Flooring Tile - wall tile installation
Doityourself.com community forum was created to provide answers to all questions related to home improvement and home repair. Doityourself community can help you find information about how-to topics on small fixes to large remodeling projects. With comprehensive how-to content and expertly moderated community forums DoItYourself.com makes it easy to tackle even the most complex home improvement projects.View Full Version : wall tile installation
Able Sashweight
09-02-01, 07:06 PM
While stringing a long home run, I noticed that the sheathing of the NM cable was cut open along an inch, as if abraided. The insulation of the conductors appears to be intact, as does the ground wire.
What should I do? Tape the cable well? Or replace the run?
Able
What should I do? Tape the cable well? Or replace the run?
Able
jadship
12-29-01, 01:44 PM
My husband & I are installing ceramic tile over cement board in our tub/shower area.
We've only installed a small area to "test" with a thin-set morter. Our problem is the tiles , (8x10's), were slipping after we twisted them in place. We couldn't keep many of the spacers in because of the slipping.
What do you think our problem was? Our thin set was about the consistency of toothpaste. Was it still to thin or did we apply too much adhesive to the wall? We used masking tape to hold the tiles in place while they are drying and it appears to have worked as they have stayed in place.
We want to correct our mistakes, if any, early in the process.
Also, when installing the accessories, soap dishes, etc., do we grout around these areas. Our plan was to have the tile cut out for them, install the tile with adhesive, except the accessories areas. Wait for the tile to set and install the accessories with the same thin set adhesive and then grout the entire area, including around the accessories?
Our last question, I was surprised to read on this board that we should silicone caulk the corners before grouting??
thanks,
Donna
We've only installed a small area to "test" with a thin-set morter. Our problem is the tiles , (8x10's), were slipping after we twisted them in place. We couldn't keep many of the spacers in because of the slipping.
What do you think our problem was? Our thin set was about the consistency of toothpaste. Was it still to thin or did we apply too much adhesive to the wall? We used masking tape to hold the tiles in place while they are drying and it appears to have worked as they have stayed in place.
We want to correct our mistakes, if any, early in the process.
Also, when installing the accessories, soap dishes, etc., do we grout around these areas. Our plan was to have the tile cut out for them, install the tile with adhesive, except the accessories areas. Wait for the tile to set and install the accessories with the same thin set adhesive and then grout the entire area, including around the accessories?
Our last question, I was surprised to read on this board that we should silicone caulk the corners before grouting??
thanks,
Donna
twelvepole
12-29-01, 01:50 PM
Go to www.doityourself.com/ceramic for helpful info. Also go to www.johnbridge.com where you can talk with the tile pros on the forums there.
12-29-01, 03:38 PM
Hi Jadship,
"sagging" is a characteristic of thin-set. No matter how thick you mix it it "sags". If the tub is level like it should be (unfortunately few are.) I place my bottom cut (or Full tile), directly on the tub. If it is not level I screw a straight edge in at a point in the wall where full tile would be(usually as low as possible) and start my beginning course there, let it dry overnight, and place my bottom cut the following day. (fill the screw holes with thin-set before you continue!) also I do set the fixtures with thin-set and then after drying, grout as usual. I personally do caulk all corners the day before I grout. (there is much debate about before grout or after grout), I just do it before (personal preference). :D
Regards,
Rich Gately (Tileman1)
www.gatelytile.com
"sagging" is a characteristic of thin-set. No matter how thick you mix it it "sags". If the tub is level like it should be (unfortunately few are.) I place my bottom cut (or Full tile), directly on the tub. If it is not level I screw a straight edge in at a point in the wall where full tile would be(usually as low as possible) and start my beginning course there, let it dry overnight, and place my bottom cut the following day. (fill the screw holes with thin-set before you continue!) also I do set the fixtures with thin-set and then after drying, grout as usual. I personally do caulk all corners the day before I grout. (there is much debate about before grout or after grout), I just do it before (personal preference). :D
Regards,
Rich Gately (Tileman1)
www.gatelytile.com
jadship
12-30-01, 02:43 PM
Thanks so much for the advice Tileman.
We screwed a straight edge low on the wall and used it as a ledge to support the tile, along with the spacers. It worked great! Tomorrow we just need to unscrew the board and finish the bottom row next to the tub.
It's amazing how much easier life is when you know tip. For our first time tiling, we're very happy with our job (as long as it doesn't fall off the walls while we sleep tonight).
thanks again,
Donna Shipley
We screwed a straight edge low on the wall and used it as a ledge to support the tile, along with the spacers. It worked great! Tomorrow we just need to unscrew the board and finish the bottom row next to the tub.
It's amazing how much easier life is when you know tip. For our first time tiling, we're very happy with our job (as long as it doesn't fall off the walls while we sleep tonight).
thanks again,
Donna Shipley