Fences and Gates - Gate Posts

Hi...I'm putting up a 6 ft. wood priv. fence around my yard. I plan on having a 8' wide double gate on one side of my backyard. Can I go ahead and use the 4 X 4's for the two 4ft. wide gate sections or do they HAVE to have the 6 x 6 posts to not sag over time. ? I know if it was gonna be a 10' gate it would need the 6x6's. Thanks for your help !!

4X4's will work, though I would probably use 4X6's, oriented so that the 6" face is parallel with the gates. (Of course, I would not be using wood posts in the first place, but you didn't ask that!) And if there is stationary fence on each side of the gates you can put in cable and turnbuckles diagonally from the top of the gate post to the bottom of the post of the stationary panel as well.

:coffee:Thanks... I am using treated wood for the fence. Most of the wood fences I see have the 4x4 posts on the small gate, just wondered since my double gate is just 8' could I use the 4x4's for it also.

I also agree that using a 4x4 would work fine.
If I were to upgrade the size of the post at all I would suggest going up to 6x6. Doing so would give you more opportunities for finding a custom post cap to fit. If you do not have post caps throughout the fence line just adding a pair of custom caps on the gate openinings alone would be a really nice touch.
You would see, it does increase the curb appeal of your fence, landscaping and home quite a bit.

Good Luck

Gregs Fence~

:DThanks for the replys..... I purchased the two 6x6's, just thought they may be over kill for a 8ft wide double gate opening....... and the 2 of them was $41 !!....Another rookie question.... do I set the 6x's EXACTLY 8ft. apart for the opening?? (I'm using 1x6 dog eared pickets)

The use of 1x6 dogear picket would give the size of the picket but it would not give me any idea of the spacing that the manufacturer would put between those pickets. Each section being just a little bit different could be the difference of as much as 1/2 of an inch.

I would pull away one full section of material. I would determind the cut of center and then measure each side tight to the ends of the back rails . I would then add about 3/4 of an inch for each hinge side. I would also add on about 1/2 inch for the latch side of only one of the panels. A total of 2 inches added onto the amount of wood panels. You can go slightly smaller than that space if you choose to have less of a gap on the hinge sides of the gates to the posts. But I would typically give it that 3/4 inch spacing as said.

If you are purchasing a custom cap for that 6 x 6 post, I would definitely use that post to give the gate opening a majestic look. Raise that post between 3 or 6 inches higher than the top of the pickets. Then cap it. The difference in the heights that I am allowing is the difference in the depth of the caps insides. Some custom caps will absorb about 2 inches of a post in the details of the routed edges and such... But the gate posts always look a lot better if they define the gate openings.
If you do not wish to use a custom cap you can just route the edges of the post to give it a dog ear look. Doing so would costs considerably less than a custom post cap.

But if you do not want to have your gate opening highlighted at all, please consider having your gate post set slightly higher than the other posts. This would allow you to use T hinges if you choose to have your gates swinging into the yard.

Good Luck...

Gregs Fence~

The use of 1x6 dogear picket would give the size of the picket but it would not give me any idea of the spacing that the manufacturer would put between those pickets. Each section being just a little bit different could be the difference of as much as 1/2 of an inch.

I would pull away one full section of material. I would determind the cut of center and then measure each side tight to the ends of the back rails . I would then add about 3/4 of an inch for each hinge side. I would also add on about 1/2 inch for the latch side of only one of the panels. A total of 2 inches added onto the amount of wood panels. You can go slightly smaller than that space if you choose to have less of a gap on the hinge sides of the gates to the posts. But I would typically give it that 3/4 inch spacing as said.

If you are purchasing a custom cap for that 6 x 6 post, I would definitely use that post to give the gate opening a majestic look. Raise that post between 3 or 6 inches higher than the top of the pickets. Then cap it. The difference in the heights that I am allowing is the difference in the depth of the caps insides. Some custom caps will absorb about 2 inches of a post in the details of the routed edges and such... But the gate posts always look a lot better if they define the gate openings.
If you do not wish to use a custom cap you can just route the edges of the post to give it a dog ear look. Doing so would costs considerably less than a custom post cap.

But if you do not want to have your gate opening highlighted at all, please consider having your gate post set slightly higher than the other posts. This would allow you to use T hinges if you choose to have your gates swinging into the yard.

Good Luck...

Gregs Fence~

Thanks for your reply!!!! Its an "L" shape fence. Neighbor already has a fence across the back. I've got one whole side up(less pickets) only lacking setting the two 6x's to set. I plan on having a 1" gap between all the pickets. (for wind) Not sure I comp. understand your first two sentences in the second paragraph. That said, will it be OK to go ahead and set the gate posts exactly 8ft. apart finish hanging the 2x4's that will extend to my house.(bottom of "L" ) Come back and build the two 4ft. gate sections ? Dont want to sink those puppies in concrete only to have to take them out! Thanks !!!

