Kitchen Gas Appliances - Gas Burner-Down
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02-05-01, 09:34 AM
Gas Burner-Down
This is a Mueller Climatrol Attic Gas burner dated in the early 50's.
Model 155-90 Serial 2JL, Input: 90,000BTU Output: 72,000. Unit operates normally until for no reason goes "DOWN". When the system is down it produces no heat and the manual blower switch does not work. By turning the thernostat up all the way and banging on the unit, after a period of time the unit will run fine for days until it goes down again. I am stumped as to where the problem lies. When a service tech was brought in he replaced the solinoid, valve, and some shut-off with a combination type control saying that the solinoid had seased-up and that the other controls were outdated. He suggested replacing the blower motor belt; it may be stopping the unit from running properly. I don't think that will solve the problem and I still have the original problem. Is their a sensor in the heat exchanger that could be causing the problem? Should I remove the transformer to see if their is a short at the main wiring? I'm at a loss because this is an intermittent problem and I can not isolate it. Some guidence would be greatly apprieciated.
This is a Mueller Climatrol Attic Gas burner dated in the early 50's.
Model 155-90 Serial 2JL, Input: 90,000BTU Output: 72,000. Unit operates normally until for no reason goes "DOWN". When the system is down it produces no heat and the manual blower switch does not work. By turning the thernostat up all the way and banging on the unit, after a period of time the unit will run fine for days until it goes down again. I am stumped as to where the problem lies. When a service tech was brought in he replaced the solinoid, valve, and some shut-off with a combination type control saying that the solinoid had seased-up and that the other controls were outdated. He suggested replacing the blower motor belt; it may be stopping the unit from running properly. I don't think that will solve the problem and I still have the original problem. Is their a sensor in the heat exchanger that could be causing the problem? Should I remove the transformer to see if their is a short at the main wiring? I'm at a loss because this is an intermittent problem and I can not isolate it. Some guidence would be greatly apprieciated.
Sharp Advice
02-05-01, 04:47 PM
Hi:EM2840
Based on what you posted, which was very well discribed I might add, I would venture to say you have a loose wire connection some where.
You mentioned hand banging the unit caused it to work for a few days. Question is, what unit? If it's the heater unit, check there for faulty wires or loose wires.
Be sure to disconnect the electric power first. You mentioned that fact that not even the motor works in manual which may mean it could be a loose or faulty main electric power problem. House current <120+> volts can cause YOU huge problems so be sure it's OFF prior to checking!
If the hand banging is at the thermostat, remove it from the wall and check for current there. This current is low voltage <28 volts DC> at the thermostat and can be checked live.
Also, while your there at the t-stat, connect the two wires <red + white> together and see if the furnace operates correctly.
What the prior heating agent told you and replaced is correct based on the information you posted.
Should you not find any loose or faulty wires, etc., check for continuity between the furnace and the t-stats wires. Check the main power supply cord also. BE SURE the cord is unpluged! And yes. If you can, check the transformer also.
Reply back with the results of this testing, in this thread and advise me for further info.
Based on what you posted, which was very well discribed I might add, I would venture to say you have a loose wire connection some where.
You mentioned hand banging the unit caused it to work for a few days. Question is, what unit? If it's the heater unit, check there for faulty wires or loose wires.
Be sure to disconnect the electric power first. You mentioned that fact that not even the motor works in manual which may mean it could be a loose or faulty main electric power problem. House current <120+> volts can cause YOU huge problems so be sure it's OFF prior to checking!
If the hand banging is at the thermostat, remove it from the wall and check for current there. This current is low voltage <28 volts DC> at the thermostat and can be checked live.
Also, while your there at the t-stat, connect the two wires <red + white> together and see if the furnace operates correctly.
What the prior heating agent told you and replaced is correct based on the information you posted.
Should you not find any loose or faulty wires, etc., check for continuity between the furnace and the t-stats wires. Check the main power supply cord also. BE SURE the cord is unpluged! And yes. If you can, check the transformer also.
Reply back with the results of this testing, in this thread and advise me for further info.
02-06-01, 07:25 PM
Tom,
Thanks for the quick and informative response to my inqury.
I tested the thermostat and the wiring to the unit. all seems to be okay. I know that banging on the furnace is not proper prceedure, in fact during multiple attempts to get the unit to malfunction I realized that it was not the banging that got the unit running, it was pulling on the belt and moving the motor pulley. With this new information I retested everything I could think of and my best guess is that there is a dead spot on the blower motor. Does this sound valid? I know some of what goes on in there and I just want to coax her along until we replace it in the spring. I can't get back to it until the weekend to replace the motor, but I will check back to see if you concur with my findings. Thanks again.
Eddie
Thanks for the quick and informative response to my inqury.
I tested the thermostat and the wiring to the unit. all seems to be okay. I know that banging on the furnace is not proper prceedure, in fact during multiple attempts to get the unit to malfunction I realized that it was not the banging that got the unit running, it was pulling on the belt and moving the motor pulley. With this new information I retested everything I could think of and my best guess is that there is a dead spot on the blower motor. Does this sound valid? I know some of what goes on in there and I just want to coax her along until we replace it in the spring. I can't get back to it until the weekend to replace the motor, but I will check back to see if you concur with my findings. Thanks again.
Eddie
Sharp Advice
02-06-01, 07:55 PM
Hi:Eddie
Your new findings regarding the fan motor are valid. It is quite likely the starter windings in the motor may be burned out. It could also be the starter motor capacitor.
If the bearings on the motor have oiling holes, it's possible the bearings are too dry. Add a few drops to each cap, located on each end of the motor just above the bearings. Any lite weight oil will do fine.
If all else fails, remove the whole motor, take it to any electric motor repair store, have it tested. If it's defective, it's your choice to repair it or replace it depending on costs, etc.
Also inspect the belt while your at it. Might be a good idea to also replace it if need be.
Your new findings regarding the fan motor are valid. It is quite likely the starter windings in the motor may be burned out. It could also be the starter motor capacitor.
If the bearings on the motor have oiling holes, it's possible the bearings are too dry. Add a few drops to each cap, located on each end of the motor just above the bearings. Any lite weight oil will do fine.
If all else fails, remove the whole motor, take it to any electric motor repair store, have it tested. If it's defective, it's your choice to repair it or replace it depending on costs, etc.
Also inspect the belt while your at it. Might be a good idea to also replace it if need be.