Solid Hardwood, Engineered and Laminate Flooring - Use Of Straps
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M34SPFLDMASS
02-01-02, 07:21 AM
Hello, I am about to install my first laminate floor in my living room. I have read the mfgs installation directions, searched - read EVERY installation tip, page, article I could find.
My question is this.
After dry fitting first 3 rows, getting set to glue - do I need to use the wrachet straps or is tapping sufficient?
If so, do I move the strap each time I add a new completed row until done?
Most articles only state using strap on first 3 rows.
Any information or comment is appreciated.
thank you
My question is this.
After dry fitting first 3 rows, getting set to glue - do I need to use the wrachet straps or is tapping sufficient?
If so, do I move the strap each time I add a new completed row until done?
Most articles only state using strap on first 3 rows.
Any information or comment is appreciated.
thank you
GasGuzz
02-01-02, 08:07 AM
Just finished doing the MB bath in Pergo Prodigy (would have done it the same with real wood to match the MB if it wasn't recommended).
I haven't used the straps. Seems the straps are for drying while tapping is for fitting. Nowadays typically the T&G are of high quality and if you lign up the plank edges properly, even tapping becomes an option (in my experience).
I also found that dry-fitting the entire floor project has it benefits (so does my floor supplier). The only real drawback is its more time consuming (which is relative). The great advantage is you can see/finish the entire project before you do the final seam gluing.
Remember, it is almost a given your floor will not be square (or perfectly level). That PVA glue sets rather quickly, and when you glue you're glued.
:) Measuring twice/thrice and cut once rules.
I haven't used the straps. Seems the straps are for drying while tapping is for fitting. Nowadays typically the T&G are of high quality and if you lign up the plank edges properly, even tapping becomes an option (in my experience).
I also found that dry-fitting the entire floor project has it benefits (so does my floor supplier). The only real drawback is its more time consuming (which is relative). The great advantage is you can see/finish the entire project before you do the final seam gluing.
Remember, it is almost a given your floor will not be square (or perfectly level). That PVA glue sets rather quickly, and when you glue you're glued.
:) Measuring twice/thrice and cut once rules.
AzFred
02-04-02, 09:44 PM
If you plan to install a glued assembly laminate floor, USE the strap clamps!!!! Squeeze out the excess glue with the strap clamps and clean it up NOW with a CLEAN, water "damp" rag to avoid glue haze. Yes, move the clamps to each and every row. Strap extensions are available or you could tape the joints with "blue tape" to hold them in place. Tongues and grooves are made loose on purpose to allow for a "glue line". Each manufacturer provides space for a different amount of glue and thus a different amount of glue is suggested at application. After clamping do not walk on the installed floor for 24 hours for best results.
robp
02-21-02, 02:56 PM
I just finished installing Pergo Select tiles in a sunroom. I used the straps and they were very helpful. Only problem is I found that some of the joints opened up slightly after the glue dried, maybe I removed the straps too soon. Is there anything I can do to try to fill the joints that opened up?
AzFred
02-21-02, 07:01 PM
The glue sets in a short period of time but it takes 24 hours to cure. There are putty and caulk products to fill the gaps.