Ok , so now an added piece of information ... You are not only putting up a fence, you are stick building it yourself ? Correct?

If that is the case I would suggest building 2 gates. If you plan to have an 8 foot opening, go ahead and build your gates to suit.
One gate after being put together with all the pickets may be more than 4 feet in width. Just the simple fact that you plan on spacing the pickets on the surrounding fence 1 inch apart... doing some preliminary math I would see one gate either being a total of 8 pickets, spaced by 1 inch and each picket having a true size of 5 -1/2 inches in width coming to a total width of a gate being 4'-3" in width or it being one picket less and the one gate panel would then be 6 -1/2" 's less.

What I was trying to say in the first post was that first you should determine the width of your gate by building the gate. Then you should add on for the spaces between the hinge sides and the latch space... and then whatever measurement you have is what you should set your posts with.

Or if you choose, you can always just set the gate posts at whatever spacing you wish. Building the gate to suit the space. Doing so you would probably have to rip a picket down less than its 6" width. And doing so you may end up ripping it down to as little as an inch wide. A very noticable picket it would be.
It can be done, but if you are the one who is building the gates from scratch, you may as well go the distance and make everything uniform.

Best of luck

Gregs Fence~

Ok , so now an added piece of information ... You are not only putting up a fence, you are stick building it yourself ? Correct?

If that is the case I would suggest building 2 gates. If you plan to have an 8 foot opening, go ahead and build your gates to suit.
One gate after being put together with all the pickets may be more than 4 feet in width. Just the simple fact that you plan on spacing the pickets on the surrounding fence 1 inch apart... doing some preliminary math I would see one gate either being a total of 8 pickets, spaced by 1 inch and each picket having a true size of 5 -1/2 inches in width coming to a total width of a gate being 4'-3" in width or it being one picket less and the one gate panel would then be 6 -1/2" 's less.

What I was trying to say in the first post was that first you should determine the width of your gate by building the gate. Then you should add on for the spaces between the hinge sides and the latch space... and then whatever measurement you have is what you should set your posts with.

Or if you choose, you can always just set the gate posts at whatever spacing you wish. Building the gate to suit the space. Doing so you would probably have to rip a picket down less than its 6" width. And doing so you may end up ripping it down to as little as an inch wide. A very noticable picket it would be.
It can be done, but if you are the one who is building the gates from scratch, you may as well go the distance and make everything uniform.

Best of luck

Gregs Fence~
:D GF thanks again!! Yes, I am stick building the fence myself (with a little help)...as I understand...I can either set the gate posts and build the gate to fit the opening... OR ....I can build the gate first and then set the 6x posts to fit the width of new gate? The latter being easier to get uniform pickets across it..... That sounds like what I need to do, since I am a rookie!! Yes, I plan to have a 48" walk through gate on the other side of the house just big enough to get my riding mower through. The double gate will be used very little. I may holler at you some more as I progress with this project. Again appreciate your help!!

:wall: It has been a wet year here. We have had record setting rain for Oct. As I dig down to the 24 inch mark for the fence post it is really wet (mud)!! Left to stand, about 4 or 5 inches of water will fill back in the bottom and stay there. I assume, I should wait till that does not happen before I put any concrete and poles in these holes? Thanks

Do you folks typically freeze up for the winter months ? I mean cold to the point of having a frost line deeper than maybe the surface coat?

If not, you would not have as much issue with the post ever being heaved up from frost. And that being the case, I am sure there would be differences of opinion on this, but a few inches of water should not stop you in the slightest way. It happens all the time. Ground water being at 24 inches is common regardless of the rain fall and the area.
Cement cures in water. Do not make a sloppy mix... make it firm. Not dry, but not like soup. Put it in the hole, level the post, maybe even support it by propping it up. Walk away, come back the next day. It will be fine.

If you would like, you can always back fill the hole with some gravel. If water is always an issue in your parts, putting about 6 inches of gravel at the base of the hole will keep the base of your post from sitting in standing water. But even then, a 6 x 6 pressure treated post will endure years of water contact before having any issues.

I hope this helps...

Gregs Fence~

:thumbup:Thanks GF.... I live in central Arkansas so no freeze problems. I'm using Quikrete in 60 an 80lb bags for the posts. This run of fence is between me and my neighbor's yard. The water run off is right between us. So any big rains, it is this area that gets the most water and always stays wet the longest. I will put some gravel as you suggest and continue with the project. The other side of my yard is higher elevated and I have it up (minus the pickets). So far, looks pretty good for a rookie !!! Thanks again!!!!!!