Furniture, Wood and Cabinetry Finishing - Sun damage; hinges; repairing veneer
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09-08-01, 11:52 AM
I am in the process of refinishing a 40-yr.old mahogany-veneered buffet. I have 3 questions: (1) The top has been badly damaged by sunlight. It may be somewhat bleached and in places the finish is flaking badly. What type finish will best protect it from further sun damage? Will oil-based polyurethane do this? Will a piece of glass laid on top, after refinishing is complete, protect it from the sun? (2) There is a small area which has been sanded smooth, through the veneer-- about the size of a nickel. This is shaped like the "bowl" of a spoon. Am I going to be able to repair that area and stain it in hopes of making it match the rest of the top? Any suggestions? (3) The hinges, handles, etc., are very dark metal. How would you suggest I clean them to not completely strip them down to bare metal? I have no idea what color they were originally. Many thanks in advance for any help you can give.
George
09-09-01, 04:44 AM
Elanbrbr:
Let's take it one part at a time.
The top will have to be stripped before a new finish can be applied. The poly is probably the most durable, but all finishes will deteriorate over time when exposed to direct sunlight.
The glass will protect from 'use damage' (spills, scuff marks, etc.) but offers no protection at all against sunlight.
For the veneer damage, stain as if there were no damage, let dry completely, and apply one coat of the finish of your choice. This will bring out the color you're after so you can match it. Sand to smooth out. Use artist oil colors to paint in the color in the damaged area. Depending on the color you're after, Burnt Sienna, Vandyke Brown, and Yellow Ochre will give you the colors you need. You'll have to play with them to get the right color.
Go after the background color first. Don't confine your work to the damaged area, but blend it in to the surrounding 'good' part. Thin the paints before applying - you don't want any lumps.
After the background color is satisfactory, apply another coat of finish to seal the work in, then go after the grain.
Any mistakes along the way can be erased with a rag dampened with paint thinner until you're staisfied with the results.
As for the hardware, ordinary toothpaste should clean most of the accumulated grime away without damaging what's left of the finish. Hardware is usually coated with a lacquer made especially for brass, but off-the-shelf lacquer from your local home center or hardware store will work - use an aerosol, it's easier.
Let's take it one part at a time.
The top will have to be stripped before a new finish can be applied. The poly is probably the most durable, but all finishes will deteriorate over time when exposed to direct sunlight.
The glass will protect from 'use damage' (spills, scuff marks, etc.) but offers no protection at all against sunlight.
For the veneer damage, stain as if there were no damage, let dry completely, and apply one coat of the finish of your choice. This will bring out the color you're after so you can match it. Sand to smooth out. Use artist oil colors to paint in the color in the damaged area. Depending on the color you're after, Burnt Sienna, Vandyke Brown, and Yellow Ochre will give you the colors you need. You'll have to play with them to get the right color.
Go after the background color first. Don't confine your work to the damaged area, but blend it in to the surrounding 'good' part. Thin the paints before applying - you don't want any lumps.
After the background color is satisfactory, apply another coat of finish to seal the work in, then go after the grain.
Any mistakes along the way can be erased with a rag dampened with paint thinner until you're staisfied with the results.
As for the hardware, ordinary toothpaste should clean most of the accumulated grime away without damaging what's left of the finish. Hardware is usually coated with a lacquer made especially for brass, but off-the-shelf lacquer from your local home center or hardware store will work - use an aerosol, it's easier.