Furniture, Wood and Cabinetry Finishing - Applying finish to cherry table
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10-12-01, 11:07 AM
I have stripped and sanded an old cherry dining room table. I then stained it cherry. I am using a finish of equal parts tung oil, varnish and mineral spirits. I heated the mixture slightly to try to get rid of the bubbles, but when I applied it I got bubbles anyway and streaks.
Can I correct this by just sanding down with 320 or 400 grit sandpaper?
Also, is there a way to polish the wood after stain and before the finish? I had planned to work the finish thin and sand between coats and am hoping to get a nice luster on the wood.
Your help is appreciated.
Thanks!
Can I correct this by just sanding down with 320 or 400 grit sandpaper?
Also, is there a way to polish the wood after stain and before the finish? I had planned to work the finish thin and sand between coats and am hoping to get a nice luster on the wood.
Your help is appreciated.
Thanks!
fewalt
10-12-01, 12:37 PM
warren,
I think the tung oil is superfluous since you are using a varnish or poly finish anyway. The tung oil won't give you any added protection.
The wood can be slightly steel-wooled after staining - only when not using a waterbase finish. This will remove any raised grain 'fuzzies'.
You certainly can sand with the noted paper to remove any remaining bubble 'nubs'. Since you are thinning with mineral spirits, the bubbles should be at a minimum. The thinner finish will allow the thin bubbles to pop before the finish starts to dry. A foam brush usually leaves a better finish. I thin my poly, sometimes to 50%, for a smoother finish. Of course this requires up to four or five coats due to the excessive thinning.
Our very informative moderator, George, may suggest that the final coat be sprayed with the desired lustre. I have used this technique occasionally, but it is more dificult on larger pieces.
good luck,
fred
I think the tung oil is superfluous since you are using a varnish or poly finish anyway. The tung oil won't give you any added protection.
The wood can be slightly steel-wooled after staining - only when not using a waterbase finish. This will remove any raised grain 'fuzzies'.
You certainly can sand with the noted paper to remove any remaining bubble 'nubs'. Since you are thinning with mineral spirits, the bubbles should be at a minimum. The thinner finish will allow the thin bubbles to pop before the finish starts to dry. A foam brush usually leaves a better finish. I thin my poly, sometimes to 50%, for a smoother finish. Of course this requires up to four or five coats due to the excessive thinning.
Our very informative moderator, George, may suggest that the final coat be sprayed with the desired lustre. I have used this technique occasionally, but it is more dificult on larger pieces.
good luck,
fred
George
10-13-01, 11:14 AM
I find no fault with any of Fred's suggestions, but here are a couple of my own.
If you go to a foam brush, get one with a wood handle. The ones with a flexible plastic handle are worthless.
The biggest mistake made in applying either standard varnish or poly is over brushing. Lay it on, spread it out, and then tip off the area you just worked. By 'tipping', I mean holding the brush nearly vertical and just letting teh bare tips of the bristles touch the work. This knocks down almost all the bubbles. Working with a finish thinned with 25% thinner, the rest should setlle out as the finish dries..
If you go to a foam brush, get one with a wood handle. The ones with a flexible plastic handle are worthless.
The biggest mistake made in applying either standard varnish or poly is over brushing. Lay it on, spread it out, and then tip off the area you just worked. By 'tipping', I mean holding the brush nearly vertical and just letting teh bare tips of the bristles touch the work. This knocks down almost all the bubbles. Working with a finish thinned with 25% thinner, the rest should setlle out as the finish dries..
10-19-01, 07:37 AM
Thanks, guys. I decided to try sanding with fine sandpaper (320 to begin with, followed by 400). I think I got the bubbles out but I seem to have taken some of the stain with it. There are now areas that look like the stain either didn't take originally or maybe was rubbed away when I sanded again.
Obviously, I'm really new to this, but am I forced now to sand it all down and restain and refinish?
Obviously, I'm really new to this, but am I forced now to sand it all down and restain and refinish?