Kitchen Gas Appliances - Gas Dryer - Gas does not ignite
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08-03-01, 01:23 PM
I have an Amana / Speed Queen gas dryer. When I first turn on the dryer, the gas ignites. After the gas / flame goes off, the next time it attempts to ignite the gas, the igniter coil glows but it clicks off before the gas ignites. The igniter coil seems to click off just a littler earlier than when it ignites the gas the first time. The gas will not ignite again after the initial time. When I turn on the dryer the first time and the gas is ignited, the dryer does not make any funny noises. When it starts the cycle to ignite the gas after that, it makes a rumbling sound.
Sharp Advice
08-03-01, 07:14 PM
Hello and Welcome Arttom to the Do It Yourself Web Site and my Gas Appliance forum.
Based upon the information posted, the appliance has two problems. The first is it's failure to ignite on the second and subsequent cyclings and the other is the rumbling noise. I do not suspect the two problems are the same. Below are some of the possibilities for both.
Failure to relite on subsequent cyclings.
Defective Glow Coil:
The glow coil may glow but just be too weak to allow current to continue to flow to the coils. The solenoid coils are also part of the electrical loop and may effect proper glow coil operation or functioning.
Defective Solenoids:
There are two...both are on top of the gas valve.
Solenoids also supply voltage to the glow coil and are part of the electrical loop. You'll need to remove them from the top of the gas valve by removing the entire gas valve assembly first. Take them off the gas valve body by removing the holddown cover plate or take the entire gas valve unit to your local appliance parts store and have the entire assembly and parts tested.
Defective Gas Valve:
Remove entire unit as an assembly. Take the entire assembly to your local appliance parts store for testing. Gas valves are not repairable. Replacement is the only option if defective.
CAUTION: Do Not attempt to repair the gas valve! This is a non repairable item!
Timer:
Control center for all functions. The timer has internal contacts and as it advances through the cycles, one of those contacts can become burned out, stuck opened or closed for any one of several reasons. Timers also have cams <lobes> that open and close those contact points. If the timer hangs-up on a lobe, it may or may not advance to the next cycle.
If the timer or any other selection switch, on the front control panel, is suspected of causing the existing problem your having with the appliance, be sure all selections are correctly set.
If they are, the timer or other function selected switch may be defective. Timers are a non repairable item. Any or all of the control panels switches can be removed and taken to the local appliance retail parts store for testing.
Timers and switches can also be checked for continuity using an ohm meter or continuity tester. However, do not rely soley on a continuity test for proper timer functioning. Timers and switches are non repairable items.
Flame Sensor:
This part is located on the burner housing. If it's defective, it will cause the glow coil to not function or cause the problem your discribing. You can test this part with a continuity tester or an ohm meter. However, do not soley rely on this test to prove the part is functioning correctly.
FYI:
The do-it-yourself person can do electrical tests and continuity tests on several of the parts. There are parts such as flame sensors, timers, solenoids, gas valves, etc. when neither of these tests will provide proof positive the part is actually functioning correctly. Therefore, do not rely solely on either test.
TIP:
The only positive proof any part is functioning correctly, is to carefully remove the part or parts you suspect to be the potential culprit, and have the local appliance parts store person run the required tests. Appliance parts dealers carry replacement parts for all appliances and are listed in the phone book under appliances.
DRYER NOISES:
A common problem when the drum rollers wear out on some models. Some dryers do not use rollers. Instead they use pads called gliders or sliders. Some dryers use both rollers and glider or slider pads in combination.
What the noise indicates is those parts have become wornout and the drum is rotating on the support bracket and not on the intended parts. To correct the condition, it will be necessary to replace any and all worn parts.
In order to accomplish this task, the dryers top and front panels will need to be removed. Attached to the front panel will be the drums support bracket. On most models the slider or glider pads will be located on the top of the support bracket.
Some dryers also have rollers at the front and or rear of the drum. Actually, if there are rollers, it's not a true drum because it does not have a bottom. It's a tube that is supported in the rear by rollers.
The actual true drum has a bottom and is supported by a shaft and a bearing. This rear shaft and bearing can also wear out causing noise.
Basically, what needs to be done is a replacement of all the rotating parts or parts that the drum rotates on and the belt also while the dryer is opened up and under repairs. I highly suggest you clean out all lint inside the cabinet and clean out the entire exhaust system, while in the repair process.
Write down the make, model and serial numbers and visit the local appliance retail parts store in or near your home. Appliance parts dealers carry replacement parts for all appliances and are listed in the phone book under appliances. At the parts dealers you will find the needed replacement parts and helpful information.
HINT:
The noise may not be coming from only one worn out part.
