Gas and Oil Home Heating Furnaces - Furnace gas valve replacement
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exppii
10-29-09, 08:08 PM
Hi!
My Westinghouse gas furnace has been disconnected by the gas company because it wouldn't shut off the gas when the pilot light was out. I think I need to replace the gas valve.
Furnace details:
Model FGBE137MA
Series NIBE
Serial M38778
The gas valve has a serial number of V8146A 1017, and though I can find a (vintage) V8146A 1033 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190218765290) for sale, I can't find mine.
Input BTU/hr: 137,500
Photos. (http://picasaweb.google.com/alexej/20090824#)
The PG&E guy said that the valve should be replaced by one with a rating of within 5% of 137500. I've been looking and I've come up with these two:
VR8300 (http://www.air-n-water.com/product/VR8300A3518.html)
VR8200 (http://www.honeywell-thermostat.com/honeywell/gas-valve-VR8200A2132.htm)
The first one seems better because I do have a 12" input and a 3/4" output (by my reckoning) but it's 190000 BTU/hr which is significantly more. The second one has a 130000 BTU/hr which is just about 5% less than my furnace is rated for, but it has a 1/2" output and so I guess I'd need an adapter.
Which one is better, or would you recommend another one entirely?
Thanks in advance.
My Westinghouse gas furnace has been disconnected by the gas company because it wouldn't shut off the gas when the pilot light was out. I think I need to replace the gas valve.
Furnace details:
Model FGBE137MA
Series NIBE
Serial M38778
The gas valve has a serial number of V8146A 1017, and though I can find a (vintage) V8146A 1033 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190218765290) for sale, I can't find mine.
Input BTU/hr: 137,500
Photos. (http://picasaweb.google.com/alexej/20090824#)
The PG&E guy said that the valve should be replaced by one with a rating of within 5% of 137500. I've been looking and I've come up with these two:
VR8300 (http://www.air-n-water.com/product/VR8300A3518.html)
VR8200 (http://www.honeywell-thermostat.com/honeywell/gas-valve-VR8200A2132.htm)
The first one seems better because I do have a 12" input and a 3/4" output (by my reckoning) but it's 190000 BTU/hr which is significantly more. The second one has a 130000 BTU/hr which is just about 5% less than my furnace is rated for, but it has a 1/2" output and so I guess I'd need an adapter.
Which one is better, or would you recommend another one entirely?
Thanks in advance.
SeattlePioneer
10-29-09, 08:13 PM
Replacing a gas valve is best left to a service agency that knows what they are doing.
You don't have the skill and judgment to do the job.
Sorry.
You don't have the skill and judgment to do the job.
Sorry.
exppii
10-29-09, 08:19 PM
Replacing a gas valve is best left to a service agency that knows what they are doing.
You don't have the skill and judgment to do the job.
Sorry.
I'm not planning to do the replacement myself. I had a guy come out but he was more interested in replacing the furnace than fixing it, and he said he'd 'look for' the replacement part but I don't think he's going to. He'll install it, but I said I'd find and buy the part.
You don't have the skill and judgment to do the job.
Sorry.
I'm not planning to do the replacement myself. I had a guy come out but he was more interested in replacing the furnace than fixing it, and he said he'd 'look for' the replacement part but I don't think he's going to. He'll install it, but I said I'd find and buy the part.
Grady
10-29-09, 08:30 PM
I searched Honeywell's site for a replacement for your V8146A-1017 valve. They suggest a V800A-1070.
exppii
10-29-09, 08:52 PM
I searched Honeywell's site for a replacement for your V8146A-1017 valve. They suggest a V800A-1070.
Thank you! That's a good recommendation. I was on that site earlier but wasn't able to find that.
Thank you! That's a good recommendation. I was on that site earlier but wasn't able to find that.
SeattlePioneer
10-29-09, 11:30 PM
Hi!
The PG&E guy said that the valve should be replaced by one with a rating of within 5% of 137500. I've been looking and I've come up with these two:
I'm surprised the PG&E guy is such a schlub.
You need a gas valve that has a greater capacity to pass gas than the BTU input for your furnace (presumably the 137500 you mention).
The gas input to the match your furnace is adjusted with a pressure regulator built into the gas valve. Correctly adjusting the burner input is one of several reasons why replacing a gas valve is not a good DIY job.
The PG&E guy said that the valve should be replaced by one with a rating of within 5% of 137500. I've been looking and I've come up with these two:
I'm surprised the PG&E guy is such a schlub.
You need a gas valve that has a greater capacity to pass gas than the BTU input for your furnace (presumably the 137500 you mention).
The gas input to the match your furnace is adjusted with a pressure regulator built into the gas valve. Correctly adjusting the burner input is one of several reasons why replacing a gas valve is not a good DIY job.
ecman51`
10-30-09, 08:30 AM
Hi!
My Westinghouse gas furnace has been disconnected by the gas company because it wouldn't shut off the gas when the pilot light was out. I think I need to replace the gas valve.
What was the symptom that this was found out?
Does this furnace only have a thermocouple or flame sensor at the pilot?, Or is there also one for the burners?
My Westinghouse gas furnace has been disconnected by the gas company because it wouldn't shut off the gas when the pilot light was out. I think I need to replace the gas valve.
What was the symptom that this was found out?
Does this furnace only have a thermocouple or flame sensor at the pilot?, Or is there also one for the burners?