Water Heaters - Help to diagnose: hot water runs out quickly
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DavidT
11-03-09, 01:55 PM
Our electric hot water heater is running out of hot water way too quickly but was working fine until a few days ago. I'd like help on how to diagnose the cause of the problem.
At first it seemed like we had no hot water and when I went down to look at it I must have tapped on the upper of two metal plates on the side of it. Not sure if it was related but immediately after tapping it, it made a gurgling sound and we got hot water a while later. But still it runs out much more quickly than it used to or should.
At first it seemed like we had no hot water and when I went down to look at it I must have tapped on the upper of two metal plates on the side of it. Not sure if it was related but immediately after tapping it, it made a gurgling sound and we got hot water a while later. But still it runs out much more quickly than it used to or should.
594tough
11-03-09, 02:58 PM
It could be either of the thermostat, it could be either of the elements, or it could be the dip tube ( not likely unless it is 15 to 18 yrs old).
DavidT
11-08-09, 11:03 AM
Update:
Turns out the lower thermostat burned up, melted some plastic, fried a wire and the lower element appears to be dead (my test light shows no conductivity).
Not sure which caused which but in any case... what is the solution? Can the element be replaced? Is that cost effective? (I'd hire a plumber to replace element)
Turns out the lower thermostat burned up, melted some plastic, fried a wire and the lower element appears to be dead (my test light shows no conductivity).
Not sure which caused which but in any case... what is the solution? Can the element be replaced? Is that cost effective? (I'd hire a plumber to replace element)
lefty
11-08-09, 12:16 PM
Since the lower thermostat is melted and burned up, you KNOW that it is bad. As far as the lower element, you'll need an ohmeter, NOT A TEST LIGHT to learn whether it is good or bad.
With the power off, replace the lower thermostat and the burned wire. Disconnect the wires from the lower element and use the ohmeter across the screws to get a resistance reading. That should be about 15 ohms or so. Also check the resistance from one screw to the tank. That should be infinite.
If either of those readings are otherwise, replace the element. It's not that hard. With the power still off, drain the water from the WH. Unscrew the lower element and install a new one. The box store or hdwr. store where you get the new element will have an inexpensive element wrench.
Once the new element is in, fill the WH with water BEFORE you turn the power back on. Open a hot valve someplace in the house and wait until you have a solid stream of water through that valve before turning it off and turning the power back on.
With the power off, replace the lower thermostat and the burned wire. Disconnect the wires from the lower element and use the ohmeter across the screws to get a resistance reading. That should be about 15 ohms or so. Also check the resistance from one screw to the tank. That should be infinite.
If either of those readings are otherwise, replace the element. It's not that hard. With the power still off, drain the water from the WH. Unscrew the lower element and install a new one. The box store or hdwr. store where you get the new element will have an inexpensive element wrench.
Once the new element is in, fill the WH with water BEFORE you turn the power back on. Open a hot valve someplace in the house and wait until you have a solid stream of water through that valve before turning it off and turning the power back on.
DavidT
11-08-09, 02:24 PM
Thanks Lefty for your very helpful reply.
The test light I used was one that is "specially" designed for testing water heaters (according to the package) -- do you still say I need to use the ohm meter to test?
The test light I used was one that is "specially" designed for testing water heaters (according to the package) -- do you still say I need to use the ohm meter to test?