Kitchen Gas Appliances - Wall Heating Unit
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Trying2Help
01-21-02, 11:41 PM
Tom, can you help me here?
I need to find an replacement pilot assembly for this unit an seem to be having a hard time. It is a Sears unit, but their database does not list it anymore. Here is what I know about it:
ANS: 721.448 1982 Direct Vent Furnance
Mod#: 867.721.190
Ser#: H323.83695
Man#: SWLCD45A001
Norm Input BTU: 45,000
Output Cap BTU/Hr: 33.750
It is a Propane unit and the owner "cleaned" it. In the process he lost the oriface for the pilot. So now it has quite the flame for a pilot. One you would think you would get with a straight 1/4" line feeding the pilot. :rolleyes:
Do you happen to know where I might get the replacement pilot assembly, or an oriface for propane pilot (if there is such a thing)?
The whole assembly is mounted to a plate approximately 1" X 3". It holds the pilot, thermocoupler and spark ignitor. Two screws hold it in place, one on each end.
Please help me on this. The owner is set on getting the thing to work. Even if it means filling the pilot tube with J.B. Weld and drilling a small hole in it, to replace the oriface!!!! I would much rather find the correct replacement part, but I can't prevent him from doing something after I leave if it isn't fixed.
Thanks,
I need to find an replacement pilot assembly for this unit an seem to be having a hard time. It is a Sears unit, but their database does not list it anymore. Here is what I know about it:
ANS: 721.448 1982 Direct Vent Furnance
Mod#: 867.721.190
Ser#: H323.83695
Man#: SWLCD45A001
Norm Input BTU: 45,000
Output Cap BTU/Hr: 33.750
It is a Propane unit and the owner "cleaned" it. In the process he lost the oriface for the pilot. So now it has quite the flame for a pilot. One you would think you would get with a straight 1/4" line feeding the pilot. :rolleyes:
Do you happen to know where I might get the replacement pilot assembly, or an oriface for propane pilot (if there is such a thing)?
The whole assembly is mounted to a plate approximately 1" X 3". It holds the pilot, thermocoupler and spark ignitor. Two screws hold it in place, one on each end.
Please help me on this. The owner is set on getting the thing to work. Even if it means filling the pilot tube with J.B. Weld and drilling a small hole in it, to replace the oriface!!!! I would much rather find the correct replacement part, but I can't prevent him from doing something after I leave if it isn't fixed.
Thanks,
Sharp Advice
01-22-02, 09:00 PM
Hello: Trying2Help
Remove the entire pilot assembly and take it to the local gas appliance retail parts store. The pilot assembly, pilot orifice, tubing and brass nuts, etc. will be available there.
Sears has these appliances made for them by simply changing the name of the manufacturer. Most likely it's a Williams, etc.
Local parts appliance stores will be listed in the phone book. So will heating companies that have retail stores. Obtaining parts should not be any problem once you visit the store.
Good Luck
TCB4U2B2B Company Enterprises.
Fast, Fair, Friendly & Highly Efficient Services.....:)
Forum Moderator
Energy Conservation Consultants & Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics Technician.
Remove the entire pilot assembly and take it to the local gas appliance retail parts store. The pilot assembly, pilot orifice, tubing and brass nuts, etc. will be available there.
Sears has these appliances made for them by simply changing the name of the manufacturer. Most likely it's a Williams, etc.
Local parts appliance stores will be listed in the phone book. So will heating companies that have retail stores. Obtaining parts should not be any problem once you visit the store.
Good Luck
TCB4U2B2B Company Enterprises.
Fast, Fair, Friendly & Highly Efficient Services.....:)
Forum Moderator
Energy Conservation Consultants & Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics Technician.
Trying2Help
01-23-02, 10:57 AM
Thanks for you help, Tom. I did find an orifice to replace the lost one, so prevented the use of JB Weld...:D
Now I seem to have one other problem. I am not getting any gas out of the gas valve body to the main burner. We have actually removed all the plumbing and ensured all jets and pipes were free and clear.
It is the gas valve that is not passing the gas. (Pardon the pun) The gas valve is an:
Honeywell, Mod# V 801 W 7047
Regualtor: V5307 A
Operator: V 804 A
P/N: HQ508407HW
After talking to the owner, I found he had taken it apart and cleaned it also. I went ahead and took it apart and it all looks clean and dry, diaphrams are good and passages seem to be clear.
However, if all the nessary inputs are met no gas comes out of the main output, pilot lite works fine.