Squealing noises may come from worn out motor bearings, a worn out belt or pulleys, fan blower cage, etc.
Check the ARCHIVES, within this forum, for other postings on this topic for further information. It is adviseable to inspect, clean the exhaust venting system whenever working on a dryer.
Regards & Good Luck
Forum Moderator
Tom_Bartco
Energy Conservation Consultant & Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics Technician.
Based upon the information posted, the appliance has two problems. The first is it's failure to ignite on the second and subsequent cyclings and the other is the rumbling noise. I do not suspect the two problems are the same. Below are some of the possibilities for both.
Failure to relite on subsequent cyclings.
Defective Glow Coil:
The glow coil may glow but just be too weak to allow current to continue to flow to the coils. The solenoid coils are also part of the electrical loop and may effect proper glow coil operation or functioning.
Defective Solenoids:
There are two...both are on top of the gas valve.
Solenoids also supply voltage to the glow coil and are part of the electrical loop. You'll need to remove them from the top of the gas valve by removing the entire gas valve assembly first. Take them off the gas valve body by removing the holddown cover plate or take the entire gas valve unit to your local appliance parts store and have the entire assembly and parts tested.
Defective Gas Valve:
Remove entire unit as an assembly. Take the entire assembly to your local appliance parts store for testing. Gas valves are not repairable. Replacement is the only option if defective.
CAUTION: Do Not attempt to repair the gas valve! This is a non repairable item!
Timer:
Control center for all functions. The timer has internal contacts and as it advances through the cycles, one of those contacts can become burned out, stuck opened or closed for any one of several reasons. Timers also have cams <lobes> that open and close those contact points. If the timer hangs-up on a lobe, it may or may not advance to the next cycle.
If the timer or any other selection switch, on the front control panel, is suspected of causing the existing problem your having with the appliance, be sure all selections are correctly set.
If they are, the timer or other function selected switch may be defective. Timers are a non repairable item. Any or all of the control panels switches can be removed and taken to the local appliance retail parts store for testing.
Timers and switches can also be checked for continuity using an ohm meter or continuity tester. However, do not rely soley on a continuity test for proper timer functioning. Timers and switches are non repairable items.
Flame Sensor:
This part is located on the burner housing. If it's defective, it will cause the glow coil to not function or cause the problem your discribing. You can test this part with a continuity tester or an ohm meter. However, do not soley rely on this test to prove the part is functioning correctly.
FYI:
The do-it-yourself person can do electrical tests and continuity tests on several of the parts. There are parts such as flame sensors, timers, solenoids, gas valves, etc. when neither of these tests will provide proof positive the part is actually functioning correctly. Therefore, do not rely solely on either test.
TIP:
The only positive proof any part is functioning correctly, is to carefully remove the part or parts you suspect to be the potential culprit, and have the local appliance parts store person run the required tests. Appliance parts dealers carry replacement parts for all appliances and are listed in the phone book under appliances.
DRYER NOISES:
A common problem when the drum rollers wear out on some models. Some dryers do not use rollers. Instead they use pads called gliders or sliders. Some dryers use both rollers and glider or slider pads in combination.
What the noise indicates is those parts have become wornout and the drum is rotating on the support bracket and not on the intended parts. To correct the condition, it will be necessary to replace any and all worn parts.
In order to accomplish this task, the dryers top and front panels will need to be removed. Attached to the front panel will be the drums support bracket. On most models the slider or glider pads will be located on the top of the support bracket.
Some dryers also have rollers at the front and or rear of the drum. Actually, if there are rollers, it's not a true drum because it does not have a bottom. It's a tube that is supported in the rear by rollers.
The actual true drum has a bottom and is supported by a shaft and a bearing. This rear shaft and bearing can also wear out causing noise.
Basically, what needs to be done is a replacement of all the rotating parts or parts that the drum rotates on and the belt also while the dryer is opened up and under repairs. I highly suggest you clean out all lint inside the cabinet and clean out the entire exhaust system, while in the repair process.
Write down the make, model and serial numbers and visit the local appliance retail parts store in or near your home. Appliance parts dealers carry replacement parts for all appliances and are listed in the phone book under appliances. At the parts dealers you will find the needed replacement parts and helpful information.
HINT:
The noise may not be coming from only one worn out part.
Squealing noises may come from worn out motor bearings, a worn out belt or pulleys, fan blower cage, etc.
Check the ARCHIVES, within this forum, for other postings on this topic for further information. It is adviseable to inspect, clean the exhaust venting system whenever working on a dryer.
Regards & Good Luck
Forum Moderator
Tom_Bartco
Energy Conservation Consultant & Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics Technician.