Walls and Ceilings - Plastering a painted Brick wall
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08-13-01, 11:27 AM
currently i have a white brick walled apartment, and I wish to give the inside a smooth finsih to the the wall.
As I wish to tackle this job my self first, so could some one give me some guide on how to start the job from preparing the wall, to giving the final finish. Please help, as I would like to gather as much info as possible before I tackle it :)
Thanks in advance.
P.s. is there a wall of preparing the plaster so that the finish will not be so flacky? ie, powdery...
As I wish to tackle this job my self first, so could some one give me some guide on how to start the job from preparing the wall, to giving the final finish. Please help, as I would like to gather as much info as possible before I tackle it :)
Thanks in advance.
P.s. is there a wall of preparing the plaster so that the finish will not be so flacky? ie, powdery...
rykurd
08-26-01, 08:02 PM
First,find out if the brick is real brick or 'face' brick
(face brick may remove easier than cover) real brick , you would scuff if the paint has a gloss. Then, get out the plaster and a trowel and start floating that brick smooth. I'm assuming the brick has enough texture to it that it will pretty much hold any type finish. I would use "multi-purpose joint compound", cuzz it doesn't dry up on you while you are putting it on the walls.
First, using a 12" drywall blade
and a 12" mud tray(full of mud), fill in the deepest depressions.Carry a 3" blade in yer pocket to knock off any 'klingons' that may be on the brick that will tweak your progress, as you go. The premise is to fill in the depressions on the brick, perhaps the mortar joint is deepest, or the brick may have a split face where the depressions in the brick itself are the culprit. The idea is then to spread the joint compound, or 'mud' to fill in the low points,..this may take 3 coats, plus some touch-up. Remember,..I am imagining a scenario that will hopefully apply to you !
I think a consistent application on the first coat will let you know, how much more it will take.Watch for leaving too many trowel marks,although, many of these can be covered with the next coat. The idea is that after each coat of 'mud' the wall becomes progressively smoother. And also, there may require sanding, after each coat dries. The first coat ,may take overnite to dry. (If its how I imagine)
Sanding may require a sanding pole. You will definately need a bunch of 120 grit sand paper(get 2-5 pacs to start)
The dust from this stuff covers everything, so get a couple of those thin plastic painters drop sheets, about a buck each. Probably would be good to move stuff away from the wall for the duration. Any vacuuming requires , cleaning the vacuum out cuzz the dust 'clogs' big-time,I hope you have a shop vac or at least an old 'beater'. Anyhow, the second coat should provide you with any missing data, that you felt while applying the first coat. You will see the gaps and crevices filling, you will see to what degree the trowel marks affect application. One good rule of thumb, once you get to the next coat, is, dont over sand. let the 'mud' fill in the low points. Take it easy sanding.A wet rag and the 12" trowel can also help with knocking down any Bloopers and Klingons. Those abrasive Scotch kitchen pads are great for a 'wet sanding'.Keep a bucket of water handy. A short ladder or step stool works best rather than a full size step
Yes, this is a rather large job and would cost you at least a thousand bucks if I did it here in los Angeles. I'm just guessing on the amount of wall you have, could be 2 grand
Once you have completed coat 3, I think you should be done
with a little touch-up.
good luck
ryk
(face brick may remove easier than cover) real brick , you would scuff if the paint has a gloss. Then, get out the plaster and a trowel and start floating that brick smooth. I'm assuming the brick has enough texture to it that it will pretty much hold any type finish. I would use "multi-purpose joint compound", cuzz it doesn't dry up on you while you are putting it on the walls.
First, using a 12" drywall blade
and a 12" mud tray(full of mud), fill in the deepest depressions.Carry a 3" blade in yer pocket to knock off any 'klingons' that may be on the brick that will tweak your progress, as you go. The premise is to fill in the depressions on the brick, perhaps the mortar joint is deepest, or the brick may have a split face where the depressions in the brick itself are the culprit. The idea is then to spread the joint compound, or 'mud' to fill in the low points,..this may take 3 coats, plus some touch-up. Remember,..I am imagining a scenario that will hopefully apply to you !
I think a consistent application on the first coat will let you know, how much more it will take.Watch for leaving too many trowel marks,although, many of these can be covered with the next coat. The idea is that after each coat of 'mud' the wall becomes progressively smoother. And also, there may require sanding, after each coat dries. The first coat ,may take overnite to dry. (If its how I imagine)
Sanding may require a sanding pole. You will definately need a bunch of 120 grit sand paper(get 2-5 pacs to start)
The dust from this stuff covers everything, so get a couple of those thin plastic painters drop sheets, about a buck each. Probably would be good to move stuff away from the wall for the duration. Any vacuuming requires , cleaning the vacuum out cuzz the dust 'clogs' big-time,I hope you have a shop vac or at least an old 'beater'. Anyhow, the second coat should provide you with any missing data, that you felt while applying the first coat. You will see the gaps and crevices filling, you will see to what degree the trowel marks affect application. One good rule of thumb, once you get to the next coat, is, dont over sand. let the 'mud' fill in the low points. Take it easy sanding.A wet rag and the 12" trowel can also help with knocking down any Bloopers and Klingons. Those abrasive Scotch kitchen pads are great for a 'wet sanding'.Keep a bucket of water handy. A short ladder or step stool works best rather than a full size step
Yes, this is a rather large job and would cost you at least a thousand bucks if I did it here in los Angeles. I'm just guessing on the amount of wall you have, could be 2 grand
Once you have completed coat 3, I think you should be done
with a little touch-up.
good luck
ryk