Solid Hardwood, Engineered and Laminate Flooring - Laminate floor transition strips

In my new home, I chose WilsonArt laminate flooring for the entry, library, great room, kitchen, hallways. It is quite beautiful, however I am unhappy with the "raised transition strips" as you go from one room to the next. There are no doorways between any area. My expectation was that the flooring would flow from one area to the next without interruption of any kind. So, my question is if this is routine, or was my floor improperly installed?

Any comments are welcomed. Thanks.

The discription of the installation sounds like it is an acceptable option. There are practical and asthetic or design considerations involved in a proper installation. What was specified and were drawings or sketches provided in advance? What was specified in the "bill of materials" for transitions? Unless specific materials and design specifications are specified there is little room for objection. With all of things that are involved in a new home purchase it's not easy to find all of the i's to dot or all of Tee's to cross.

I don't think the floor was improperally installed, rather the installer was following guidelines that many of the manufacturers recommend. If I recall, any area than runs in excess of 25 or 30 feet in any direction a t-molding should be used to alleviate any expansion movement of the material.

Personally, I don't really buy it and use 1/2" expansion on the perimeter in larger layouts. Doorways can be a problem if they're not under cut well and I have had one problem there, which required the casing to be removed so the flooring could be chiseled back to allow for more expansion.

I suppose I play a dangerous game but with experience in genuine hardwood flooring, I've always learned to go with 1/2" expansion and not the suggested 1/4" that many laminates recommend. Why don't they just call for 3/8- 1/2" expansion areas. I feel this would eliminate alot of problems associated with buckling and so forth? In most cases the quarter round or baseboard used will be 5/8- 3/4" in thickness and would cover easily.

My .02 worth:)

Ken; Your .02 cents is right on for my money. I've used and recommended a 7/16" gap almost from day one. I use the 7/16" because so much of the base molding I see is 1/2" - 5/8" and I seldom see much shrink. I also understand moisture proofing the cut edges but I don't think much of filling the gap with silicone. There are water proofing liquids and even silicone can be wiped on the edges left raw from cutting to fit. Either will seal the untreated edges. When 1/4 round is added more gap should be also. Boy; I hate to see a floor buckle!