Furniture, Wood and Cabinetry Finishing - Dining table top coat
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05-16-01, 12:43 PM
I have read through some of the other postings to find an answer to my questions, but I seem have a little different problem. My pecan dining table's top coat is wearing off in some areas. What must I do to restore it? Can I put a top coat over the existing table top without any prep work or does the exiting top coat need to be removed and if so what is the procedure? And finally, how do I know what kind of top coat to use?
George
05-16-01, 05:06 PM
Ginny:
No, you can't put a new topcoat on without ANY prep work, but the work is minimal. The minimum you have to do is clean the top thoroughly - dish suds and a plastic dish scrubby will do the job adequately. Wipe completely dry with clean towels/rags/whatever.
If the finish is from the factory, it's almost certain the finish is lacquer, but here's how to find out for sure. Rub an out of the way area (the inside of a table leg near the top is ideal) with a rag dampened with lacquer thinner. If the rag starts to drag or stick, stop - the finish is either shellac, or lacquer, and you can recoat with either. If the finish shows no reaction at all to this test, the finish is either standard varnish or polyurethane.
If the finish is lacquer or shellac (by the test above) you can recoat without further preparation. Brush on lacquer is hard to find and somewhat difficult to apply because it dries so quickly, so I would suggest a good name-brand aerosol in the sheen of your choice.
If the finish is NOT lacquer or shellac, you'll need to test either standard varnish or polyurethane on an inconspicuous spot - AFTER you sand that spot. With varnish or poly you must sand the surface (and wipe the sanding debris away) before you can apply a new coat. Some polyurethanes can be applied over standard varnish, some can't. Likewise for standard varnish - test before you do the entire table.
No, you can't put a new topcoat on without ANY prep work, but the work is minimal. The minimum you have to do is clean the top thoroughly - dish suds and a plastic dish scrubby will do the job adequately. Wipe completely dry with clean towels/rags/whatever.
If the finish is from the factory, it's almost certain the finish is lacquer, but here's how to find out for sure. Rub an out of the way area (the inside of a table leg near the top is ideal) with a rag dampened with lacquer thinner. If the rag starts to drag or stick, stop - the finish is either shellac, or lacquer, and you can recoat with either. If the finish shows no reaction at all to this test, the finish is either standard varnish or polyurethane.
If the finish is lacquer or shellac (by the test above) you can recoat without further preparation. Brush on lacquer is hard to find and somewhat difficult to apply because it dries so quickly, so I would suggest a good name-brand aerosol in the sheen of your choice.
If the finish is NOT lacquer or shellac, you'll need to test either standard varnish or polyurethane on an inconspicuous spot - AFTER you sand that spot. With varnish or poly you must sand the surface (and wipe the sanding debris away) before you can apply a new coat. Some polyurethanes can be applied over standard varnish, some can't. Likewise for standard varnish - test before you do the entire table.