Decks, Patios, Porches and Docks - Decking Material Suggestions
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01-31-02, 07:40 PM
I'm building a 1400 sq. foot deck in Los Angels Ca. I'm sure redwood is what I'll end up using. But at four to five grand, I'd like some alturnitive choices. The fencing will be redwood or ceader painted white. I love the contrasting look of the redwood deck... but 4-5K! I'm hanging joist this weekend and need to make a choice. I've seen Trax, no. I have Dry Kiln samples, and could use it with a stain, but I'm told it will crack. What do you recommend?
Thanks bill
Thanks bill
lefty
01-31-02, 08:13 PM
A redwood deck at less than $4/sq. ft.? You're either getting a deal, or some pretty crappy redwood!! (Notice my location. I get redwood here for a LOT less than you do, and $4 a foot for a deck is cheap!! The last one I built cost the customer closer to $20!!)
fewalt
01-31-02, 08:22 PM
Bill,
I agree, you're building a fairly good size deck for that money.
Here in the southeast, almost everyone uses pressure treated southern pine - Usually stained or sometimes left to weather to a silvery grey.
There are about a dozen or so manufacturers of composite deck material - here are a handfull of names:
WeatherBest
Trex
Fiberon
SmartDeck
E-Z Deck
Timber-Tech
Epoch
Rhino Deck
fred
I agree, you're building a fairly good size deck for that money.
Here in the southeast, almost everyone uses pressure treated southern pine - Usually stained or sometimes left to weather to a silvery grey.
There are about a dozen or so manufacturers of composite deck material - here are a handfull of names:
WeatherBest
Trex
Fiberon
SmartDeck
E-Z Deck
Timber-Tech
Epoch
Rhino Deck
fred
02-01-02, 01:33 AM
Thanks guys, that price is just for the material, for the decking only. I think what I'm going to do is use the Kiln dried and use a paint/stain.
I'll post a photo in a couple of weeks. ( weekend job )
bill
I'll post a photo in a couple of weeks. ( weekend job )
bill
fewalt
02-01-02, 06:10 AM
bp19,
The kiln-dried you refer to - does it have any pressure teating chemicals added at all? If your deck will have a cover over it you may be able to get by with just k-d.
If the deck is exposed to the elements I suggest using something more than the K-d. Additionaly, do not paint any horizontal surfaces(deck or railings). I even suggest against solid color stains which are film based. The wood will absorb moisture from underneath or from the board ends and your finish will peel in short order.
fred
The kiln-dried you refer to - does it have any pressure teating chemicals added at all? If your deck will have a cover over it you may be able to get by with just k-d.
If the deck is exposed to the elements I suggest using something more than the K-d. Additionaly, do not paint any horizontal surfaces(deck or railings). I even suggest against solid color stains which are film based. The wood will absorb moisture from underneath or from the board ends and your finish will peel in short order.
fred
lefty
02-01-02, 07:53 PM
fewalt, the k-d redwood that bp19 is looking at has no other chemicals added to it. Redwood is more resistive to rot and bugs than cedar; it doesn't need (and never gets) any chemicals added in the k-d process. But, since it only grows on the north coast of CA, it's not readily available anyplace other than CA and possibly southern OR
fewalt
02-01-02, 08:24 PM
Hi Lefty,
I sort of misunderstood the initial post with regard to the redwood and possibly another alternative k-d wood.
I undertand the qualities of the redwood and wish it was an option in the southeast. I'm sure the extra shipping x-country would make it cost prohibitive.
Oh well, pt southern pine for us in the east......
fred
I sort of misunderstood the initial post with regard to the redwood and possibly another alternative k-d wood.
I undertand the qualities of the redwood and wish it was an option in the southeast. I'm sure the extra shipping x-country would make it cost prohibitive.
Oh well, pt southern pine for us in the east......
fred
lefty
02-01-02, 08:44 PM
Fred, if I stepped on a toe there, I certainly didn't mean to. But since redwood is available in such a limited area (unlike this website), I'm sure that many, if not MOST, of the folks following this thread are not aware of it's qualities. I'm fairly certain that less than 25% of the folks in swVA have ever seen a redwood deck, just as about the same percentage of us in CA have never seen pt southern pine. (If I have seen it, I certainly am not aware of it!!) It's pretty much the same situation. It would simply be too costly to get it here.
diylady
02-05-02, 08:23 AM
What?!? You mean that there's other woods you can build with besides SYP??? :D
arkayassoc
02-05-02, 11:47 PM
In the Southeast, I think Cypress is the southern equivalent of California Redwood. Just does not have the red color.
