Solid Hardwood, Engineered and Laminate Flooring - Nailing Prefinished Hardwood Flooring
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04-11-01, 04:48 PM
I'm planning to install 3/4" prefinished hardwood (oak - 2 1/4" wide boards) over a plywood above-grade subfloor. I would prefer to nail instead of glue and plan to rent an air-power assisted floor nailer from a local tool rental establishment. I think I have it figured out except for when I get to the opposite wall and run out of room for the nailer which is at least 18" in length. I'm afraid I'll damage the boards if I use a hammer without the guidance of the floor nailer, particularly as I get close to the wall. How do I resolve this problem? Thanks for any suggestions.
04-12-01, 08:52 AM
Rent a 15 or 16 gauge finish nailer and you will have to face nail those last boards down. Putty will fill the nail holes.
Elite Flooring/Ken Fisher
04-12-01, 03:22 PM
The carpenter is almost correct but the use of a pneumatic finish nailer is right on target. When reaching that wall area it will be important to set aside some of the straightest boards when laying or "racking out" the floor. A flooring stapler has the strength to correct many twisted boards upon installation, but when you reach the wall line you'll have unwanted gappage.
The only boards that should be topnailed are ones in which can't be side nailed with the pneumatic gun...as you get within 5-6" or so from the wall. Getting those last 4-5 rows in tight can be a problem as well as you can't tap with a hammer. "Wally Wall Pullers" work great here, or at least that's what I call 'em. Otherwise known as a "wall pull," it's shaped to allow one to pull or knock the last rows into place. Hard to descibe but you can get one for $49 at http://www.hoskinghardwood.com when you click on flooring accessories...scroll halfway down the page.
Then again, I use a long handled screwdriver and hammer to gently pry the last few rows into place if I have a few twisted boards. I wish I was a carpenter so I could offer advice in that trade...hehe. If you want advice on carpentry call the carpenter and vice versa for the hardwood flooring guy.
The only boards that should be topnailed are ones in which can't be side nailed with the pneumatic gun...as you get within 5-6" or so from the wall. Getting those last 4-5 rows in tight can be a problem as well as you can't tap with a hammer. "Wally Wall Pullers" work great here, or at least that's what I call 'em. Otherwise known as a "wall pull," it's shaped to allow one to pull or knock the last rows into place. Hard to descibe but you can get one for $49 at http://www.hoskinghardwood.com when you click on flooring accessories...scroll halfway down the page.
Then again, I use a long handled screwdriver and hammer to gently pry the last few rows into place if I have a few twisted boards. I wish I was a carpenter so I could offer advice in that trade...hehe. If you want advice on carpentry call the carpenter and vice versa for the hardwood flooring guy.
04-20-01, 09:30 AM
If that's a dig, haha.
I have installed this stuff too. Wood and nails is carpentry.
I have installed this stuff too. Wood and nails is carpentry.