Painting - painting trim - getting the line straight!

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12-21-00, 08:41 AM
I'm painting my walls a green color and the trim around all the doors, ceiling, crown molding will be white. What's the best method (aside from hiring a professional) to paint these two areas w/o getting green paint on the trim and vise versa? I've tried taping, but green paint leaks underneath and onto the molding. I've now resorted to a small artistic paint brush and I'm retouching the molding where green paint is. I'm not happy with it and I'm ready to re-tape or something and redo the sides of the molding that butt up against the walls. Suggestions?


12-21-00, 12:03 PM
Good tools are very important to doing a good job, for cutting in I like to use a sash brush, Purdy is my choice, useing the right type also, use a latex brush for latex and oil for oil. As far as free handing, it takes patience and practice. I have seen other DIYer's recomend that trim tool and say they work well, I have never used one, but it seems reasonable for someone having problems cutting in, I have seen them at Sherwin Williams (they don't carry Purdy brushes but they have fine brushes also) They also have little metal sheilds that you might try, just be sure to wipe them clean or they will leave tracks. Otherwise take your time, dip the brush, tap the bristles on side of can, start on the wall (about an inch from the trim) and work your way over to the trim, when reaching the trim take a steady stroke down, be sure to feather the paint out, don't leave any clumps.

Hope this helps, Happy Holidays! :)

PS - I have seen painters use tape, they make sure it is down solid, working fast, they quikly brush up to the tape and immediatly remove the tape before it has a chance to bleed under.

I have seen others put the tape down, caulk the edge to be sealed with a very small bead, then wiping all the caulk back off(thus sealing only the edge of the tape with a film to preventing bleeding) letting it dry, paint up against the tape and removing. When they did it, it worked very well, but remember to wipe all the caulk off with a wet rag before it dries. I personally free-hand it.



[Edited by Chipfo on 12-21-00 at 02:13]

BobF
12-22-00, 07:33 PM
A $10 or $12 sash brush may seem expensive, but consider how much time you've already spent and are going to spend. A good brush will hold more paint and release that paint to the surface better than a cheap brush.

Follow chips advice on tapping the side of the can. Also, don't paint from the can the paint came in. Get a paint pail. You'll catch the bristles on the lip of the paint can and bed them. Soon you'll have stray bristles spreading paint where you don't want it.

Lastly - paint with the tips of the brush. Too many DIYers paint with the sides of the brush. Its easier to control the line with the tips.