Solid Hardwood, Engineered and Laminate Flooring - Installing Solid Mitred Flooring patterns?

Before I start, What a forum! What a website! VERY informative

I have semi-completed a staircase/flooring project comprising entirely of 19mm t&G ash, and want to create a 'patterned' look on one of my landing floors.
let me explain:
Instead of simply laying board strips next to each other, I want to 'butt' boards onto end grain in order to frame the landing corners, add darker hardwood inserts and create 'Mitred' edges to achieve a stunning, almost cabinet makers look.

I have seen pictures of floors similar to the one I want to recreate, but am without knowhow, and money to pay a contractor!

I could simply just do it, but what about seasonal movement?
Mitred picture frames, if not done properly shrink and expose deep gaps, will the same happen to the floor?
How do I overcome this? Filler, as previosly mentioned on this forum, works loose....

Thanks to all

Francis:

We must be doing something right as that's the second compliment in the past week. Yohoo! You could always use some quartersawn material that doesn't expand and contract laterally. I'm quite sure it would stand out and you'd get many a raving reviews.

This procedure may get a little tricky for a diy'er as the method would require laying(nailing) the "field" first then trim the area with a circular saw. Tricky, because you're working in a small area and may not be able to get the saw engaged in some areas.

Once the field is layed and trimmed square, one would need to rout out a groove on the perimeter to allow for a tongue and groove fit for the border piece. You wouldn't need a "spline or slip tongue" as you can simply use the border pieces and engage the tongue side into the routed groove. Use some woodworkers glue as well.

Now, you have my curiosity and there are other items to consider, especially the fact you're over on the other side of the pond. Anything can be done to create the look you want, but w/o being there to see anything makes it difficult, not to mention practices in the UK.

I'm assuming the stair treads installed thus far are one single piece?

Keep Us Updated;)

Hi Ken
Thanks for the reply, I had never concidered actually routing a groove in the prepared deck in-situ. I would have probably tried to do it off site in the shop, which would have probably resulted in a messy job!

I intend to try a bit of 45 degree mitreing, presumably using the same technique as you have just described.
In practice, does this start to shift about over the seasons, requiring some special attention (Filler)?

To answer your other Q:
As I elected to use Ash, it tends to come in narrower boards than Oak, well it does over here! Wide Ash boards I have been told are possible, but the waste after quality selection becomes quite high, and thus, is quite expensive.

I therefore elected to joint two boards together to make up my treads. I practice, this wasn't difficult at all, as the entire delivery was T&G (exc. Newell/ballusters/trim), and after gluing, proved pretty strong! Warping became a bit of an issue, but a degree of thicknessing down took the proud spots off the bottom. I then acclimatised these things indoors for 1 week min, and glued and screwed them down to ply tread formers.
In the case of open treads, they were simply scribe cut @ 95-100 degrees, and butted up against the stringer.
Closed treads(Inbetween stringers) were treated to the same treatment, the risers however, were let into the stringers (avoids too many nasty gaps further up the case)
All these techniques I picked up from one of your own publications, "Stairs - The best of fine homebuilding"
Bit of a ramble, but what the heck!

Oh, by the way, every heard of Danish Oil? I intend to finish with 5 coats - Wise/Unwise?!

Francis:

You must have visited http://www.finehomebuilding.com by the mention of "the best of homebuilding?" I don't have any association with this site or others for that matter, nor do I have any published material. I'm sure someone may be squirelling way my tips mentioned here and elsewhere. Fine by me.

Try the site mentioned as there are several top drawer custom staircase makers that participate in the message area. They would have better answers than I. They would be able to help with the finish as well. There is also a gallery area(photos) at the site to which you would probably get a response much quicker.

Check this link.

http://webx.taunton.com/WebX?13@84.Uw3Ca8Ojcol^0@.efd1c2a

I may see you there;)