Bricks, Masonry, Asphalt and Concrete - Mow strip
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MARTINSR
03-18-01, 11:30 PM
I plan on putting a mow strip along a fence about 20 inches away from it. I think it should be about 5" wide, but I dont know how deep. I have some ideas to how to make the form and so on, but I just can't figure out how deep to do it.
I Also have thought about making it a little wider and putting brick on top of it so it would have about a 4" mow strip and brick on top on the fence side as a decorative border. How would I attach the brick to the strip?
Thanks for the help :)
I Also have thought about making it a little wider and putting brick on top of it so it would have about a 4" mow strip and brick on top on the fence side as a decorative border. How would I attach the brick to the strip?
Thanks for the help :)
2000
03-19-01, 09:01 PM
Minimum thickness for concrete is 3.5". Include 3/8" expansion joints every 12'. Mortar the brick to the
concrete. Leave a weep hole every 4' and fill the joint over the expansion strips with elastomeric caulk (color of mortar) >hardware store.
BTW, some people use brick laid on sand for mower strips. Trench, weed killer (pre-emergent), landscape fabric, 2-3" sand, brick, lock up with sand/dry sand + cement, then moisten.
concrete. Leave a weep hole every 4' and fill the joint over the expansion strips with elastomeric caulk (color of mortar) >hardware store.
BTW, some people use brick laid on sand for mower strips. Trench, weed killer (pre-emergent), landscape fabric, 2-3" sand, brick, lock up with sand/dry sand + cement, then moisten.
MARTINSR
03-19-01, 10:03 PM
Thanks, I thought much thicker so that is good new. On the second idea you gave me, I saw the guys who did my fence use that procedure witht eh fence post (dry cement then just add water to the hole). If you did as you have said, this is strong enough? If I added more cement under it I would think I could do it the same way right?
2000
03-20-01, 10:37 PM
When brick is used one of the best overall methods is landscape fabric, 4" of compacted crushed stone, more landscape fabric, 1 1/2-2" of compacted masonry sand, then locked up with dry sand and cement swept between the joints, then moistened (joints may be wet mortared also). This methods solves a number of problems. Two of the main ones are frost heaving and possible sulfate attack of cement products.
When frost heaving and drainage are not problems; the soil is firm and not laden with gypsum or another sulfate, you may lay 30# building paper, apply a 1" thick layer of wet mortar and set the brick directly in the mortar.
For concrete mix and pour. You are not rat proofing under a house or setting a fence post. The idea is destine for quick failure. Repeating: the best overall method is the first one.
When frost heaving and drainage are not problems; the soil is firm and not laden with gypsum or another sulfate, you may lay 30# building paper, apply a 1" thick layer of wet mortar and set the brick directly in the mortar.
For concrete mix and pour. You are not rat proofing under a house or setting a fence post. The idea is destine for quick failure. Repeating: the best overall method is the first one.