Walls and Ceilings - Taping and nail-hole mud

What consistency of mud should I use for taping and filling nail holes. Can I use all-purpose--the same as I would use to texture?

I would like to use the mesh tape because it is so much easier. Does this stuff hold up well in corners?

One more question. If I have a corner where the drywall for the 2 walls don't perfectly touch, can tape cover this? If so, how much of a gap can I hide and have it still look good?

Thanks in advance guys!

You mention spakling over nail hoils. ake sure the nails are driven in to where they bite in and then you could use the small containers they sell of the spackling compounds. They are the right consitency right out of the container.

As far as taping, I find paper a better joint material. others may disagree, but I find it easier to work with. People tend to shy away from paper because of air bubles. If you put a smooth coat down and then take the paper and make it slightly wet by running it under the sink for a second. The paper can't be soaking wet, just wet, then place the paper on the mudded joint and use your knife to tape it, you should not have air bubbles.

As far as the open joint, I find it best to seal these joints 1st. I'll run a my knife down the joint and force spackle into the joint and then finish it off so its flush with the surface. After this dries I then come back the next day and mud and tape the joint.Keep in mind I'm talking about spaces around 1/2". Gaps larger than this can't be taped up and look nice when done.

Major no-no for using mesh tape in corners!!!!!
When bedding the tape make the taping mud a little more wetter, less chances for air bubbles. I'm a carpenter, and I advise people to hire a taper. Most people don't have the finesse a pro has. They will do it twice as fast and have almost no sanding if their good. Its the finished product on the walls and you will notice the difference.

I've been in construction for many years and I find more and more tapers are switching to mesh tape on straight runs and butt joints and use paper on corners. The reason for mesh is that you can put on a smooth coat of mud and eliminate that first rough coat. Before taping anything, always prefill any large gaps with mud. Sheetrock 90 is a great allround mud. You can use this for prefilling and finish coats and its very sandable, but don't mix this up with durabond 90 which is not sandable at all. Like J974 says, theres nothing better than hiring a professional. You would't mud, seal and sand your new car and thats pretty well what it takes to get a fine job on your walls.

If you decide to use mesh tape, do not use all purpose joint compound. It shrinks too much, pulls the tape from the wall, and as it cracks (all joints do, that's why you use tape) the risk of the cracks telegraphing through the tape is too great to bother.

Mesh tape was made for the durabond hot muds that Hammer spoke of. They do not shrink, (but you can sand them if you are up to holding a floor sander against the wall with some 20 open). Although I won't/don't use mesh tape, many have success with the easy sand type muds. As a beginner, I would suggest you get comfortable with a 210 product so you won't feel quit so rushed in your taping and mudding.

Easy Sand 210--Your supplier will know what that means. If they don't, do yourself a favor and go somewhere else.

Don C.

I personally don't like the mesh tapes, they do not hold up as well as the paper for one reason, there is not enough mud under the tape, just what goes through the tiny holes, the mud is not forced into the joint of the rock therefor if the rock expands there is nothing to keep the joint in place resulting in the mesh tape buckling, it may take a while but I have seen it too many times, I rip out all the tape retape with the proper tape. Also if you have acces to architectural specs, they will require you to use the quik setting type joint compounds for the first bed. In my humble opinion, the mesh tape is best kept for durock and hardiboard and even then I apply the thinset before and after the mesh just for re-asurance.

Just my opinion :),

apparently Don C. hasn't used sheetrock 90 which is a very sandable mud, can be mixed to your own desired consistency, and shrinks very little. It's a good all round mud. The only setback is that you have to mix it yourself and it has to be used within 1 hour. Hope I've been of some help.

Hammer,

Got about 10 bags in the van att, along with 20 and 45. Not sure what you are responding to. The floor sander comment was an attempt at humor for sanding durabond. My suggestion for 210 was concerning working time and beginners. USG makes 3 bagged muds that I know of, the durabonds, the easy sands and no name standard bagged muds. Don C.