Solid Hardwood, Engineered and Laminate Flooring - Hardwood over or remove ceramic tile??
Doityourself.com community forum was created to provide answers to all questions related to home improvement and home repair. Doityourself community can help you find information about how-to topics on small fixes to large remodeling projects. With comprehensive how-to content and expertly moderated community forums DoItYourself.com makes it easy to tackle even the most complex home improvement projects.View Full Version : Hardwood over or remove ceramic tile??
01-17-01, 12:10 PM
I have 1000'sq of ugly 3/8" thick x 8" square ceramic tile on 3/4" plywood subfloor installed about 18 years ago. I'm planning on installing either 3/4" pre-finished hardwood planks or engineered strips. The question is do I rip up the tile and go with the planks or glue/float the engineered strips over the tile???
Elite Flooring/Ken Fisher
01-17-01, 01:33 PM
Letgo:
First thing I would consider is how well the ceramic is fastened to the plywood subfloor. Not that I see much tile over plywood, but I did run into one recently that was replaced fairly easily, and it was installed only six years ago without any subfloor damage.
I'd try to pop a few off the floor and see how easily the setting compound comes up. If it comes up horribly and takes alot of time, I'd have to recommend a floating engineered hardwood floor---providing you don't have any tiles that are loose and so forth.
Don't confuse floating strips with the preferred installation of what is often termed "longstrip." The wider engineered(7 1/2" in width) will bridge the tile grout joints much easier. 3" planks will not work
First thing I would consider is how well the ceramic is fastened to the plywood subfloor. Not that I see much tile over plywood, but I did run into one recently that was replaced fairly easily, and it was installed only six years ago without any subfloor damage.
I'd try to pop a few off the floor and see how easily the setting compound comes up. If it comes up horribly and takes alot of time, I'd have to recommend a floating engineered hardwood floor---providing you don't have any tiles that are loose and so forth.
Don't confuse floating strips with the preferred installation of what is often termed "longstrip." The wider engineered(7 1/2" in width) will bridge the tile grout joints much easier. 3" planks will not work
01-17-01, 04:02 PM
If we go with Longstrip (thanks for the tip)and float it, do I need to "level" out the grouted areas between the tiles?
Elite Flooring/Ken Fisher
01-18-01, 02:07 PM
Letgo:
In most cases I have dealt with there is no need to "level" the grout joints, unless you have irregular tile such as the Mexican variety.
In most cases I have dealt with there is no need to "level" the grout joints, unless you have irregular tile such as the Mexican variety.
camachinist
01-19-01, 09:14 AM
jlettko...
If the tile has given you good service and you see little cracked grout or tile, that likely means you have a good installation and a sound subfloor. If the tile is stuck real good and not easily removed, try this:
Try taking a straightedge, like a 4 or 6 foot carpenters level, and laying it down on your tile. Take a flashlight or drop light and shine from the opposite side while viewing under the straitedge...what do you see? Do this in a number of locations around your room...
You also might use the same straightedge and a sample of your foam padding as a guage...ultimately, the foam will be soaking up the hills and dales in your new laminate installation *G*.
Remember, if you leave the tile, you'll have an additional 3/8-1/2" of floor thickness to deal with after installing the laminate...
Good luck with your project!
Pat
If the tile has given you good service and you see little cracked grout or tile, that likely means you have a good installation and a sound subfloor. If the tile is stuck real good and not easily removed, try this:
Try taking a straightedge, like a 4 or 6 foot carpenters level, and laying it down on your tile. Take a flashlight or drop light and shine from the opposite side while viewing under the straitedge...what do you see? Do this in a number of locations around your room...
You also might use the same straightedge and a sample of your foam padding as a guage...ultimately, the foam will be soaking up the hills and dales in your new laminate installation *G*.
Remember, if you leave the tile, you'll have an additional 3/8-1/2" of floor thickness to deal with after installing the laminate...
Good luck with your project!
Pat