Doors and Windows - windows
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02-07-01, 08:11 AM
I have been looking for new vinyal windows. I have several prices matched with several brands. I am just learning about windows so I do not know what is a good brand of windows to go with. I was wondering what brand you reccomend and why ? I also would like to know if American Craftsman is a good qulality window to go with? and what is your opinion? The type of windows is Low E with Argon.
lefty
02-07-01, 07:04 PM
Buying windows is, in some ways, a lot like buying a new car. First, you know what you can afford. That, by itself, might rule out some brands. (We can't all drive Porsche's or Ferrari's!). With vinyl windows, you are looking at basically 4 things for all of the windows in your price range.
Frame construction. You want a window that has mitered, welded corners, not one that has butt joints held together with screws. Those can leak. You want the salesperson to show you a cross-section of their window frame. You want one that has several internal ribs supporting and tying together the outside parts of the frame. The more "tubes" you see on the inside of the frame, the better.
Glass construction. Look between the panes of glass. You are looking for a window with an air space of at least 1/2" between the 2 panes of glass. You are also looking at what seperates the panes. If you see a dull gray spacer (butyl), you're looking at a good window. If you see a shiny spacer (aluminum), look elsewhere.
Warranties. You want a life-time warranty on the frame. This should cover discoloration as well as leaking. You want a good warranty on the seal of the glass (10 years is a good warranty here). This portion of the warrany covers the IG unit (the glass). If it 'fogs up' within the warranty period, you want it replaced. Both should cover labor AND material.
Festation ratings. This is the 'MPG sticker of windows'. Don't worry about "how" the numbers are arrived at, what you are comparing is the numbers themselves, between the various brands. The lower the number, the better. But compare apples with apples, and oranges with oranges here. You mentioned low-E glass and argon. A window that has both will have a lower festation rating than a window that has only one or the other. My 'personal' prejudice would be to get the low-E, and forego the argon. Put the money you save by doing so into up-grading to a better frame, better glass construction, and a better warranty. But that is because I live in a climate where cooling is a bigger expense than heating.
Congratulations!! You just got the 'Lefty Award' for receiving the longest post of the month from me!
Frame construction. You want a window that has mitered, welded corners, not one that has butt joints held together with screws. Those can leak. You want the salesperson to show you a cross-section of their window frame. You want one that has several internal ribs supporting and tying together the outside parts of the frame. The more "tubes" you see on the inside of the frame, the better.
Glass construction. Look between the panes of glass. You are looking for a window with an air space of at least 1/2" between the 2 panes of glass. You are also looking at what seperates the panes. If you see a dull gray spacer (butyl), you're looking at a good window. If you see a shiny spacer (aluminum), look elsewhere.
Warranties. You want a life-time warranty on the frame. This should cover discoloration as well as leaking. You want a good warranty on the seal of the glass (10 years is a good warranty here). This portion of the warrany covers the IG unit (the glass). If it 'fogs up' within the warranty period, you want it replaced. Both should cover labor AND material.
Festation ratings. This is the 'MPG sticker of windows'. Don't worry about "how" the numbers are arrived at, what you are comparing is the numbers themselves, between the various brands. The lower the number, the better. But compare apples with apples, and oranges with oranges here. You mentioned low-E glass and argon. A window that has both will have a lower festation rating than a window that has only one or the other. My 'personal' prejudice would be to get the low-E, and forego the argon. Put the money you save by doing so into up-grading to a better frame, better glass construction, and a better warranty. But that is because I live in a climate where cooling is a bigger expense than heating.
Congratulations!! You just got the 'Lefty Award' for receiving the longest post of the month from me!
pvl
02-07-01, 09:46 PM
Thanks lefty for the reply.
I'm not an expert on windows but would like to post because I've researched them and am having CertainTeed Bryn Mawr II vinyl installed tomorrow.
I spent several weeks looking at American Craftsman, Pella, and Andersen at Home Depot. I was most impressed with the Andersen but they only have standard sizes, which did not exactly match my openings. CertainTeed custom fits the windows like most of the other window manufacturers.
Lefty pointed out at least 1/2" between the panes. Bryn Mawr II is 7/8". Welded construction, not screws. "Low "E" glazing system with low conductance space for the best R-value in its class:"...and it fared in the top five Window Manufacturers I believe in the October 2000, Consumer Reports. With it, Marvin #1, and I forget the order but Andersen, Pella, and CertainTeed's Bryn Mawr.
Cost? Toward the high end but I should eventually get part of it back on saved energy bills.
These double-hung windows have the tilt-in feature for easy cleaning. I'm also getting three casement or crank outs.
Experts, please excuse me and correct me if I am out of my league, you guys are the pros, I'm just a consumer who's settled on a window brand.
Thanks,
pvl
I'm not an expert on windows but would like to post because I've researched them and am having CertainTeed Bryn Mawr II vinyl installed tomorrow.
I spent several weeks looking at American Craftsman, Pella, and Andersen at Home Depot. I was most impressed with the Andersen but they only have standard sizes, which did not exactly match my openings. CertainTeed custom fits the windows like most of the other window manufacturers.
Lefty pointed out at least 1/2" between the panes. Bryn Mawr II is 7/8". Welded construction, not screws. "Low "E" glazing system with low conductance space for the best R-value in its class:"...and it fared in the top five Window Manufacturers I believe in the October 2000, Consumer Reports. With it, Marvin #1, and I forget the order but Andersen, Pella, and CertainTeed's Bryn Mawr.
Cost? Toward the high end but I should eventually get part of it back on saved energy bills.
These double-hung windows have the tilt-in feature for easy cleaning. I'm also getting three casement or crank outs.
Experts, please excuse me and correct me if I am out of my league, you guys are the pros, I'm just a consumer who's settled on a window brand.
Thanks,
pvl
lefty
02-08-01, 04:06 AM
You made a good choice. You are absolutely right about these windows paying for themselves in utility savings. Depending on how good or how poor your original windows were, you should expect to see your utility bill for heating and cooling drop at least 10%, possibly as much as 40% or 50%. You'll enjoy the quiet, too. These windows will greatly reduce the amount of outside noise that enters your home.
pvl
02-08-01, 09:12 AM
Thanks lefty!
I live in Grapevine, Texas which is right next to big DFW airport so the window quiet will be an added bonus, thanks for mentioning that. The old ones were fogged up double-paned aluminums. Not real high quality 17 year old windows.
pvl
I live in Grapevine, Texas which is right next to big DFW airport so the window quiet will be an added bonus, thanks for mentioning that. The old ones were fogged up double-paned aluminums. Not real high quality 17 year old windows.
pvl