fewalt
02-06-02, 05:13 AM
Hey Rick,
I forgot about cypress. About the only place I've seen it is on the Carolina coast. "ALL DECKED OUT" just about has a monopoly on all the outdoor furniture made of cypres all along the Hatteras area.
fred
I forgot about cypress. About the only place I've seen it is on the Carolina coast. "ALL DECKED OUT" just about has a monopoly on all the outdoor furniture made of cypres all along the Hatteras area.
fred
lefty
02-06-02, 09:39 PM
Okay, bp19 (if you are still looking this over), as you can see, the "best" wood to use for a deck depends mostly on where you are. That determines shat will be available, at least at an affordable price. In CA, we use redwood, but might take a look at cypress or a southern pine if it were available. diylady, in Alabama is saying pretty much the same thing about cypress. I think she would really like to be able to at least LOOK at a redwood deck, but her best shot at that will be to buy a magazine or an airplane ticket!
The composites are at least worth looking into, and they are available pretty much everywhere. Their good points include the lack of maintenance and their durability. Plus they won't plit if you have to leave a very small piece attached (say cutting around a post), or when you put a screw in right at the cut end. Some of the down sides would include price at the initial purchase, the weight, and the fact that it is much more limber than a wood 2X6.
I have built several decks with Trex, and will build more when the customer so desires.
The composites are at least worth looking into, and they are available pretty much everywhere. Their good points include the lack of maintenance and their durability. Plus they won't plit if you have to leave a very small piece attached (say cutting around a post), or when you put a screw in right at the cut end. Some of the down sides would include price at the initial purchase, the weight, and the fact that it is much more limber than a wood 2X6.
I have built several decks with Trex, and will build more when the customer so desires.
jmartin104
02-08-02, 07:25 AM
Sorry, I did not see any alternatives other than composite decking. I live in Central FL and I'm planning a deck of about 210 sq. ft. My objectives, in order of importance:
1) High quality - must last 5-10 years
2) Low cost
3) Durable - I have two large German Shepherds
What would be some good choices? Stained P/T? Composite?
TIA!
1) High quality - must last 5-10 years
2) Low cost
3) Durable - I have two large German Shepherds
What would be some good choices? Stained P/T? Composite?
TIA!
lefty
02-08-02, 08:54 PM
jmartin104,
"high quality", "low cost", durable" -- care to pick 2?? Sorry my friend, but you can't have champane on a beer budget. Something has GOT to give.
"high quality", "low cost", durable" -- care to pick 2?? Sorry my friend, but you can't have champane on a beer budget. Something has GOT to give.
jmartin104
02-09-02, 06:37 AM
Ok, I knew I was asking for too much. I want the deck to last 5 years but I don't want it to look like crap. If I paint the deck the dogs will make it look horrible. I have considered staining P/T. My budget is $1,500 max for a 21' X 10' deck with rails. Any input is greatly appreciated.
fewalt
02-09-02, 07:18 AM
jmartin104,
A properly installed PT lumber deck is most certainly going to last more than five years. Mine was built in '78, and the only fix has been new stair treads.
Please do not consider painting an outdoor deck, you'd only be asking for trouble. Painted horizontal surfaces will peel in a short period. A quality exterior stain is probably the best way to go. You want to use an oil base stain which is water repellent and has UV protection. Water and the sun is wood's worst enemy.
Your budget may limit the size of your deck. If you are building the deck yourself, do your shopping to figure out the size deck you can afford. If your initial deck is smaller than what you wanted you can possibly add a second level at a later date.
fred
A properly installed PT lumber deck is most certainly going to last more than five years. Mine was built in '78, and the only fix has been new stair treads.
Please do not consider painting an outdoor deck, you'd only be asking for trouble. Painted horizontal surfaces will peel in a short period. A quality exterior stain is probably the best way to go. You want to use an oil base stain which is water repellent and has UV protection. Water and the sun is wood's worst enemy.
Your budget may limit the size of your deck. If you are building the deck yourself, do your shopping to figure out the size deck you can afford. If your initial deck is smaller than what you wanted you can possibly add a second level at a later date.
fred
jmartin104
02-09-02, 11:46 AM
I considered doing everything in PT except the decking, rail, rail cap and balisters. I considered staining those. I would like to stain the PT as well. Will this make any negative difference?
What kind of wood should I get for the decking, rails, etc.? Is white pine too soft? Or should I do everything in PT and stain it?
BTW, my house is Stucco.
TIA!
What kind of wood should I get for the decking, rails, etc.? Is white pine too soft? Or should I do everything in PT and stain it?
BTW, my house is Stucco.
TIA!