Wallpaper and Wallcoverings - How far down do you go?
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02-28-01, 11:31 PM
We have recently bought a condo and have started stripping the old paper and have run into a question. While it isn't very hard at this point, we were wondering how far you needed to go in your stripping? In some areas the paper that actually covers the sheetrock is coming off as well. once we saw this we stopped, so we haven't totally ruined anything if we shouldn't take it this far, but we were still unsure. We are looking to repaint instead of repaper, and wanted to find out if we should take all of the paper off the walls or if we should try to stop before we hit the white sheetrock? Thanks.
Justin
Justin
Resqman
03-01-01, 09:59 AM
Whoa! Too far. You are stripping wallpaper, not the sheetrock. Sheetrock is paper backed. Leave the paper that is the sheetrock, remove the wallpaper.
You can get some joint compound at the hardware store. Get a few of the tape knifes. Depending on the size you are trying to patch, you might need the 12" knifes. Mix the joint compound to remove lumps and evenly distribute the water. Then apply in thin coats. Let dry. Once you have filled the area even with the surrounding sheetrock, apply one more thin layer that overlaps on to the normal sheetrock. Sand to remove any imperfections. You can also use a damp sponge to "sand" the joint compound. Sponging eliminates the horrible joint compound dust.
Alternately get a sanding block that attaches to your shopvac, about $15 at Lowe's. Get the sheetrock dust vacuum bag for the shopvac. Get the sand "paper" that looks like screen. The shopvac will suck the sanding dust throught the screen sandpaper and sanding block into the special collection bag that controls the extra fine joint compound dust. If you don't use the special bag, you will just blow the joint compound dust around the area of the shopvac.
Joint compound is very porus and will absorb your paint. Make sure you prime with at least one coat before your begin your final coats of paint. I usually paint once with the brush while cutting the edges. Then I roll over it again before I do the rest of the room to add the texture of a roller. Then I roll the rest of the room starting next to the patch. By the time I get around the room back to the starting point, the first coat is dry enough for a final coat over the patch. Rolling the patch twice helps to hide the patch under the texture created by the roller.
You can get some joint compound at the hardware store. Get a few of the tape knifes. Depending on the size you are trying to patch, you might need the 12" knifes. Mix the joint compound to remove lumps and evenly distribute the water. Then apply in thin coats. Let dry. Once you have filled the area even with the surrounding sheetrock, apply one more thin layer that overlaps on to the normal sheetrock. Sand to remove any imperfections. You can also use a damp sponge to "sand" the joint compound. Sponging eliminates the horrible joint compound dust.
Alternately get a sanding block that attaches to your shopvac, about $15 at Lowe's. Get the sheetrock dust vacuum bag for the shopvac. Get the sand "paper" that looks like screen. The shopvac will suck the sanding dust throught the screen sandpaper and sanding block into the special collection bag that controls the extra fine joint compound dust. If you don't use the special bag, you will just blow the joint compound dust around the area of the shopvac.
Joint compound is very porus and will absorb your paint. Make sure you prime with at least one coat before your begin your final coats of paint. I usually paint once with the brush while cutting the edges. Then I roll over it again before I do the rest of the room to add the texture of a roller. Then I roll the rest of the room starting next to the patch. By the time I get around the room back to the starting point, the first coat is dry enough for a final coat over the patch. Rolling the patch twice helps to hide the patch under the texture created by the roller.