Flooring Tile - shower remodel
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03-14-01, 01:12 PM
hey john, i finally made it back with more questions. i am rebuilding a ceramic shower with a mud floor for the pan. you clued me in on michael byrne's book and it has helped a great deal. i have gotten to the stage of putting in the pan membrane. when i go to the local home remadeling place all they have is 40 ml pvc pan liner. mike recommends cpe pan liner. is the pvc liner as good or should i continue to look for the cpe liner. nevranuff
John Bridge
03-14-01, 03:36 PM
Michael and I do not agree on some things (a number of things, actually). He insists on CPE, which as you have discovered, is hard to obtain. I have used PVC for the past thirty years without a single failure, except when the material was installed incorrectly. Do yourself a favor and buy the PVC.
Another item would be Michael's insistence on placing mesh in the shower floor. I have never heard of anyone else doing that. It certainly can't hurt anything, though, unless you snag the pan material on it.
If you use the dam corners that are recommended, you'll probably have to get them from a plumbing supply, and you will find that they are PVC also. Michael doesn't really get in to how the dam/curb is actually mudded. You'll need some help there. Ask when you get that far.
Lots of luck,
John
http://www.johnbridge.com
Another item would be Michael's insistence on placing mesh in the shower floor. I have never heard of anyone else doing that. It certainly can't hurt anything, though, unless you snag the pan material on it.
If you use the dam corners that are recommended, you'll probably have to get them from a plumbing supply, and you will find that they are PVC also. Michael doesn't really get in to how the dam/curb is actually mudded. You'll need some help there. Ask when you get that far.
Lots of luck,
John
http://www.johnbridge.com
03-20-01, 06:16 AM
john, do i put roofing tar under the pvc membrane? i am also tearing out all the old drywall from the shower. when i replace the ceiling do i put a vapor barrier up there? i am interested in hearing your ideas on floating the curb.
thanks for the tips,
mark
thanks for the tips,
mark
John Bridge
03-20-01, 02:53 PM
Hi Mark,
You don't need roofing tar under the pan. Just make sure your mud float is clean and smooth.
You don't need a moisture barrier at the ceiling unless you are building a steam shower. I don't think you are.
If you've used 2/4s for the curb/dam, you bring the pan material up over the top and wrap it down the front a little, where you can nail it. Use the dam corners for the pan. You'll have to get them from a plumbing supply.
Bend a pre-cut piece of lath into the "U" shape of the curb, and simply fit it over the curb. Nail it at the front side only. Then lay a bed of wall mortar along the top of the curb and lay a straightedge flat on it. Use the edge of the straightedge as a guide when you apply mortar to the inside vertical surface. Move the straightedge out and use it to line up the face of the curb. A little experimenting and you'll get the hang of it. After you've tiled the face and the inside of the curb (level rows of tiles), you can finish floating out the top. The front of the curb needs to be about an eighth higher than the inside so that the top is tilted inward.
This is a lot for one post. You'd better come back with more questions.
John
http://www.johnbridge.com
You don't need roofing tar under the pan. Just make sure your mud float is clean and smooth.
You don't need a moisture barrier at the ceiling unless you are building a steam shower. I don't think you are.
If you've used 2/4s for the curb/dam, you bring the pan material up over the top and wrap it down the front a little, where you can nail it. Use the dam corners for the pan. You'll have to get them from a plumbing supply.
Bend a pre-cut piece of lath into the "U" shape of the curb, and simply fit it over the curb. Nail it at the front side only. Then lay a bed of wall mortar along the top of the curb and lay a straightedge flat on it. Use the edge of the straightedge as a guide when you apply mortar to the inside vertical surface. Move the straightedge out and use it to line up the face of the curb. A little experimenting and you'll get the hang of it. After you've tiled the face and the inside of the curb (level rows of tiles), you can finish floating out the top. The front of the curb needs to be about an eighth higher than the inside so that the top is tilted inward.
This is a lot for one post. You'd better come back with more questions.
John
http://www.johnbridge.com
03-20-01, 07:56 PM
i am having trouble finding the dam corners for the thresh hold. any suggestions on where to get them? the local plumbing supply places do not have them. also how thick should the motar bed be. and should i put the wire mesh in the bed mortar? i used the mesh in the slope floor mud. i bought extra pvc so i could make my own corner patches to reinforce the corners, but am not sure how to fashion curb dams.
thanks
mark
thanks
mark
John Bridge
03-21-01, 06:21 AM
Mark,
I don't know why you would need to reinforce the corners unless you cut the material. I hope you didn't do that.
Find out where the local plumbers buy their parts. They'll have the dam corners.
You don't need lath in the shower floor, and the thickness of the mortar depends on how high you set the drain. The floor slopes upward from the drain.
John
I don't know why you would need to reinforce the corners unless you cut the material. I hope you didn't do that.
Find out where the local plumbers buy their parts. They'll have the dam corners.
You don't need lath in the shower floor, and the thickness of the mortar depends on how high you set the drain. The floor slopes upward from the drain.
John