Furniture, Wood and Cabinetry Finishing - refinishing pickled pine table and chairs
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01-28-01, 02:26 PM
I want to change my dining room table and chairs from a pickled finish to a dark brown weathered finish. The table has alot of grooves around the edges so I know stripping this furniture is out of the question for me. I refinished an old desk using stain kilz and a can of paint that had been diluted with paint thinner. It did real well and the paint doesn't scratch off like I was afraid it would. However, I am wanting to paint the surface, after priming, of course, then stain it with a dark brown finish. Being able to see the wood grain is not important to me. That is why I think this method would be best for the look I am after. I have never tried to stain a painted surface before and I don't want to ruin my dining room table. Do you think this method will work? If not, what should I do? Also, I know I will need to seal this wood to prevent waater rings and such. Any suggestions?
Thank you!!
Mikki
Thank you!!
Mikki
George
01-28-01, 04:56 PM
You can reach the look you want. Here are some tips on how to get there from where you are.
The sanding and sealing of the table with a good primer (KILZ is excellent) is imperative, of course. The 'stain' you want is actually a glaze - a very heavy-bodied stain that has a lot of pigment in it. Many better paint stores carry these glazes, or you can contact the links below for a catalog of what they have to offer. They both carry glazes and many other refinishing supplies.
Polyurethane comes to mind as a durable finish, as does standard varnish. I would avoid lacquer. It is all too susceptible to both heat and water marks.
It's entirely possible (and this is just a thought on my part) that you don't need to paint the table at all in order to get where you want to go. Glazes are normally brushed on (wet) and then 'feathered' with a dry brush to accent particular areas. But the glaze itself is opaque, if left on heavily. A combination of light and dark areas (thin and thick, if you will) allows part of the original finish to show through. These parts will be shaded to some extent by the glaze, but not obliterated.
You might want to paint a scrap of wood and give this method a try. Of course, if you're really interested in another color altogether showing through the glaze, then paint away.
http://www.vandykes.com
http://www.woodfinishsupply.com
The sanding and sealing of the table with a good primer (KILZ is excellent) is imperative, of course. The 'stain' you want is actually a glaze - a very heavy-bodied stain that has a lot of pigment in it. Many better paint stores carry these glazes, or you can contact the links below for a catalog of what they have to offer. They both carry glazes and many other refinishing supplies.
Polyurethane comes to mind as a durable finish, as does standard varnish. I would avoid lacquer. It is all too susceptible to both heat and water marks.
It's entirely possible (and this is just a thought on my part) that you don't need to paint the table at all in order to get where you want to go. Glazes are normally brushed on (wet) and then 'feathered' with a dry brush to accent particular areas. But the glaze itself is opaque, if left on heavily. A combination of light and dark areas (thin and thick, if you will) allows part of the original finish to show through. These parts will be shaded to some extent by the glaze, but not obliterated.
You might want to paint a scrap of wood and give this method a try. Of course, if you're really interested in another color altogether showing through the glaze, then paint away.
http://www.vandykes.com
http://www.woodfinishsupply.com