Kitchen Gas Appliances - Gas fireplace
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EdgeHarley
02-01-01, 03:22 PM
I have a gas fire place that is operated by the wall switch. However, I noticed that when I press the wall switch the fire will come on and then go out in less than a minute. If I press the wall switch again it will do the same thing. Do you think the problem is the wall switch or the fire place
itself.
itself.
Sharp Advice
02-01-01, 07:30 PM
Hi:EdgeHarley
Excellent question!
What you most likely have is referred to as a decorative log fireplace. <I presume.> That being the case, there are a few possibilities.
First check the wall switch. Remove the front cover, then carefully pull out the switch. Not to worry. This is NOT houseline electric current if the switch is an outlet in a box all of it's own. <Which most are>
Then carefully remove the two wires and connect them together. The fireplace should lite up and remain ON, if the switch is defective.
If this doesn't correct the condition, be sure the pilot flame is all blue. <It may even be slightly noisy, which is fine and indicates it's set correctly.
The key is to be sure the pilot generator <not a thermocouple> is being heated HOT. The pilot generators tip should be a glowing a deep <ideally bright> shade of red in color.
It's this HOT generator that produces the DC current to operate the whole system. Failure of the generator to be kept HOT as possible allows it NOT to produce it's full valve of DC current.
If the above isn't the case, compressed air <in a can> aimed down the flame hood cover <where the flame comes up> can be sprayed to blow out any dust that has collected there. <In most cases this method works>
These generators do age <which also causes it to produce less then it's full current capacity> and may need to be replaced, should all the other systems be okay and the pilot is keeping the generator HOT.
The pilot generator is available at the local appliance parts stores. Some hardware stores also carry them.
Generators do come in several sizes. Each size produces a different amount of current. I suggest you take the one currently installed with you should it need to be replaced.
Fact is, you can disconnect the whole assembly, remove the cement logs and take the whole burner assembly in for testing. This often times is the best idea since the gas valve contains the safety device and the solenoid that opens and closes from the current produced. One of these parts may also be all or part of the existing problem.
Excellent question!
What you most likely have is referred to as a decorative log fireplace. <I presume.> That being the case, there are a few possibilities.
First check the wall switch. Remove the front cover, then carefully pull out the switch. Not to worry. This is NOT houseline electric current if the switch is an outlet in a box all of it's own. <Which most are>
Then carefully remove the two wires and connect them together. The fireplace should lite up and remain ON, if the switch is defective.
If this doesn't correct the condition, be sure the pilot flame is all blue. <It may even be slightly noisy, which is fine and indicates it's set correctly.
The key is to be sure the pilot generator <not a thermocouple> is being heated HOT. The pilot generators tip should be a glowing a deep <ideally bright> shade of red in color.
It's this HOT generator that produces the DC current to operate the whole system. Failure of the generator to be kept HOT as possible allows it NOT to produce it's full valve of DC current.
If the above isn't the case, compressed air <in a can> aimed down the flame hood cover <where the flame comes up> can be sprayed to blow out any dust that has collected there. <In most cases this method works>
These generators do age <which also causes it to produce less then it's full current capacity> and may need to be replaced, should all the other systems be okay and the pilot is keeping the generator HOT.
The pilot generator is available at the local appliance parts stores. Some hardware stores also carry them.
Generators do come in several sizes. Each size produces a different amount of current. I suggest you take the one currently installed with you should it need to be replaced.
Fact is, you can disconnect the whole assembly, remove the cement logs and take the whole burner assembly in for testing. This often times is the best idea since the gas valve contains the safety device and the solenoid that opens and closes from the current produced. One of these parts may also be all or part of the existing problem.