Flooring Tile - Greenboard meets Cement Board

I know I've seen this question answered more than once, but I don't seem to be able to put my hands on the answer right now... so, in the interest of avoiding stupid mistakes that I'll have to live with ;) I'll ask it again:

the tub surround I'm building will use cement backer board under the tiles. On both ends, the tile will end and transition to a regular painted/walpapered wall just beyond the tub. Obviously, to make this transition look right, I'll have to transition from cement board to greenboard before the end of the tile -- that's a no-brainer. The question is, how far back fron the tile edge should that transition be, and does it get taped and mudded as though it were a cement board joint? Any other special precautions I should observe in this transition?

Thanks!

D.

Now do you see, Dan, how easy it would be if the sheetrock ran behind the backer board?

Well, yeah it would be easier... as long as you're using the traditional 4 1/4 tiles with those radius bullnoses that are made with just that kind of transition in mind. In my case, however, the tile is one that doesn't have that style bullnose available -- basically, what they have available is a selection of straight bullnose pieces in various sizes. Wouldn't be a very nice edge ;)

D.

Hello Dancase

Along the top edge of the tile you can stop the cement backer board down fom the top somewhere around 4 inches. It should not matter that high up on the wall. Just do not stop it on the same leval of the tile joint. You do not want a grout joint directly on top of a wallboard joint.
On the vertical joints. This is going to be partly determinded by where the studs are located. You have to have backing , or a nailer, where the two join . If you are just using a 2+6 bullnose trim tile try to put the joint about 1 inch from the edge of the bullnose.

Hope you understand what I am trying to relay
RAY VAUGHN
http://www.tipsfromthetilepro.com

Yes, Ray, I get the picture. It's basically good common sense mixed in with a little GEP (Good Engineering Practice).Funny how that works! :)

D.

Hi Dancase,
Long time, I thought you got lost, Make the transition less than half of a tile if possible. of course backup the joint with a nailer, and make sure the joint between the sheetrock (drywall)and the backerboard is taped (and preferably siliconed under the tape) extra smooth.

No, not lost at all... just busy actually DOING the job instead of talking about it! ;)

So... if I get the picture here, you're saying to lay a bead of silicone in the joint, then tape and mud the joint just like the cement board joints? Do I have that picture in my head right? It makes sense (like I said above), but then again good sense is hard to find these days.

And of course, I can make the transition anywhere I want to -- after all, I'm also the framing guy. ;)

D.