Furniture, Wood and Cabinetry Finishing - Bleaching and restaining wood
Doityourself.com community forum was created to provide answers to all questions related to home improvement and home repair. Doityourself community can help you find information about how-to topics on small fixes to large remodeling projects. With comprehensive how-to content and expertly moderated community forums DoItYourself.com makes it easy to tackle even the most complex home improvement projects.View Full Version : Bleaching and restaining wood
04-16-01, 01:10 PM
I have a set of 6 chairs that I ordered new in a "vintage oak finish" in an attempt to match a unique aged oak (dense 100 year old barnwood) farmhouse table. They are ladder back french country chairs with(removable) rush seats. It turns out that the chairs are much too light and flat brown and the table has some warmer hues, like a honey pine. I would like to refinish the chairs, they were imported and expensive so I want to be sure that I do it right. Should I strip them first to remove the poly and then bleach to partially remove the stain before restaining them? Do I need to seal them after bleaching so that the stain will take evenly? They do have some distressing marks, part of the original requested finish and I know that it will be tough to get the original color out of those. Any helpful hints about how to handle adding depth to this flat color would be much appreciated. I have seen this same chair in a cherry finish and a honey pine that looks more rich and warm. How do I add some warmth to these?
George
04-16-01, 03:43 PM
Joelle:
First, I have my doubts as to whether the finish is poly - most factories, including overseas, don't use it. It takes too long to dry. Test an inconspicuous area with lacquer thinner and a rag. Dampen the rag and rub in a small circle. If the rag starts to drag or stick, the finish you have is lacquer.
Now, as to your questions:
If the wood is oak, a conditioner or sealer to assure uniformity of stain should not be necessary, but it won't hurt. I'd use a conditioner and NOT a sealer, unless you thin it considerably.
Again, if the wood is oak and the finish is extremely smooth now, you will need a wood filler of some sort. Oak is a very open grain wood, and stripping will remove the filler as well as the finish.
In order to get the color you want I'd say you'd have to strip them and start from square one.
2-part bleaches will remove some of the stain, if indeed there is any (the color may be all in the finish). Bleaching will NOT remove all the stain.
Are you certain the distress marks are physical (actual dents, sctaches, etc.)? Many factories fake them - "painting" them in, so to speak. If you can't feel the indentation, you're dealing with painted distress marks.
From your description I get the idea the pieces were 'painted' with a opaque lacquer. If this is the case, even if the distressing is physical, a little work with a brass bristle brush should remove all the color of the current finish. If the distressing is physical, those same dents will go darker when you restain, even with a conditioner.
Warm tones usually denote the presence of reds, oranges and yellows. Choose your stain accordingly. Depth is achieved by smoothness more than anything else. Those mirror finishes that look like you're looking to a well are just fractions of an inch (2-4 millemeters, usually) thick. They get there by smoothness. BTW, that look of depth has nothing to do with sheen - you can get the same look with a satin finish.
First, I have my doubts as to whether the finish is poly - most factories, including overseas, don't use it. It takes too long to dry. Test an inconspicuous area with lacquer thinner and a rag. Dampen the rag and rub in a small circle. If the rag starts to drag or stick, the finish you have is lacquer.
Now, as to your questions:
If the wood is oak, a conditioner or sealer to assure uniformity of stain should not be necessary, but it won't hurt. I'd use a conditioner and NOT a sealer, unless you thin it considerably.
Again, if the wood is oak and the finish is extremely smooth now, you will need a wood filler of some sort. Oak is a very open grain wood, and stripping will remove the filler as well as the finish.
In order to get the color you want I'd say you'd have to strip them and start from square one.
2-part bleaches will remove some of the stain, if indeed there is any (the color may be all in the finish). Bleaching will NOT remove all the stain.
Are you certain the distress marks are physical (actual dents, sctaches, etc.)? Many factories fake them - "painting" them in, so to speak. If you can't feel the indentation, you're dealing with painted distress marks.
From your description I get the idea the pieces were 'painted' with a opaque lacquer. If this is the case, even if the distressing is physical, a little work with a brass bristle brush should remove all the color of the current finish. If the distressing is physical, those same dents will go darker when you restain, even with a conditioner.
Warm tones usually denote the presence of reds, oranges and yellows. Choose your stain accordingly. Depth is achieved by smoothness more than anything else. Those mirror finishes that look like you're looking to a well are just fractions of an inch (2-4 millemeters, usually) thick. They get there by smoothness. BTW, that look of depth has nothing to do with sheen - you can get the same look with a satin finish.