Tools, Sharpening and Power Machinery - How to sharpen Chain saw blades

I would like to sharpen my chain saw blades, and would like to get any tips on sharpening the blades, never done it before, but I'd like to know how to do this effectively and correctly, to get the most from my chain saw.

Hello Koenan and Welcome to the Do It Yourself Web Site and my Sharpening forum.

Excellent question Koenan.

Best suggestion is to visit any lawn mower or small engine repair shop that offers sharpening service.

These shops will have several choices of non commerical <inexpensive> hand and power chain sharpening machines and devices.

It is common to have to buy more then one to determine which device or machine suits you best. Buy one and try it. Instructions will come with each type.

If the first choice isn't correct for you, plan on buying yet another type, hand or power operated, until you find which one you prefer.

There are also hand files for touching up and actual complete sharpening. With instructions and some practice, you'll do will.

Be patient because it does take time and do read all instructions first.

Next important item is CAUTION! To learn any hand sharpening method, be prepared to bleed...:D

If you get only a minor cut and bleed some the first time your hand slips, you haven't learned it all, so be careful! Wear leather gloves!!!

Good Luck
Tom_Bartco Enterprises
Accurate Power Equipment Company.
Complete Saw and Tool Sharpening Service.
Sharpeners Quote:
"We can sharpen almost anything,
except your mind and your wits."

Coming from the old school, I hand sharpen. I took an old hockey puck, drilled a hole in it and slid it over my file so that it butts up against the handle. Personally hate working with gloves on, and this solves the bleeding problem. It also makes it easier to find the file if you set it down in "the field" and square off one side to keep it from rolling off the bench.

Hello: Jacksprat

EXCELLENT SUGGESTION! Thanks!

Here's my suggestion to you:

Write your suggestion up and emphasize the 2 major points of finding the file in the field and the safety aspect of using a hockey puck to help prevent hand slippage and nasty cuts and bleeding.

Then post it in my Hints, Tips and Tricks forum...:)

Thanks,
Tom

All,
Here's my two cents worth. I've got three different chain saws and 18 acres of woods - lots of old dead fallen trees.
I've abandoned all sharpening attachments. I just chuck a rotary file of the correct size into my dremel and do a guesstimate on the correct sharpening angle. And I never bleed, always wear leather work gloves. About every fourth sharpen I bite the bullet and let the lawn mower place sharpen them and take down the rakers properly.

I don't use a chainsaw much now, but I guess I learned at an old school. When using a saw all day, I usually touch up the blade a couple of times. Maybe three light passes with a sharp file on each tooth is all it takes. I don't trust myself with those electric gizmos; I figured that I would have problems taking the same amount off of each tooth.

Once I sharpened a chain for a while I got a pretty good feel for the angle, but I check myself with one of those guides that attaches to a file once in a while. I rotate the file periodically as I use it so that the file wears evenly. I sharpen the blade in the saw so I uses the blade brake to hold the chain firmly. Push the file from the inside of the tooth to the outside. I set the saw infront of me at an angle matching the teeth so I am always pushing the file straight away from me (with my chains 30 degrees and I have the file pointing about 10 degrees uphill); I sharpen half the teeth and then flip the saw around and do the other half.

At the end of each day, I remove the chain and clean it and the bar and sprockets. At the same time, I clean the entire saw. Once and a while, I flip the bar over and start using the otherside; some bars should only be installed one way.

One word of caution: Besides not cutting well, an improperly sharpenened chain can cause the chain to run roughly, wear quickly, break, or become more prone to kickback.

I just found these directions for sharpening chains on Oregon's website http://www.oregonchain.com/faq.htm#sharpening

Hello and Thanks Phil for posting the web site link.
Also your well explained hand sharpening method.

As you mentioned, the saws bar is another important part that needs regular attention. Your tip on turning it over periodically is very correct.

Your also correct on the fact that some bars are not designed to be turned over. Chain saw owners should read their machines instruction manual and follow the manufacturers reccommendation pertaining to bar maintenance.

If the bar doesn't get turned over during regular maintenance, one side of the rail will wear more then the other. An uneven bar rail will cause the chain to tilt slightly, which in turn causes uneven cutting and excessive chain wear.

Those of us with professional sharpeners shops, have a special machine called a 'bar rail grinder' designed for the sole purpose of truing up the bar rail.

Regards,
Tom

I guess I'm from the old school as well, hand sharpening. If I use a power tool such as a Dremel I tend to take to much off. I just bite the bullet and do it by hand. Use the chain brake to keep it still. The first thing I do is clean up the saw so that I can see what I am looking at. Then I take a felt marker, black, blue, pink, whatever you like or is handy and mark the first tooth that I sharpen. That way I know when I have come all the way around. Once and a while I take the saw down to have it proffesionaly done as well to get the most out of my chain. Also turning the bar over is a good idea, if it is designed for it. Also look at the tip of the bar, on some models there is a grease hole to keep the sprocket lubed. Tip greasers are cheap and a great investment.

I've been logging for a few years now, but never hand-sharpened a chain. I went to the store and bought a guide, but then belatedly saw it was a 3/8 guide and I have 7/32 size chain and files. Do I need to just return the guide and get the proper size or is 3/8 vs. 7/32 basically the same size and will properly get the job done?

I would not sharpen a chain using a rotary stone or file without some kind of depth gauge. If you are just a tad too low, the tooth's edge will be too thin and won't last long. Too high, and the edge is too blunt. Those who do it freehand are either fooling themselves or very lucky to have the skill to get it right.

I like the Oregon 12 volt rotary grinder, it has a guide plate that gives you the correct depth and the angle. The plate is just the right size to ride on the depth gauges on either side of the tooth. All you need to do is give the tool the right horizontal angle.
Open up the hood of the ol' pickup and hook 'er up, or have a dedicated battery for the job. I've been using the same battery for about a year without need of a charge, two or three times a week during the heating season.

This original post is seven years old.

Wow, I never even looked at the dates. Scurvy dug way back to get this one!
Wonder what kind of forum interface was used back then? Newsgroup?
I first got online in '99. Maybe I'm back in there also :)