Flooring Tile - durock frustration
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kelsner
01-07-02, 03:01 AM
I gutted our 1950's bath and demolished all of the ugly tile that ran halfway up the wall and further in the tub/shower. Looks like when they framed out the bathroom, they didn't pay much attention at all to keeping things plumb/square/etc. since the plasterers/tilers would come in and make everything look nice. Now I'm trying to put up new durock panels and there's incredibly sparse framing in the corners of the room to fasten the edges of the panels to. I've used furring strips on the studs to bring the durock out the appropriate distance. Problem is, there isn't any substantial framing in the corners to fasten furring strips to!! Any tips on fastening the durock in the corners? Anyone heard of this problem before? Can there be ANY flex in durock before tiling?
01-07-02, 06:48 AM
Tile should never be installed over Durock that has any flex in it. To do so will invite possible delamination of the tile from the Durock. Do it right the first time so you will not have to do it twice.
If you have any solid wood structure in the corners, the best solution is to attach 2"x4" wood cleats to that structure using long (3" minimum) deck or lag screws. If necessary (to get the cleat out to where you can install the Durock screws) use more than one 2"x4", in layers. Suitable nails (large, for strength reasons) are probably too hard to work with in such cases.
If you can't use cleats, then consider adding 2"x4" structure extending from suitable, existing wall studs to the corners. Such structural elements can even be horizontal, as long as they are real strong. Just put the hammer away & use long deck screws (or substantial nuts & bolts) to put the structure together. And, even though rough carpenters don't believe in it, use glue, metal angles or whatever, to help support any possibly weak attachment points.
By the way - if needed - taping the corners together using fiberglass drywall/Durock tape (applied using tile thinset mortar) will also strengthen the corners.
Good luck with your project.
If you have any solid wood structure in the corners, the best solution is to attach 2"x4" wood cleats to that structure using long (3" minimum) deck or lag screws. If necessary (to get the cleat out to where you can install the Durock screws) use more than one 2"x4", in layers. Suitable nails (large, for strength reasons) are probably too hard to work with in such cases.
If you can't use cleats, then consider adding 2"x4" structure extending from suitable, existing wall studs to the corners. Such structural elements can even be horizontal, as long as they are real strong. Just put the hammer away & use long deck screws (or substantial nuts & bolts) to put the structure together. And, even though rough carpenters don't believe in it, use glue, metal angles or whatever, to help support any possibly weak attachment points.
By the way - if needed - taping the corners together using fiberglass drywall/Durock tape (applied using tile thinset mortar) will also strengthen the corners.
Good luck with your project.
01-07-02, 07:44 AM
I would also use a latex-modified tile mortar as well as an bond-enhancer like Laticrete #333 additive.