There somewhere that has a break down of the gas valve? Can I get a rebuild kit for the valve? Is there something common with these valves that would cause these problems?
I was looking in the Grainger catalog for a replace valve but am a little confused as to what to look for. This one has an 1/2" input and an 3/8" output line.
Does the valve have to be set up for LP or can you sub one set for natural gas and still be okay?
I personally would just replace the valve, but the guy is strapped for money and wants to do what ever he can to keep the cost down. He will be 75 in April, so he qualifies for my senior discount....In other words, I am working really cheap to try to get him heat, but I can't help him on the cost of repair parts. Just alittle background so you don't think I have lost my mind.;)
Now I seem to have one other problem. I am not getting any gas out of the gas valve body to the main burner. We have actually removed all the plumbing and ensured all jets and pipes were free and clear.
It is the gas valve that is not passing the gas. (Pardon the pun) The gas valve is an:
Honeywell, Mod# V 801 W 7047
Regualtor: V5307 A
Operator: V 804 A
P/N: HQ508407HW
After talking to the owner, I found he had taken it apart and cleaned it also. I went ahead and took it apart and it all looks clean and dry, diaphrams are good and passages seem to be clear.
However, if all the nessary inputs are met no gas comes out of the main output, pilot lite works fine.
There somewhere that has a break down of the gas valve? Can I get a rebuild kit for the valve? Is there something common with these valves that would cause these problems?
I was looking in the Grainger catalog for a replace valve but am a little confused as to what to look for. This one has an 1/2" input and an 3/8" output line.
Does the valve have to be set up for LP or can you sub one set for natural gas and still be okay?
I personally would just replace the valve, but the guy is strapped for money and wants to do what ever he can to keep the cost down. He will be 75 in April, so he qualifies for my senior discount....In other words, I am working really cheap to try to get him heat, but I can't help him on the cost of repair parts. Just alittle background so you don't think I have lost my mind.;)
Sharp Advice
01-23-02, 08:13 PM
Hello: T2H
I do not recommend attempting any repairs to gas valves. They are a non repairable part for all intensive purposes. Replacement is the only real solution.
Since the gas valve has already been taken apart twice, there isn't anyway I can insure the safety of the property nor the people using the appliance.
Why the valve doesn't allow for gas flow once the pilot is established is because the safety device is doing it's intended job. Something inside the valve is most likely incorrect. What it could be may be hazardous and or simply incorrectly installed etc.
If the guy is strapped for $$$$...consider these points:
He could be dead if anything is wrong with the gas valve.
What is his life worth?
Surely more then the cost of the replacement part and peace of mind....:)
Regards,
TomB
I do not recommend attempting any repairs to gas valves. They are a non repairable part for all intensive purposes. Replacement is the only real solution.
Since the gas valve has already been taken apart twice, there isn't anyway I can insure the safety of the property nor the people using the appliance.
Why the valve doesn't allow for gas flow once the pilot is established is because the safety device is doing it's intended job. Something inside the valve is most likely incorrect. What it could be may be hazardous and or simply incorrectly installed etc.
If the guy is strapped for $$$$...consider these points:
He could be dead if anything is wrong with the gas valve.
What is his life worth?
Surely more then the cost of the replacement part and peace of mind....:)
Regards,
TomB
Trying2Help
01-24-02, 12:28 PM
Tom,
I couldn't agree with you more. I wasn't sure if there were any rebuild kits available out there and after looking, I found there are none to be had. I can understand the reasoning behind this and don't have a problem with it.
Last night I had a long heart to heart with the guy and basically told him, he would have to replace the valve. He was still set that he could get it to work, if he messed with it long enough. It came down to me telling him, I could not give him the valve back because I didn't feel safe in doing so. Since I had opened it, if something would happen I would feel responsible. He finally saw the light and we placed one on order through the local appliance repair shop. :D For a mere $90.00, I believe the piece of mind is well worth it.
Thanks for all the helpful hints.
I couldn't agree with you more. I wasn't sure if there were any rebuild kits available out there and after looking, I found there are none to be had. I can understand the reasoning behind this and don't have a problem with it.
Last night I had a long heart to heart with the guy and basically told him, he would have to replace the valve. He was still set that he could get it to work, if he messed with it long enough. It came down to me telling him, I could not give him the valve back because I didn't feel safe in doing so. Since I had opened it, if something would happen I would feel responsible. He finally saw the light and we placed one on order through the local appliance repair shop. :D For a mere $90.00, I believe the piece of mind is well worth it.
Thanks for all the helpful hints.