Decks, Patios, Porches and Docks - Octagonal Deck Building (two tier)
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05-01-01, 09:46 AM
I am building a deck that will have two tiers; one for sitting and 'chilling' and one for a hot tub.
I have decided upon an octagonal deck w/ octagonal and vertical decking. Where should these footing and posts be located or, can anyone suggest a better site (other than the home place so often mentioned) where I can see designs (detailed) of such decks?
Thanx in advance.
As an afterthought, I figured that I would include some other details. Each side will be about 8'-3 3/8", which will provide an overall diameter of about 20'. The lumber for the girters and joists will be pressure treated with cedar decking. The tier sections ( sitting area and hot tub area) will be about 3 feet from the ground (beam is 3') will include 1) stairs up to the 1st tier, 2) stairs down to a landing ledge, 3) stairs down to the yard with 3) another set of stairs up to the second tier.
Any suggestions for laying the girters?
Any suggestions for laying the joists?
Any suggestions for details or web site with plans?
[Edited by Gentrik on 05-01-01 at 12:58]
I have decided upon an octagonal deck w/ octagonal and vertical decking. Where should these footing and posts be located or, can anyone suggest a better site (other than the home place so often mentioned) where I can see designs (detailed) of such decks?
Thanx in advance.
As an afterthought, I figured that I would include some other details. Each side will be about 8'-3 3/8", which will provide an overall diameter of about 20'. The lumber for the girters and joists will be pressure treated with cedar decking. The tier sections ( sitting area and hot tub area) will be about 3 feet from the ground (beam is 3') will include 1) stairs up to the 1st tier, 2) stairs down to a landing ledge, 3) stairs down to the yard with 3) another set of stairs up to the second tier.
Any suggestions for laying the girters?
Any suggestions for laying the joists?
Any suggestions for details or web site with plans?
[Edited by Gentrik on 05-01-01 at 12:58]
05-01-01, 07:53 PM
Girders are still set with 2' minimum cantilever. Joists are still on 16" centers. Lots of cutting and wasted material unless you really plan this out well.
This is still framing with lots of angles.
You know what you want. That really helps. Draw it out and take it to your lumber supplier. They can help figure out a materials list.
This is still framing with lots of angles.
You know what you want. That really helps. Draw it out and take it to your lumber supplier. They can help figure out a materials list.
arkayassoc
05-02-01, 08:58 AM
You need to decide whether the diameter or length of each side is the most important. Based on my rusty trigonometry, if you want a 20' diameter, each side will be about 7' 7 & 7/8". If you want the sides to be 8' 3 & 3/8", then the diameter will be 21' 7 & 11/16".
From a layout and planning standpoint, it is easiest to fix the diameter. How I have done this, is drive a stake in the ground where you want the center of the octagon to be. For a 20' diameter octagon, cut four pieces of twine about 12' long. Put a loop in each piece of twine, put the loop over the center stake, and measure out 10'. Mark each piece of twine at the 10' measurement. Take the first piece of twine and drive a stake in the ground at the 10' mark and tie the twine to it. Call this the 12 o'clock position. Take the second piece of twine and go to the 6 o'clock position and drive a second stake. Make sure the 6 and 12 o'clock stakes are a straight line (lay a 10' 2x4 with the center at the middle stake and make sure twines 1 & 2 are aligned with the 2x4. Take the 3rd twine and take it out to 3 o'clock and drive a stake at the 10' mark. Make sure this twine is at a right angle (90 degrees) to the other twines. Hint: measure the distance from 12 to 3 o'clock and it should be the same as the distance from 3 to 6 o'clock. Write down this distance (X) and use it to place the stake at the 9 o'clock position.
To locate the other four points, put a stake at half the distance between 12 and 3 o'clock or 1/2 X. Unhook the twine from the 9 o'clock position, leave it on the center stake, and bring it over in line with the new stake driven between the 12 and 3 o'clock stakes, and put a new stake out at the 10' mark. Measure the distance from the 12 o'clock stake to the new stake (THIS WILL BE THE ACTUAL LENGTH OF ONE SIDE OF THE OCTAGON). Use this distance to locate the final 3 stakes for your 8 intersection points for your octagon.
The inside angles at your 8 intersections will be 135 degrees, and the outside angles will be 225 degrees.
Hope this helped with your planning!
From a layout and planning standpoint, it is easiest to fix the diameter. How I have done this, is drive a stake in the ground where you want the center of the octagon to be. For a 20' diameter octagon, cut four pieces of twine about 12' long. Put a loop in each piece of twine, put the loop over the center stake, and measure out 10'. Mark each piece of twine at the 10' measurement. Take the first piece of twine and drive a stake in the ground at the 10' mark and tie the twine to it. Call this the 12 o'clock position. Take the second piece of twine and go to the 6 o'clock position and drive a second stake. Make sure the 6 and 12 o'clock stakes are a straight line (lay a 10' 2x4 with the center at the middle stake and make sure twines 1 & 2 are aligned with the 2x4. Take the 3rd twine and take it out to 3 o'clock and drive a stake at the 10' mark. Make sure this twine is at a right angle (90 degrees) to the other twines. Hint: measure the distance from 12 to 3 o'clock and it should be the same as the distance from 3 to 6 o'clock. Write down this distance (X) and use it to place the stake at the 9 o'clock position.
To locate the other four points, put a stake at half the distance between 12 and 3 o'clock or 1/2 X. Unhook the twine from the 9 o'clock position, leave it on the center stake, and bring it over in line with the new stake driven between the 12 and 3 o'clock stakes, and put a new stake out at the 10' mark. Measure the distance from the 12 o'clock stake to the new stake (THIS WILL BE THE ACTUAL LENGTH OF ONE SIDE OF THE OCTAGON). Use this distance to locate the final 3 stakes for your 8 intersection points for your octagon.
The inside angles at your 8 intersections will be 135 degrees, and the outside angles will be 225 degrees.
Hope this helped with your planning!
05-02-01, 11:38 AM
Thanx. You both have been very helpful. I have had efforts made to disseude me from building such a deck, but i (at this point) have not listened.
I will probably need to get a book to see the actual placement of the girders and posts; one that afford me the least amount of lumber. I have inquired with my town as to what is code and there are three different spaces (12, 16 and 24) between joists and based on size of lumber (2x6, 2x8 or 2x10) allowable spans before contact with a girter.
I have yet to decide which O.C spacing to use as I have yet to figure out where these girters (and posts) should go. This is still all complicated as I want the decking to run with each side as it encircles the shape, with the last inner most 3 feet being a horizontal run.
Anyone with further assistance completing the base for this montrosity please add your comments.
Thanx so much.
I will probably need to get a book to see the actual placement of the girders and posts; one that afford me the least amount of lumber. I have inquired with my town as to what is code and there are three different spaces (12, 16 and 24) between joists and based on size of lumber (2x6, 2x8 or 2x10) allowable spans before contact with a girter.
I have yet to decide which O.C spacing to use as I have yet to figure out where these girters (and posts) should go. This is still all complicated as I want the decking to run with each side as it encircles the shape, with the last inner most 3 feet being a horizontal run.
Anyone with further assistance completing the base for this montrosity please add your comments.
Thanx so much.