Solid Hardwood, Engineered and Laminate Flooring - Room at top of staircase
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mlevie
11-02-09, 11:27 AM
Thanks in advance for your help!
I'm going to put down engineered wood flooring in my living room, which is at the top of a staircase. I have two questions:
1) It makes sense to do the stairs first and work my way up to the room, but then should I install the stair nosing on the top step first, let it dry and then use that as the starting point for installing the floor in the room? The only other way I see is to install from the other side of the room, rip the last board and biscuit join it to the stair nose on the top step, which I'm concerned might not look very good.
2) If I float the floor, I'll have to shim the nose on the top step a few millimeters to account for the acoustic underlayment. Will this cause people to trip on the top step? How can I fix this?
I'm going to put down engineered wood flooring in my living room, which is at the top of a staircase. I have two questions:
1) It makes sense to do the stairs first and work my way up to the room, but then should I install the stair nosing on the top step first, let it dry and then use that as the starting point for installing the floor in the room? The only other way I see is to install from the other side of the room, rip the last board and biscuit join it to the stair nose on the top step, which I'm concerned might not look very good.
2) If I float the floor, I'll have to shim the nose on the top step a few millimeters to account for the acoustic underlayment. Will this cause people to trip on the top step? How can I fix this?
tn.floorguy
11-02-09, 12:16 PM
If you're floating the floor, check with the manufacturer. You don't want to use a regular flush-mount stairnose.They should offer a stairnose designed for floating installations....it will lipover the flooring to leave an expansion gap. Floating floors have been installed in this fashion for years, and the slight raise at the nose shouldn't cause an issue.
mlevie
11-02-09, 05:52 PM
Thanks floorguy!
BR111 doesn't make an overlap stair nose. The place I bought the floor suggests gluing down just the nose and then attaching it to the floating floor.
Does that sound like a horrible idea?
BR111 doesn't make an overlap stair nose. The place I bought the floor suggests gluing down just the nose and then attaching it to the floating floor.
Does that sound like a horrible idea?
tn.floorguy
11-03-09, 06:21 AM
In a word....yes. If you glue down the stairnose, then attach it to the floating floor, guess what? Your floating floor isn't floating anymore! Not in that spot...you may not ever have a problem, but don't be surpised if you end up with gapping or buckling.
I would contact BR-111 and speak to someone in their technical department to see what their recommendation is and if they will cover any issues that arise when floating their floor, seeing as they don't offer the lipover moldings.
BR-111 -- (800) 525-2711
I would contact BR-111 and speak to someone in their technical department to see what their recommendation is and if they will cover any issues that arise when floating their floor, seeing as they don't offer the lipover moldings.
BR-111 -- (800) 525-2711
mlevie
11-19-09, 10:34 AM
Well, I called BR111 and they said their advice is to glue just the stair nose. So I'm considering stapling the floor instead.
A related question: ordinarily I'd start the floor against the outside wall, which is the opposite end of the room from the staircase.
But then when I get to the top of the stairs, how do I get the last course to fit with the stair nose? If I rip it there won't be a tongue to fit with the groove on the nose...and what if that last board turns out to be half as wide as the rest of the flooring? Won't that look bizarre?
A related question: ordinarily I'd start the floor against the outside wall, which is the opposite end of the room from the staircase.
But then when I get to the top of the stairs, how do I get the last course to fit with the stair nose? If I rip it there won't be a tongue to fit with the groove on the nose...and what if that last board turns out to be half as wide as the rest of the flooring? Won't that look bizarre?