Solid Hardwood, Engineered and Laminate Flooring - v notch pine paneling as floor?

I've been thinking about putting a wide plank pine floor in my cabin in NH. Looking at the wide plank flooring companies, their stuff is VERY expensive.

Recently I was at the local lumber yard near the cabin and saw that they have 10" V notch tongue and groove pine panelling that when flipped over is a flush tongue and groove and looks like it would make a perfect floor. It is 3/4" thick and The price of this stuff was $1.05/LF compared to $7 to $9 / SF for the flooring from the wide plank company.

Is their stuff that much better to warrant that much difference in price?

I know I am missing something?

Yep. There's a big difference between Linear feet and Square feet. But just to ward you off, the bead board panels are too soft for flooring. They are usually fir. If they are southern yellow pine, then they may be strong enough surface wise. But dealing with the grooves will be a bear! I looked at my local salvage lumber yard recently and found 3" wide Ironwood for $2/sf. Great deal. I only needed 300 sf to finish my cabin, but waited too long to go back and get it. My loss.
Try salvage lumber yards for flooring. You can come up with good alternatives at a reasonable price.

Thanks Chandler,

The panelling is Eastern White Pine, the same as the Carlisle floor that I'm looking at. Are there different types of Eastern white pine?
I'm not sure I understand why dealing with the grooves would be a bear? the panels are completely flat on the back with no grooves and sanded smooth. The edge is not eased at all. The front side has the edges beveled at 45 degrees (no beads). They are 1x10, so true dimensions are 3/4 x 9 1/2 less about 3/8" for the tongue would leave a 9" face.

At about $1/LF that would be approx $1.35/ square foot. compared to $7 to $9 per SF for the Carlisle floor depending on width of the boards you choose from them. To be clear the Carlisle Eastern White Pine floor is "sustainably harvested in the cold climates of Maine, Vermont and New Hampshire". So NOT old growth/Antique boards.

This is a cabin, and I think any Pine floor is going to be soft and show signs of wear or "patina" over time which I am expecting. I plan to use Waterlox Satin to finish whatever floor I wind up going with.
Do you still think there is a big enough difference?
Thanks for your help!

OK, I thought you were using the standard T&G used on walls. If you have a flat surface and you are willing to deal with the cuts and scratches (patina as you call it), then this type flooring would be excellent. Bear in mind that it isn't as hard as the higher priced flooring, but it probably won't matter in a cabin situation. The only other problem I could see would be cupping on such a wide board. Do you have plans on face nailing anywhere in the middle of the board? Just an observation.

A couple of years ago we rented a cabin in the smokies. I don't remember what was on the 1st floor but the 2nd floor [bed rms] had 1x6 T&G pine that doubled both as the floor and the exposed ceiling from above. [no sub floor] Everyone thought it looked nice although my wife said I was the only one that would notice the scars in the floor and the occasional gap that allowed light to show thru.

Personally I would be leary of using a soft wood for flooring but if the cabin isn't used year round.......

thanks, I hadnt thought about face nailing. I know it is done on some rustic floors. but I'd prefer not to myself.

I've heard that some people will actually beat on the floor with chains and screws etc to 'antique' the floor prior to staining. I'd consider doing this as well.

check out the carlisle website at Hit or Miss Eastern White Pine Dining Room — Carlisle Wide Plank Floors (http://www.wideplankflooring.com/browse-our-floors/detail/eastern-white-pine-dining-room-1-lake-oswego-or/)
and click "more of this wood type" to get a sense of what I'm going for.

thx