Designing Kitchens and Bathrooms - Framing in new bathtub/shower combo
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09-07-01, 03:31 PM
We are converting a small bedroom to a new bathroom and laundry room. The plumbing we can handle but I'm looking for information on the proper framing for the bathtub/shower combination we bought. My son has carpentered but never framed a new bathtub. Can you help or steer me to a website where I can print of some kind of instructions.
Thanks,
Bon
Thanks,
Bon
rykurd
09-09-01, 11:29 AM
Tub-shower combos come in standard, 'typical' size, 5 feet long 30" wide and 5' hi. When you split up the room into 2 areas remember to leave or create a 5'x30" spot for the tub. It may end up that the tub will slide into a corner that 'exists', at which point you will build a 'partition' at the end of the tub, at the 5' mark. The partition will be 30", the width of the tub. Build the partition,floor to ceiling.
Any space left between the partition and the adjacent wall, may be devoted to vanity , shelves, cabinet,whatever,
(planned ahead of time).Whatever you do plan to put 'behind' the tub, remember to add 3-1/2" for the partition wall studs in your calculations.(A different configuration may mean that there is no space behind the shower)
Build the partition with a top plate and bottom plate, like you were framing a wall. Nail the partition to the ceiling joists, through the ceiling plaster or drywall. If there's nothing to nail to then go up into the attic and nail in some blocks between the joists, 2-2x4 blocks should do it.Plumb it up and nail it into the floor, find a floor joist if you can. If you are on a slab, ram set a couple of nails.
Also,double stud at the end of the partition. Figure on putting in an extra 'nailer' stud at the plumbed end of the tub for the drywall nailing, at the rough edge of the fiberglass.
Very important is to put an underlayment of plaster or mortar, under the tub. Otherwise through use, the fiberglass will fail. It also makes for a more solid base.
Before the 'underlay', fit and mark the tub location, using a level.Try to use those marks to relevel the tub when you do the final install with the underlay. (Stand in tub and rock it into position while mortar or plaster is wet)
Nail in the tub/shower along the lip, at the studs using 1-1/2 or 2" nails, or drywall screws (bend the nails over).
There will probably be a best, easiest way to plumb, but that way may not be where you want the tub, or, where you want the tub, may be the hardest to plumb. Get that problem, if it exists, figured out, first !(Get the mixer valve positioned right, etc.).
The existing floor support should be ok for the tub.
Tub/shower goes in against the existing wall. There is no need to strip the wallboard as long as you can 'find' screwing for new pieces of wall board that will install above the shower walls after the tub is in.
Sometimes its best to slide the tub into position before you start framing and cover it, because it can be near impossible to get the thing in after framing a tight spot.
email for specific problems or questions.
good luck
ryk
Any space left between the partition and the adjacent wall, may be devoted to vanity , shelves, cabinet,whatever,
(planned ahead of time).Whatever you do plan to put 'behind' the tub, remember to add 3-1/2" for the partition wall studs in your calculations.(A different configuration may mean that there is no space behind the shower)
Build the partition with a top plate and bottom plate, like you were framing a wall. Nail the partition to the ceiling joists, through the ceiling plaster or drywall. If there's nothing to nail to then go up into the attic and nail in some blocks between the joists, 2-2x4 blocks should do it.Plumb it up and nail it into the floor, find a floor joist if you can. If you are on a slab, ram set a couple of nails.
Also,double stud at the end of the partition. Figure on putting in an extra 'nailer' stud at the plumbed end of the tub for the drywall nailing, at the rough edge of the fiberglass.
Very important is to put an underlayment of plaster or mortar, under the tub. Otherwise through use, the fiberglass will fail. It also makes for a more solid base.
Before the 'underlay', fit and mark the tub location, using a level.Try to use those marks to relevel the tub when you do the final install with the underlay. (Stand in tub and rock it into position while mortar or plaster is wet)
Nail in the tub/shower along the lip, at the studs using 1-1/2 or 2" nails, or drywall screws (bend the nails over).
There will probably be a best, easiest way to plumb, but that way may not be where you want the tub, or, where you want the tub, may be the hardest to plumb. Get that problem, if it exists, figured out, first !(Get the mixer valve positioned right, etc.).
The existing floor support should be ok for the tub.
Tub/shower goes in against the existing wall. There is no need to strip the wallboard as long as you can 'find' screwing for new pieces of wall board that will install above the shower walls after the tub is in.
Sometimes its best to slide the tub into position before you start framing and cover it, because it can be near impossible to get the thing in after framing a tight spot.
email for specific problems or questions.
good luck
ryk