Fences and Gates - Purchase Pickets

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View Full Version : Purchase Pickets


aussie okie
11-02-09, 09:25 AM
Does anyone know where I can purchase 1"x4"x48" wooden pickets?
Either gothic or 'spike' type?

Lowes only has pre-made panels @ 42".

I need about 500.

I am in Oklahoma but could get them shipped if near by.

thanks


GregsFence
11-02-09, 06:46 PM
I am not familiar with your neck of the woods, but I have to ask .... Do you have any fence manufactures in the neighborhood? I would suggest the yellow pages to find a wholesaler. If you are purchasing pickets and building the sections the whole project may not be cost effective. It is very possible that a wholesaler who builds what they sell could push out an order of that size in half a day.

Sorry I am sure I was of no real help.. Good luck

aussie okie
11-03-09, 07:10 AM
I am not familiar with your neck of the woods, but I have to ask .... Do you have any fence manufactures in the neighborhood? I would suggest the yellow pages to find a wholesaler. If you are purchasing pickets and building the sections the whole project may not be cost effective. It is very possible that a wholesaler who builds what they sell could push out an order of that size in half a day.

Sorry I am sure I was of no real help.. Good luck

Thanks...
No we don't have any around us, I have searched everywhere, even the Internet for someone who makes/ships pickets.
The reason I want to build the sections is that my post centers are not exactly the same and I wish to put the pickets inside the posts, so a pre-made section would not work.

thanks anyway
Paul


GregsFence
11-03-09, 08:38 AM
I apologize. I did not know that you had posts already set in the ground.

In that case I have something else to add.,,, something that may help if you choose to go in another direction.

In more than one occasion on more than one job in the past I have had to join sections of wood fencing together so that they can reach the posts that have already been set and used and reused over the years. Some of these posts were steel posts that were left over from chain link fences and some of these posts were simply cedar posts that were left over from older designed odd spaced stockade fences. In this case I have joined the sections together with either steel plates or 24 inch short pieces of 2x3 or 2 x 4 wood rails to match whatever the back rail of the new fence is.
If using the steel plate , simply butt up the back rails ... using screws place the plate over one end of the back rail allowing a few inches to overlap the end of the rail covering the next section of wood. Screw in that portion of the plate onto the other section. Then you would have 16 feet long section no doubt being able to take on the span of posts.
If using wood back rails all you need do is place the 24 inch shorts and lay them under the back rails of the new sections. Screw through the face of the pickets into the back rail. then attach one side of the fence onto the post. Then attach the adjoining section to the 2 or 3 back rails that are overhanging past the sections of wood.
screw in and continue on down the line. Attaching to the posts and attaching your new 24 inch shorts as you go. Its easy and it is a sturdy job if you use enough screws.

I suggest putting the shorts on the bottom side of the backs of the sections so that when going from one section onto the other you can litterally hang the new adjoining section onto the overlapping rails. This makes it easier to work alone if need be. At the same time instead of giving the section a chance of dropping down because of its own weight the back rails would hold the weight and balance of the adjoining sections. This works, and this a clean job. From the good side of the fence you would never even see this method as being any different than a normal every day installation. From the back side of the fence you would not see much difference as long as the installation is done clean and tight to the bottoms of the existing rails. If the use of the steel plates are used you would not see anything except the steel plates joining the sections.... And those steel plates can be painted to match the color of the wood if you choose to make them blend. But if you do not plan to stain your fence a color simply leave the plates as they are. Galvanized plates have that silver color in them already and an unstained wood fence will turn a silver to a gray color in about 1-3 yrs time. Of course that time frame varies depending on the amount of sun exposure your fence would get.

If you would rather contact a wholesaler that would distribute to your area I will check the books... Maybe I can find someone who delivers out your way.

I hope this idea works for you

Gregs Fence~

aussie okie
11-03-09, 08:58 AM
I apologize. I did not know that you had posts already set in the ground.

In that case I have something else to add.,,, something that may help if you choose to go in another direction.

In more than one occasion on more than one job in the past I have had to join sections of wood fencing together so that they can reach the posts that have already been set and used and reused over the years. Some of these posts were steel posts that were left over from chain link fences and some of these posts were simply cedar posts that were left over from older designed odd spaced stockade fences. In this case I have joined the sections together with either steel plates or 24 inch short pieces of 2x3 or 2 x 4 wood rails to match whatever the back rail of the new fence is.
If using the steel plate , simply butt up the back rails ... using screws place the plate over one end of the back rail allowing a few inches to overlap the end of the rail covering the next section of wood. Screw in that portion of the plate onto the other section. Then you would have 16 feet long section no doubt being able to take on the span of posts.
If using wood back rails all you need do is place the 24 inch shorts and lay them under the back rails of the new sections. Screw through the face of the pickets into the back rail. then attach one side of the fence onto the post. Then attach the adjoining section to the 2 or 3 back rails that are overhanging past the sections of wood.
screw in and continue on down the line. Attaching to the posts and attaching your new 24 inch shorts as you go. Its easy and it is a sturdy job if you use enough screws.

I suggest putting the shorts on the bottom side of the backs of the sections so that when going from one section onto the other you can litterally hang the new adjoining section onto the overlapping rails. This makes it easier to work alone if need be. At the same time instead of giving the section a chance of dropping down because of its own weight the back rails would hold the weight and balance of the adjoining sections. This works, and this a clean job. From the good side of the fence you would never even see this method as being any different than a normal every day installation. From the back side of the fence you would not see much difference as long as the installation is done clean and tight to the bottoms of the existing rails. If the use of the steel plates are used you would not see anything except the steel plates joining the sections.... And those steel plates can be painted to match the color of the wood if you choose to make them blend. But if you do not plan to stain your fence a color simply leave the plates as they are. Galvanized plates have that silver color in them already and an unstained wood fence will turn a silver to a gray color in about 1-3 yrs time. Of course that time frame varies depending on the amount of sun exposure your fence would get.

If you would rather contact a wholesaler that would distribute to your area I will check the books... Maybe I can find someone who delivers out your way.

I hope this idea works for you

Gregs Fence~

Thanks for that info, that may be how I'll have to go if I can't find loose pickets.
Could you look and see if you know anybody down this way that has pickets, I would appreciate it, I 'm going nuts trying to find these?