Kitchen Gas Appliances - Pilot won't stay lit.
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02-03-01, 09:47 AM
I have a LP gas fireplace insert from Heat-N-Glo, model 6000XLT, with a wall start switch. The unit has worked great for three years. Now, the pilot light will not stay lit. The pilot light will light just fine as long as I push and hold the pilot light knob. As soon as I release the pilot light knob, the pilot light will go out.
Per the owner's manual, I tested the thermacouple and it tested O.K.. It produced 22mv when the pilot light was on. I repeated the test several times. The manual says that if the thermacouple produces less than 15mv the thermacouple would be bad and if it produces more 15mv then the control valve must be bad.
Before I replace the control valve($120), I just wanted to know if there is any other test that I may be able to do to insure that the valve is bad before I order a new one.
Per the owner's manual, I tested the thermacouple and it tested O.K.. It produced 22mv when the pilot light was on. I repeated the test several times. The manual says that if the thermacouple produces less than 15mv the thermacouple would be bad and if it produces more 15mv then the control valve must be bad.
Before I replace the control valve($120), I just wanted to know if there is any other test that I may be able to do to insure that the valve is bad before I order a new one.
Sharp Advice
02-03-01, 10:58 PM
Hi:Bobby
First off, I can't dispute what the manual says because I don't have one here to read myself. However, what you posted in the second paragraph is not correct based on my prior experience and in my opinion.
With the pilot generator <what you call a thermocouple> leads disconnected from the control, heated and tested, it should produce about 220 milivolts if it's the small size. Most decorative fireplaces use pilot generators of 500-750 milivolts.
The last sentence of that second paragraph doesn't make sense to me. Why would the lower current reading indicate a bad gas valve escapes me. It would indicate a worn out generator that needs replacing. Therefore, I would suggest you replace it first.
The test you should try is simple. Remove the wires from the wall switch and connect them together directly. Then attempt to reset the pilot. If it stays ON, could be a defective wall switch. If the pilot will not stay on, most likely it's a weak generator.
You also have to check if your fireplace has a vent cut out switch. It will be located up on the hood just below the damper mid center, if equipped. This item will have two wires connected to it. When cold, it should show continuity.
Best advice I can offer, is to complete the two tests I mentioned above. If they fail to show any defects, the least expensive item to start replacing is the pilot generator first.
Take the generator to the local appliance store and have it tested there and replace it first, if needed. At your option, remove the whole burner assembly and take it in for testing to save another trip back to the store.
Check the recent archives in this forum for other postings on this subject.
First off, I can't dispute what the manual says because I don't have one here to read myself. However, what you posted in the second paragraph is not correct based on my prior experience and in my opinion.
With the pilot generator <what you call a thermocouple> leads disconnected from the control, heated and tested, it should produce about 220 milivolts if it's the small size. Most decorative fireplaces use pilot generators of 500-750 milivolts.
The last sentence of that second paragraph doesn't make sense to me. Why would the lower current reading indicate a bad gas valve escapes me. It would indicate a worn out generator that needs replacing. Therefore, I would suggest you replace it first.
The test you should try is simple. Remove the wires from the wall switch and connect them together directly. Then attempt to reset the pilot. If it stays ON, could be a defective wall switch. If the pilot will not stay on, most likely it's a weak generator.
You also have to check if your fireplace has a vent cut out switch. It will be located up on the hood just below the damper mid center, if equipped. This item will have two wires connected to it. When cold, it should show continuity.
Best advice I can offer, is to complete the two tests I mentioned above. If they fail to show any defects, the least expensive item to start replacing is the pilot generator first.
Take the generator to the local appliance store and have it tested there and replace it first, if needed. At your option, remove the whole burner assembly and take it in for testing to save another trip back to the store.
Check the recent archives in this forum for other postings on this subject.