatured alcohol typically has no ill effects on most finishes. Always test first. There are also touch up kits that can be purchased for touching up and finishing after the floor has been finished.
Wood glue and saw dust can be mixed to form a dough and used to fill holes. A little glue (very little) can be applied to the hole, the wood dough forced into the hole, and then rubbed over with some saw dust. Let dry and sand. By rubbing over with saw dust, the top layer of the filler will match the wood and will be less noticeable if staining.
Go to www.finishingwoodfloors.com for helpful info.
conditions. Cracks at ends of boards are sometimes filled because expansion/contraction tends to be less of an issue along the length of the boards. Filling should be done prior to sanding and finishing. Dents, holes, and gouges can also be filled prior to sanding and finishing. If you are going to stain the floor, the filler may not accept stain in the same manner as the wood and where you used filler will be noticeable. If you are going to stain, some recommend staining first and then filling using a color putty that matches the color of the stain or knead colors together to achieve a match.
Excess putty will have to be removed by sanding on unstained floors or using denatured alcohol on stained floors or the putty haze will show through the finish. Never use denatured alcohol to wipe an alcohol-based finish such as alcohol-based shellac. Test procedure in inconspicuous place before beginning and to assure denatured alcohol will have no ill effects on your stain or finish. Denatured alcohol typically has no ill effects on most finishes. Always test first. There are also touch up kits that can be purchased for touching up and finishing after the floor has been finished.
Wood glue and saw dust can be mixed to form a dough and used to fill holes. A little glue (very little) can be applied to the hole, the wood dough forced into the hole, and then rubbed over with some saw dust. Let dry and sand. By rubbing over with saw dust, the top layer of the filler will match the wood and will be less noticeable if staining.
Go to www.finishingwoodfloors.com for helpful info.
Elite Flooring/Ken Fisher
02-03-02, 01:57 PM
Bill:
In the case of prefinished hardwood floors use a latex type filler. Most manufactures provide the stuff in matching colors . If not you can always find some colored silicone caulk at any home center. I'm sure that recommendation may rattle some people....but..
I recall waiting on some of the worthless Bruce filler on a job not long ago. It was needed for filling "top nailed areas" and minor end joint cracks or mismilling. I didn't wait and headed to the local Ace HW and found what I needed. Incidentally the job was for a local homebuilder(his home), and he spent all of his day in the trenches opposed to the ones that play golf four times a week.
We used the caulk and it works better than the Bruce junk. Upon the day of completion the Bruce stuff arrived and we compared the two. This guy was alot of fun to work with and he mentioned.."same chit..LOL" Almost the same, but the Bruce stuff is always too watery and requires a second going over in filling.
Perhaps one day, Bruce will get it right? Enough of my rambling, but that is one large website Patricia and I haven't looked at it for some time. Thanks;)
In the case of prefinished hardwood floors use a latex type filler. Most manufactures provide the stuff in matching colors . If not you can always find some colored silicone caulk at any home center. I'm sure that recommendation may rattle some people....but..
I recall waiting on some of the worthless Bruce filler on a job not long ago. It was needed for filling "top nailed areas" and minor end joint cracks or mismilling. I didn't wait and headed to the local Ace HW and found what I needed. Incidentally the job was for a local homebuilder(his home), and he spent all of his day in the trenches opposed to the ones that play golf four times a week.
We used the caulk and it works better than the Bruce junk. Upon the day of completion the Bruce stuff arrived and we compared the two. This guy was alot of fun to work with and he mentioned.."same chit..LOL" Almost the same, but the Bruce stuff is always too watery and requires a second going over in filling.
Perhaps one day, Bruce will get it right? Enough of my rambling, but that is one large website Patricia and I haven't looked at it for some time. Thanks;)