Painting - Paint new cabinets
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Lewisjl
11-02-09, 10:47 AM
I am having new cutom kitchen cabinets built and my job is to paint the island cabinets and stain the base/wall cabinets.
Can you tell me the steps to follow for painting as well as staining cabinets? Also the tools/materials to use(types of paint/stain, rollers, brushes, spray gun, sanding etc.)? Thank you for your time!
:wall:
Can you tell me the steps to follow for painting as well as staining cabinets? Also the tools/materials to use(types of paint/stain, rollers, brushes, spray gun, sanding etc.)? Thank you for your time!
:wall:
marksr
11-02-09, 04:03 PM
Welcome to the forums!
Before you start with the staining, inspect the wood and sand off any glue or finger prints. Denatured alcohol will usually remove finger prints and ink stamps. Always sand with the direction of the grain!! Cross sanding will leave unsightly scratches that will really show once stained :eek:
Stain can be applied by spray or brush but it should have all the excess stain wiped off within a few minutes. You can also apply the stain with a rag but I'm not fond of doing it that way. You also need to apply varnish or poly. An oil base poly will wear best. If you apply by spray, the poly can be applied shortly after you are done with the stain. If you brush the poly you need to wait 12-24 hrs for the stain to dry. If you brush the poly on too soon, it can rewet and move the stain around. It's best to apply 3 coats of poly, sanding lightly between coats.
A cup gun or a HVLP set up works best for spraying stain and/or poly. The poly may require a little thinning for it to atomize properly. If brushing use a natural bristle brush.
For painting you want to start with a good enamel undercoater. IMO an oil base undercoater is best but there are some decent latex enamel undercoaters available. There are 3 basic types of enamel that can be used for the finish. Oil base enamel dries to the hardest film = best wear but whites and light colors will yellow as they age. I like the waterborne enamels, they dry almost as hard as oil base, dry fast and don't yellow. Waterborne is the most expensive. Latex enamel is the cheapest but they don't dry to a hard film so they can't take as much abuse as the others.
The primer and paint can be applied by either brush or brush and roller. Some will opt to apply the paint with a roller and then 'tip it off' with a brush to get rid of the roller stipple. 1 coat of primer, sand and dust, followed by 2 coats of enamel. While a cup gun or HVLP will do ok with oil base coatings, waterborne and latex are best sprayed using an airless. I wouldn't recomend using an airless for anyone without spraying experience.
As always you will find the best coatings [advice and tools too] at your local paint store, not a big box paint dept.
Before you start with the staining, inspect the wood and sand off any glue or finger prints. Denatured alcohol will usually remove finger prints and ink stamps. Always sand with the direction of the grain!! Cross sanding will leave unsightly scratches that will really show once stained :eek:
Stain can be applied by spray or brush but it should have all the excess stain wiped off within a few minutes. You can also apply the stain with a rag but I'm not fond of doing it that way. You also need to apply varnish or poly. An oil base poly will wear best. If you apply by spray, the poly can be applied shortly after you are done with the stain. If you brush the poly you need to wait 12-24 hrs for the stain to dry. If you brush the poly on too soon, it can rewet and move the stain around. It's best to apply 3 coats of poly, sanding lightly between coats.
A cup gun or a HVLP set up works best for spraying stain and/or poly. The poly may require a little thinning for it to atomize properly. If brushing use a natural bristle brush.
For painting you want to start with a good enamel undercoater. IMO an oil base undercoater is best but there are some decent latex enamel undercoaters available. There are 3 basic types of enamel that can be used for the finish. Oil base enamel dries to the hardest film = best wear but whites and light colors will yellow as they age. I like the waterborne enamels, they dry almost as hard as oil base, dry fast and don't yellow. Waterborne is the most expensive. Latex enamel is the cheapest but they don't dry to a hard film so they can't take as much abuse as the others.
The primer and paint can be applied by either brush or brush and roller. Some will opt to apply the paint with a roller and then 'tip it off' with a brush to get rid of the roller stipple. 1 coat of primer, sand and dust, followed by 2 coats of enamel. While a cup gun or HVLP will do ok with oil base coatings, waterborne and latex are best sprayed using an airless. I wouldn't recomend using an airless for anyone without spraying experience.
As always you will find the best coatings [advice and tools too] at your local paint store, not a big box paint dept.